What's the best way to install a new tire tube ?

It's three step process.
Wheel on the inside.
Tube in between.
Tire (tyre) on the outside.
Use a new tube and tire, which are relatively cheap. Not worth
buggering about with old stuff and "fix a flat".
Haven't tried Daryll's inhalation technique.
The UF/ZZ technique is good. On most gliders it's easy with a split
wheel.
Jim

At 06:55 08 March 2009, JS wrote:
It's three step process.
Wheel on the inside.
Tube in between.
Tire (tyre) on the outside.
Use a new tube and tire, which are relatively cheap. Not worth
buggering about with old stuff and "fix a flat".
Haven't tried Daryll's inhalation technique.
The UF/ZZ technique is good. On most gliders it's easy with a split
wheel.
Jim

The easiest way to split a wheel is to use air pressure. Undo the bolts
then inflate the inner tube, this provides even pressure round the wheel
and splits it.

And if you haven't gotten all the way through the process yet, here are a
couple of other things to check.

Once you get the assembly out of the glider, the wheel halves seperated
(if you do use air pressure, don't have the nuts loosened very much. A
turn or so should do. You don't want the thing to get a running start.)
and the wheel halves seperated from the tire, you should do some checking.
Fill the tube with some air, and put it under water. See where it it
bubbling. If it is from the valve core, replace the valve core. They are
cheap, and will leak sometimes.

If the leak is from some other part of the tube, and you are going to
re-use your tire, check and see that the thorn that made the hole is no
longer there. No point in putting a new tube in so it can get a hole in
the same place! You will also note that the manufacturers generally say
to always replace the tire and tube as a set.

Take the new tube, inflate it and hold it under water. Wouldn't want to
put a leaking tube (again, valve cores are ofen the culprit) into the
plane. This just adds further frustration. If you haven't already, buy
some valve cores and an extraction tool from your local auto parts store.
This won't even set you back 10 bucks, stores in less space than a cell
phone, and is well worth every penny to have the spares around.

I get all the air I can out of the tube before putting it in the tire, but
then inflate it some before putting the wheel back together. MUCH less
likely to pinch the tube when you do that. Some plain old baby powder
inside the tire isn't a bad idea. Or, the little bag of Tire Talc you
may get from Desser (or your favorite glider tire supplier) when you buy
tires or tubes from them.

The hardest part of the process is getting the brake to work again after
you change the tire (I always seem to have troubles getting the arm back
on the splines where it was before I took it off).

Steve Leonard
Wichita, KS

On Mar 8, 9:45*am, Steve Leonard wrote:
And if you haven't gotten all the way through the process yet, here are a
couple of other things to check.

Once you get the assembly out of the glider, the wheel halves seperated
(if you do use air pressure, don't have the nuts loosened very much. *A
turn or so should do. *You don't want the thing to get a running start.)
and the wheel halves seperated from the tire, you should do some checking..
*Fill the tube with some air, and put it under water. *See where it it
bubbling. *If it is from the valve core, replace the valve core. *They are
cheap, and will leak sometimes.

If the leak is from some other part of the tube, and you are going to
re-use your tire, check and see that the thorn that made the hole is no
longer there. *No point in putting a new tube in so it can get a hole in
the same place! *You will also note that the manufacturers generally say
to always replace the tire and tube as a set. *

Take the new tube, inflate it and hold it under water. *Wouldn't want to
put a leaking tube (again, valve cores are ofen the culprit) into the
plane. *This just adds further frustration. *If you haven't already, buy
some valve cores and an extraction tool from your local auto parts store.
This won't even set you back 10 bucks, stores in less space than a cell
phone, and is well worth every penny to have the spares around.

I get all the air I can out of the tube before putting it in the tire, but
then inflate it some before putting the wheel back together. *MUCH less
likely to pinch the tube when you do that. *Some plain old baby powder
inside the tire isn't a bad idea. *Or, the little bag of Tire Talc you
may get from Desser (or your favorite glider tire supplier) when you buy
tires or tubes from them.

The hardest part of the process is getting the brake to work again after
you change the tire (I always seem to have troubles getting the arm back
on the splines where it was before I took it off).

Steve Leonard
Wichita, KS

Good stuff.

And just in case somebody has done you a "favor" by putting a plastic
valve cap on the tube replace it with a metal one. New tubes should
come with then or many tire places have them. A real metal one with o-
ring seal. The cheap crap plastic ones many car tires come with leak
and can crack in non-obvious ways especially if overtightened. Not
only do they keep dust out but a good one will stop a valve leak (and
if not that then certainty) a sudden failure of the valve (yes
unlikely, but...).

Darryl

And,

An easy way to check the valve core is to put a little spit on it
(while it is still in the valve stem and on the tire that is full of
air) and see if bubbles form. If not, there's probably not a leak.
If bubbles are forming, then, the valve is leaking.

Ray Lovinggood
Carrboro, North Carolina, USA