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Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 25th 16, 03:51 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
[email protected]
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?
  #2  
Old March 25th 16, 04:08 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
2G
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 8:51:10 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?


I used to own a 19 many years ago and am trying to picture the bolt that you are talking about. Posting a photo someplace else would help my memory.

Tom
  #3  
Old March 25th 16, 04:52 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
JS
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 8:51:10 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?


If it's the same as some other Schleicher rudders I've sworn at:
Hold the bolt near the bottom with long needle nose pliers. Access through the cutout in the right side of the rudder with the rudder hard left. If it works the first time, buy a lottery ticket.
Jim

  #4  
Old March 25th 16, 05:15 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

I got it. I was about to invest in the long needle nose pliers. But that would have to be tomorrow, and I wanted to drop that bolt in today. So this was the trick. Straighten out a clothes hanger. Then put a 90 degree bend in the last 1/2 inch. Then use a small rubber band to hold the bolt onto the wire. Now you can use the long wire to drop the bolt into the hinge.. It took a couple of tries, but it's better than having to buy a new tool.. Or, maybe not..... I do like buying tools.
  #5  
Old March 25th 16, 05:49 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 1:15:43 AM UTC-4, wrote:
I got it. I was about to invest in the long needle nose pliers. But that would have to be tomorrow, and I wanted to drop that bolt in today. So this was the trick. Straighten out a clothes hanger. Then put a 90 degree bend in the last 1/2 inch. Then use a small rubber band to hold the bolt onto the wire. Now you can use the long wire to drop the bolt into the hinge. It took a couple of tries, but it's better than having to buy a new tool. Or, maybe not..... I do like buying tools.


A length of ~.020" SS safety wire wrapped a turn or 2 around the bolt just under the head, fish bolt into hole.
Once it's engaged into the hole, pull wire out (it will unwind itself) and tap bolt the rest of the way in.

Works great on the field where you may be tool limited.
;-)
  #6  
Old March 25th 16, 10:41 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
krasw
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Friday, 25 March 2016 05:51:10 UTC+2, wrote:
Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?


As others have written, try first which side access hole is bigger, it is not necessarily symmetrical. I've done it with long needle pliers or bent steel wire, and after ten annuals I'm pretty good at it. First tries took hours.

Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt. Even writing about it gets my blood pressure up.
  #7  
Old March 25th 16, 04:33 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

Le vendredi 25 mars 2016 11:41:58 UTC+1, krasw a écrit*:
Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt. Even writing about it gets my blood pressure up.


I suppose you are talking about the transverse bolt through the "swivel block" in the nose? I assume it's the same as on the ASW-20... Normally, you don't have to unscrew that bolt (you might well have to cut a hole through the side of the nose to take it out). If you undo the bolt at the rear of the spring (canopy side), the gas spring can then be unscrewed from the front "swivel block". That block is tapped for the M8 plunger end, it is not integral with the plunger.

The problem is rather to compress the new gas spring to put it in place. This is the contraption we used last year:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../photo%201.JPG
  #8  
Old March 25th 16, 06:08 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
krasw
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Posts: 668
Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Friday, 25 March 2016 18:33:31 UTC+2, wrote:
Le vendredi 25 mars 2016 11:41:58 UTC+1, krasw a écrit*:
Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt. Even writing about it gets my blood pressure up.


I suppose you are talking about the transverse bolt through the "swivel block" in the nose? I assume it's the same as on the ASW-20... Normally, you don't have to unscrew that bolt (you might well have to cut a hole through the side of the nose to take it out). If you undo the bolt at the rear of the spring (canopy side), the gas spring can then be unscrewed from the front "swivel block". That block is tapped for the M8 plunger end, it is not integral with the plunger.


That is all fine if you have a gas spring that you can be unscrewed from front fitting, mine was stamped fixed...

  #9  
Old March 25th 16, 07:57 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Eric Munk
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

Go to any medical hardware store and invest in a pair of lean long-reach
surgical pliers that can be locked into place. Even better than a pair of
bulky pliers. Have been using them for years now. Bought lots of
lottery-tickets since the rudder goes in in one go most of the time...

Gas strut for canopy: factory sells a handy compression tool. Use an allen
key to align the holes. Works even better if fuselage upside down for
access, and instrument panel removed.

At 18:08 25 March 2016, krasw wrote:
On Friday, 25 March 2016 18:33:31 UTC+2, wrote:
Le vendredi 25 mars 2016 11:41:58 UTC+1, krasw a =E9crit=A0:
Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt.

Even
=
writing about it gets my blood pressure up.
=20
I suppose you are talking about the transverse bolt through the "swivel

b=
lock" in the nose? I assume it's the same as on the ASW-20... Normally,
you=
don't have to unscrew that bolt (you might well have to cut a hole
through=
the side of the nose to take it out). If you undo the bolt at the rear

of
=
the spring (canopy side), the gas spring can then be unscrewed from the
fro=
nt "swivel block". That block is tapped for the M8 plunger end, it is not
i=
ntegral with the plunger.=20
=20


That is all fine if you have a gas spring that you can be unscrewed from
fr=
ont fitting, mine was stamped fixed...



  #10  
Old March 26th 16, 02:12 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)
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Posts: 1,383
Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 4:00:08 PM UTC-4, Eric Munk wrote:
Go to any medical hardware store and invest in a pair of lean long-reach
surgical pliers that can be locked into place. Even better than a pair of
bulky pliers. Have been using them for years now. Bought lots of
lottery-tickets since the rudder goes in in one go most of the time...

Gas strut for canopy: factory sells a handy compression tool. Use an allen
key to align the holes. Works even better if fuselage upside down for
access, and instrument panel removed.

At 18:08 25 March 2016, krasw wrote:
On Friday, 25 March 2016 18:33:31 UTC+2, wrote:
Le vendredi 25 mars 2016 11:41:58 UTC+1, krasw a =E9crit=A0:
Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt.

Even
=
writing about it gets my blood pressure up.
=20
I suppose you are talking about the transverse bolt through the "swivel

b=
lock" in the nose? I assume it's the same as on the ASW-20... Normally,
you=
don't have to unscrew that bolt (you might well have to cut a hole
through=
the side of the nose to take it out). If you undo the bolt at the rear

of
=
the spring (canopy side), the gas spring can then be unscrewed from the
fro=
nt "swivel block". That block is tapped for the M8 plunger end, it is not
i=
ntegral with the plunger.=20
=20


That is all fine if you have a gas spring that you can be unscrewed from
fr=
ont fitting, mine was stamped fixed...



Better to look at a surgical supply (or "Medical marijuana supplier") and ask for "10" hemostats", or, "long roach clips". They lock in place.

The SS safety wire is cheap, does many things and won't tend to raise a ton of questions from "official looking types wearing official looking uniforms of various colors".
 




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