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#12
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("Jan Carlsson" wrote)
use a wood or composite prop not aluminum I went to your site. Why not aluminum? for the rest of the body, use meat, fat, egg, fish, vegetable, fruit. stay out of rice, potatoes, pasta, bread (Atkinson method) Good Friday ....McDonald's $1.00 fish sandwich ...w/cheese Montblack - raised Catholic |
#13
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I would check with a Van's builder. RVs have aluminum riveted tanks with
pro-seal. If you know a good tig welder, then a welded tank can be built. "Fortunat1" wrote in message ... "Rich S." sednews:_fydnZvUOMpYONnfRVn- : "Fortunat1" wrote in message . . . so I'm going to have to learn to build an aluminum tank.. Anyone know of a resource to show me how? The books by Tony Bingelis have excellent tips on this. http://www.amtbooks.com/sport_plane_...on_techniq.htm Mm, have all of his books and I don't remember seeing an article about ali tank construction, but I did find this article from SA on the net.. http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuil...About%20An%20A luminum%20Fuel%20Tank_.html |
#14
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"Cy Galley" sednews:4V41e.103754$r55.32258@attbi_s52:
I would check with a Van's builder. RVs have aluminum riveted tanks with pro-seal. If you know a good tig welder, then a welded tank can be built. OK, thanks.There are two down the road from me, in fact! I'll probably try and weld it myself, though I've never welded aluminum before. Then again, most ofthe things I've done on this contraption I've never done before. I'm assuming baffles (and I think I'd need them in a long shallow wing tank) aren't welded, though. I'm supposing that the tank would be assembled, but the back left open until the baffles are all riveted, and then closed up and welded? |
#15
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To save weight, if an alu prop weight 30 lb. a birch will be 7 lb., mahogany
5.5 lb. for efficiency, use the aluminium! Jan Carlsson www.jcpropellerdesign.com use a wood or composite prop not aluminum I went to your site. Why not aluminum? for the rest of the body, use meat, fat, egg, fish, vegetable, fruit. stay out of rice, potatoes, pasta, bread (Atkinson method) Good Friday ....McDonald's $1.00 fish sandwich ...w/cheese Montblack - raised Catholic |
#16
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To save weight, if an alu prop weight 30 lb. a birch will be 7 lb.,
mahogany 5.5 lb. for efficiency, use the aluminium! Jan Carlsson www.jcpropellerdesign.com Aluminum will weigh 5 x the mahogany? Wow. At 100-110 mph how much (WAG) efficiency would the wooden prop lose, on say an Ercoupe? What's the cost difference between aluminum and wooden props? Why do people buy birch instead of mahogany? Cool, a prop person g Montblack |
#17
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Fortunat1 wrote:
"Cy Galley" sednews:4V41e.103754$r55.32258@attbi_s52: I would check with a Van's builder. RVs have aluminum riveted tanks with pro-seal. If you know a good tig welder, then a welded tank can be built. OK, thanks.There are two down the road from me, in fact! I'll probably try and weld it myself, though I've never welded aluminum before. Then again, most ofthe things I've done on this contraption I've never done before. I'm assuming baffles (and I think I'd need them in a long shallow wing tank) aren't welded, though. I'm supposing that the tank would be assembled, but the back left open until the baffles are all riveted, and then closed up and welded? I see no reason not to weld the baffles as well. Probably less messy than sealing the rivets. Matt |
#18
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"Montblack" wrote in message
... Aluminum will weigh 5 x the mahogany? Wow. Specific gravity of Aluminum = 2.7 Specific gravity of Mahogany = ~.5 What's the cost difference between aluminum and wooden props? New Ed Sterba Birch prop ~ $600. New Sensenich Aluminum $2,000. These are rough figures. Why do people buy birch instead of mahogany? Birch has a specific gravity ~ .7 and is a lot stronger per pound than Mahogany when used for a prop. Rich S. |
#19
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"Jan Carlsson"
: To save weight, if an alu prop weight 30 lb. a birch will be 7 lb., mahogany 5.5 lb. for efficiency, use the aluminium! Well, in this case the prop would be very efecient indeed. It's a 76 inch ground adjustable Ham Standard with a very nice section. That menas, of course, that I can screw around with the pitch to get the perforamnce I need. |
#20
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In article ,
Matt Whiting wrote: Fortunat1 wrote: "Cy Galley" sednews:4V41e.103754$r55.32258@attbi_s52: I would check with a Van's builder. RVs have aluminum riveted tanks with pro-seal. If you know a good tig welder, then a welded tank can be built. OK, thanks.There are two down the road from me, in fact! I'll probably try and weld it myself, though I've never welded aluminum before. Then again, most ofthe things I've done on this contraption I've never done before. I'm assuming baffles (and I think I'd need them in a long shallow wing tank) aren't welded, though. I'm supposing that the tank would be assembled, but the back left open until the baffles are all riveted, and then closed up and welded? I see no reason not to weld the baffles as well. Probably less messy than sealing the rivets. Matt that depends on the aluminum alloy used -- and, how much warping you can tolerate. Van's tanks are "wet" cells -- part of the wing and are 2024-T3, which is NOT weldable. The nice thing about wet cells is that they add only the weight of the ProSeal to the airframe weight, while separate tanks add their own weight to the plane. 6061 and 5052 are common weldable alloys, but you will get some distortions from the welding process. |
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