replacing plastic panel overlay w/aluminum

I want to make my own aluminum overlays to simply replace the plastic
in my Piper Cherokee. I've been told over and over that this is
cosmetic, non-structural and therefore legal without an approved 337.
The only thing is that on the middle and lower strip of instruments
(fuel guages, RPM, etc.) in the older Piper Cherokees, there are no
screw holes on the surface. The plastic snaps in. i would want to
drill 4 sheet metal screws into those sections of panel. Would a 337
be required for that? My local FSDO (PHL) is very difficult about
things like this, so I don't want to even talk to them. If putting
screw holes in my panel to hold the new aluminum overlays is going to
raise a fuss, I'll think of something else like velcro. on the same
note, I there are other holes in my panel already that were put in for
various reasons (mic/phone/music jacks, avionics master switch, etc.).
None of these things have explicit logs or 337s that say 'drilled
hole in panel'.

Why drill new holes? The pieces will be so light that you can just
velco them in place.

Sandy Mustard

Dave wrote:

I want to make my own aluminum overlays to simply replace the plastic
in my Piper Cherokee. I've been told over and over that this is
cosmetic, non-structural and therefore legal without an approved 337.
The only thing is that on the middle and lower strip of instruments
(fuel guages, RPM, etc.) in the older Piper Cherokees, there are no
screw holes on the surface. The plastic snaps in. i would want to
drill 4 sheet metal screws into those sections of panel. Would a 337
be required for that? My local FSDO (PHL) is very difficult about
things like this, so I don't want to even talk to them. If putting
screw holes in my panel to hold the new aluminum overlays is going to
raise a fuss, I'll think of something else like velcro. on the same
note, I there are other holes in my panel already that were put in for
various reasons (mic/phone/music jacks, avionics master switch, etc.).
None of these things have explicit logs or 337s that say 'drilled
hole in panel'.

I want to make my own aluminum overlays to simply replace the plastic

Just curious:

I've personally not seen a flat aluminum panel that looks as good as the
plastic overlays -- why not just buy new plastic parts?

Or do you have a special design in mind?
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

And in reality, once you drill, you'll need a 337, if anyone really
gives a crap.

On Fri, 09 Jan 2004 16:09:59 -0500, Sandy Mustard
wrote:


Why drill new holes? The pieces will be so light that you can just
velco them in place.

Sandy Mustard

Dave wrote:

I want to make my own aluminum overlays to simply replace the plastic
in my Piper Cherokee. I've been told over and over that this is
cosmetic, non-structural and therefore legal without an approved 337.
The only thing is that on the middle and lower strip of instruments
(fuel guages, RPM, etc.) in the older Piper Cherokees, there are no
screw holes on the surface. The plastic snaps in. i would want to
drill 4 sheet metal screws into those sections of panel. Would a 337
be required for that? My local FSDO (PHL) is very difficult about
things like this, so I don't want to even talk to them. If putting
screw holes in my panel to hold the new aluminum overlays is going to
raise a fuss, I'll think of something else like velcro. on the same
note, I there are other holes in my panel already that were put in for
various reasons (mic/phone/music jacks, avionics master switch, etc.).
None of these things have explicit logs or 337s that say 'drilled
hole in panel'.

"Stu Gotts" wrote in message ...
And in reality, once you drill, you'll need a 337, if anyone really
gives a crap.

Only in some megalomaniac FSDO's inspectors mind. A nonstructural hole is not
a major modification.

(Dave) wrote in news:b45e1530.0401091020.5bb05440
@posting.google.com:

I want to make my own aluminum overlays to simply replace the plastic
in my Piper Cherokee. I've been told over and over that this is
cosmetic, non-structural and therefore legal without an approved 337.

Personally (YMMV) I wouldn't worry about it, provided you are confident you
can do it safely (i.e. don't drill into wiring or vacuum or oil lines back
behind the panel). Just reasonable precautions and everything should be
fine.

But I am curious. The main panel (unless you have a MUCH different model
than most of the ones I am familiar with) rely on the panel overlay being
molded. The lamps stick up slightly, reflect off the back of the current
plastic overlay, and the "shine through" in places where the panel is cut
away near the instruments. Are you going to make an actual metal
reproduction of the existing plastic panel (unlikely) or are you going to
replace the existing lamps with something else (like maybe NuLites)?

-----------------------------------------------
James M. Knox
TriSoft ph 512-385-0316
1109-A Shady Lane fax 512-366-4331
Austin, Tx 78721
-----------------------------------------------

Dave wrote:

I would want to
drill 4 sheet metal screws into those sections of panel. Would a 337
be required for that?

You can drill holes in any non-structural part without a 337.

George Patterson
Great discoveries are not announced with "Eureka!". What's usually said is
"Hummmmm... That's interesting...."

"James M. Knox" wrote in message ...
But I am curious. The main panel (unless you have a MUCH different model
than most of the ones I am familiar with) rely on the panel overlay being
molded. The lamps stick up slightly, reflect off the back of the current
plastic overlay, and the "shine through" in places where the panel is cut
away near the instruments. Are you going to make an actual metal
reproduction of the existing plastic panel (unlikely) or are you going to
replace the existing lamps with something else (like maybe NuLites)?


My 1972 Cherokee 6 has post lights coming through the plastic overlay.
So, I could re-use those, but I'm going to likely go with NuLites.
Some of my instruments are internally lit, and the goal is for all of
them to be internally lit as I replace and upgrade. But until then, a
$40 NuLite wedge will suffice.