Imron?

One disadvantage of Imron and other polyurethane paints is they have
hardener. So there is no way to have a paint shop put the paint in a
small aerosol can and use it periodically to paint your chips,
scratches etc. If you did this, it would harden.

No, but you can get the paint and the hardener separate for a good long
time.

When you need to touch up some dings, just mix a small amount and have at
it, using an artist's brush.

Just beware of the toxicity of the stuff.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

In article jMaic.11707$IW1.749429@attbi_s52,
"Jay Honeck" wrote:

One disadvantage of Imron and other polyurethane paints is they have
hardener. So there is no way to have a paint shop put the paint in a
small aerosol can and use it periodically to paint your chips,
scratches etc. If you did this, it would harden.

No, but you can get the paint and the hardener separate for a good long
time.

When you need to touch up some dings, just mix a small amount and have at
it, using an artist's brush.

Just beware of the toxicity of the stuff.

After you touch it up, you CAN work it the same way you do with lacquer.
I have even removed runs and sags.

All you have to do is:

1. Wet (LOTS of water) sand the sag or run with #320 until the sag is
gone

2. Wet sand with #600 to remove the #320 scratches

3. Wet sand with #1200. then #2000 to remove remaining scratches

4. Polish with 3M rubbing compound.

5. Polish with 3M Finesse It.

6. Polish with 3M Prefect It.

7. Wax with a good Carnauba wax.

An old friend who used to be a big Ford dealer taught me the above
system. Steps 4-6 can be either done by hand (very small areas) or
machine rubbed in 2 ft square sections.

I have a Makita sander, which I set to the lowest RPM setting, or you
can burn the paint.

The above system can make an Imron (or Alumigrip or PPG) paint job look
like hand-rubbed lacquer.

Another useful item is an airbrush with a regulator at the gun hose, to
prevent line losses.

As for paint preferences, I have used Imron, PPG, Alumigrip and Finch.
They all work well -- the secret is in preparation. Contaminents can
result in corrosion or poor adhesion.

"Doug" wrote in message
om...
One disadvantage of Imron and other polyurethane paints is they have
hardener. So there is no way to have a paint shop put the paint in a
small aerosol can and use it periodically to paint your chips,
scratches etc. If you did this, it would harden.

You can have acrylic enamel mixed to match and use it for touchup. Aerosol
for touchup is not the way to go. There are much better methods. Get a good
auto paint manual for instructions.

"Dave Stadt" wrote in message ...
"Doug" wrote in message
om...
One disadvantage of Imron and other polyurethane paints is they have
hardener. So there is no way to have a paint shop put the paint in a
small aerosol can and use it periodically to paint your chips,
scratches etc. If you did this, it would harden.

You can have acrylic enamel mixed to match and use it for touchup. Aerosol
for touchup is not the way to go. There are much better methods. Get a good
auto paint manual for instructions.

For small touch up spots Imron will dry ok without the activator mixed
in. I have been using Dupont on all my street rods, hydros, race cars
and alot of other things too. Now that it's getting to the 300. $ a
gallon level my currect choice is to powdercoat as much as I can. Also
I want to add, Imron is nasty stuff to spray but it is not as bad as
some people make it out to be. The post that started this mentioned
paint peeling off, thats the failure of the prep work/ primer
application, not the paint itself.

Ben Haas N801BH

Paul Folbrecht wrote:

The previous owner had put some clear packing tape over the wing root
vents for winter flying, and when I peeled the stuff off it took paint
with it, leaving me with spots of bare metal.

Man, that seems like a stupid (but functional) way to block an air
intake. I'm not an owner, though. Is there a "correct" way to do this?

-Scott

Scott Lowrey wrote:

Man, that seems like a stupid (but functional) way to block an air
intake. I'm not an owner, though. Is there a "correct" way to do this?

Not usually. Most of us either stuff something in it or tape over it. If it's the
intake to the oil cooler, some companies used to market "official" winterization
kits, but product liability laws put a stop to that.

George Patterson
If you don't tell lies, you never have to remember what you said.

The "correct" way to get a leaky air vent to close is to replace the
seal material on the flap. It is a pain in the butt because most Pipers
use a design where the seal material is sandwiched between 2 aluminum
plates that are riveted together. This is similar to the flap in the
carb air box. I believe Piper sells the assembly, but I predict the
price is probably high (like $60). I believe that is what I paid for an
air box flap replacement. I never compared them, but they look VERY similar.

The seals on my '74 air vents work fine.

A temporary fix that does not screw anything up is to stuff a Nerf ball
into the plastic vent diverter. However, many cheapskates have broken
vents that they won't replace. In many Warriors and Archers, the front
vents are situated too far back to be of any use, even if the plastic
diverters are in place. On my 140, they are just forward enough to blast
on the front of my body and face.

Good Luck,
Mike



Scott Lowrey wrote:
Paul Folbrecht wrote:


The previous owner had put some clear packing tape over the wing root
vents for winter flying, and when I peeled the stuff off it took paint
with it, leaving me with spots of bare metal.


Man, that seems like a stupid (but functional) way to block an air
intake. I'm not an owner, though. Is there a "correct" way to do this?

-Scott


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The previous owner had put some clear packing tape over the wing root
vents for winter flying, and when I peeled the stuff off it took paint
with it, leaving me with spots of bare metal.

Man, that seems like a stupid (but functional) way to block an air
intake. I'm not an owner, though. Is there a "correct" way to do this?

The correct way to solve a cabin air leak is to replace or repair the faulty
duct or flapper. In our case, a previous owner had actually *removed* the
flapper control for our fresh air ducts, which meant we were relying on the
little ceiling mounted louvered ducts to shut off outside air. Not good.

When the outside air temp is below 10 degrees, ANY infiltration is
noticeable. Thus, we ended up replacing the missing flapper control, the
flexible ductwork, control cable, AND the ceiling plastic.

Since this is a giant pain, some people take the easy and cheap way out.
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

I agree with that assessment!

And, I'm in Wisconsin and have flown several times where the temp was
right at the point that my FBO *allowed* their planes to fly - like 5
degrees F - and did not see a need to block the wing roots even then!
Once the heater is going you're fine.

Scott Lowrey wrote:
Paul Folbrecht wrote:


The previous owner had put some clear packing tape over the wing root
vents for winter flying, and when I peeled the stuff off it took paint
with it, leaving me with spots of bare metal.


Man, that seems like a stupid (but functional) way to block an air
intake. I'm not an owner, though. Is there a "correct" way to do this?

-Scott