Favorite technique for removing rusted screws??

After you do all these things to the head, you will have enough torque
to twist the head off!
Then you will need the extractors.

I've found you can use the dremel tool to make a square like head on
the screw then take it
out with a vice grip.

Bill Hale


wrote:
I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
well.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1

(copy and paste the address if it is too long)

I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
work well?

Regards,
Bud

Michael Horowitz wrote:
I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
rusted screws? - Mike

Had a Cessna 172 come into Emergency Aircraft Repair at Oshkosh with a
damaged spinner. The lady pilot want it removed so pieces didn't fly off
during the flight back home.

Unfortunately, the spinner hadn't been removed in many years. The Screws
were rusted tight. Used all of the techniques that have been listed and
failed to remove a single screw. It looked hopeless as all the slots got
rounded out.

I got out a sharp cold chisel and after getting a good bite on the side of
the screw head, angled the chisel to rotate the screw. Took about a minute a
screw to get them started to have them protrude enough to grab with vice
grips and spin them the rest of the way out.

Lady pilot was a little perturbed when I said that the spinner should have
been removed at every annual time by the mechanic so as to check the prop
bolts. Her response was..."I'll tell that to my husband, the IA.! LOL

--
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A 45 Year Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot

" wrote in message
ps.com...
After you do all these things to the head, you will have enough torque
to twist the head off!
Then you will need the extractors.

I've found you can use the dremel tool to make a square like head on
the screw then take it
out with a vice grip.

Bill Hale


wrote:
I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
well.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1

(copy and paste the address if it is too long)

I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
work well?

Regards,
Bud

Michael Horowitz wrote:
I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
rusted screws? - Mike

I've never encountered a protruding head screw that was too difficult
to get out using some method of cutting a slot or making some flat
areas so you can use a wrench as you say. Unless it was corroded along
the threads. I had to use a small file to make a slot in a spinner
screw several times (protruding head screw). I have twisted the head
off too many bolts. Don't remind me! But the problem here is usually
being able to get enough torque on the screw to remove it, as is often
the problem with countersunk screws. When the screw is located in thin
aluminum sheet as is often the case on aircraft, using a dremel around
the head of the screw is not an option! In my opinion, removing stuck
or broken screws is the toughest job a mechanic faces.

Bud


wrote:
After you do all these things to the head, you will have enough torque
to twist the head off!
Then you will need the extractors.

I've found you can use the dremel tool to make a square like head on
the screw then take it
out with a vice grip.

Bill Hale


wrote:
I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
well.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1

(copy and paste the address if it is too long)

I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
work well?

Regards,
Bud

Michael Horowitz wrote:
I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
rusted screws? - Mike

Use a chisel to put a V shaped slot in the edge of the screw. Now put a
punch in the
slot on a tangent to the screw head and tap it with a hammer to turn the
screw.


"Michael Horowitz" wrote in message
...
I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
rusted screws? - Mike

Thanks for the tip. I helped my son work on his POS VW bus last
weekend, and we needed to remove a number of very rusted screws. The
philips head screwdriver kept torquing out and buggering the screw, so
I tried your valve grinding compound trick, and it worked great.
thanks again,
tom

Vaughn Simon wrote:
I have heard others say
they use a bit of valve grinding compound on the tip of the screwdriver to
reduce cam out. Never tried it myself.
Vaughn

wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for the tip. I helped my son work on his POS VW bus last
weekend, and we needed to remove a number of very rusted screws. The
philips head screwdriver kept torquing out and buggering the screw, so
I tried your valve grinding compound trick, and it worked great.
thanks again,
tom

Using the term "POS" reminds me that I have a sterling example of truth in
advertising.
I'm using an old CB power supply to power my 2 meter transceiver. I've had
it for about 20 years and , within its limits it works quite well (12 volts
at 4 amps can only furnish 10 watts output with my FT-1500M transceiver but
that gets into the local repeaters just fine). To get back to the truth in
advertising point, the model number of the power supply is POS 124Z. How
could they be more honest than that.(G)

Harold
KD5SAK

wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for the tip. I helped my son work on his POS VW bus last
weekend, and we needed to remove a number of very rusted screws. The
philips head screwdriver kept torquing out and buggering the screw, so
I tried your valve grinding compound trick, and it worked great.
thanks again,

Kool! I will have to try it myself someday.

Vaughn