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#11
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Continental A-65 engine stall?
Bob wrote:
To All: Annd if you've done like most of us and wrapped an over-stretched screen-door spring around the exhaust stack, odds are it rusted itself into FOD during the Eisenhower administration. -R.S.Hoover Yes, I was concerned about the doorsprings corroding and breaking pieces off to be ingested into the carburetor since there isn't any sort of filter in the "warm" air path between the heat muff and the carb airbox... One thing that is different on my system now (since my recent top overhaul) is the addition of an air inlet on the engine baffle between the nosebowl and the cylinder (pilot side) with tubing running from it to the heat muff. My old system just had the inlet pipe of the Aeronca heat muff unconnected to anything and I noticed that the aluminum heat muff looked like it had melted a bit where it was contacting the exhaust pipe so I added the cool air inlet to help cool the heat muff a bit. Maybe it cools it too much and I'm just not getting enough heat, so increasing the surface area sounds like a good idea...just unsure of the method. I know I DO NOT want FOD running into the carb as that is SURE to cause the engine to react [not so] funny Scott |
#12
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Continental A-65 engine stall?
Scott wrote:
Yes, I was concerned about the doorsprings corroding and breaking pieces off to be ingested into the carburetor since there isn't any sort of filter in the "warm" air path between the heat muff and the carb airbox... A stainless steel screen should be a standard item over the air intake on any engine if you are running without a filter. You never know when something too big to be ingested will get sucked in. Tony |
#13
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Continental A-65 engine stall?
"Scott" wrote in message
... Bob wrote: To All: Annd if you've done like most of us and wrapped an over-stretched screen-door spring around the exhaust stack, odds are it rusted itself into FOD during the Eisenhower administration. -R.S.Hoover Yes, I was concerned about the doorsprings corroding and breaking pieces off to be ingested into the carburetor since there isn't any sort of filter in the "warm" air path between the heat muff and the carb airbox... One thing that is different on my system now (since my recent top overhaul) is the addition of an air inlet on the engine baffle between the nosebowl and the cylinder (pilot side) with tubing running from it to the heat muff. My old system just had the inlet pipe of the Aeronca heat muff unconnected to anything and I noticed that the aluminum heat muff looked like it had melted a bit where it was contacting the exhaust pipe so I added the cool air inlet to help cool the heat muff a bit. Maybe it cools it too much and I'm just not getting enough heat, so increasing the surface area sounds like a good idea...just unsure of the method. I know I DO NOT want FOD running into the carb as that is SURE to cause the engine to react [not so] funny Scott Aha! I read your post this morning and didn't think much about it at the time; but but it now occurs to me that the cooling air gains a lot of heat passing through the cooling fins of the engine--so that you may have created your own problem by sending cold outside air directly into the heat muff. Just a thought. Peter |
#14
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Continental A-65 engine stall?
On Jul 13, 3:33 pm, "Peter Dohm" wrote:
Aha! I read your post this morning and didn't think much about it at the time; but but it now occurs to me that the cooling air gains a lot of heat passing through the cooling fins of the engine--so that you may have created your own problem by sending cold outside air directly into the heat muff. Just a thought. Peter And since those Aeronca muffs tend to leak a lot, forcing air into them might cool the pipe too much just when the heat is needed. The OP needs to seal up those muffs. The connection to the baffling needs to stay, since a muffed pipe with no airflow (except when carb heat is on) will overheat and burn out. Piper had plenty of that sort of trouble on their Cherokees. The OP gets a 50 RPM drop in cruise, with carb heat. That ain't much. Dan |
#15
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Continental A-65 engine stall?
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#16
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Continental A-65 engine stall?
On Jul 13, 9:09 pm, Scott wrote:
Actually, my muffs fit fairly "airtight" around the exhaust pipes. I actually had to cut and trim a bit to make them fit at all, so I think the majority of the heat produced is captured inside the muff. However, I just don't think the two halves of aluminum have enough thermal mass to provide a ton of heat to the carb, so I think I still need to come up with a safe way to add mass inside the muff. Scott The Aeronca muff often involved a deflector plate, attached to a small strut across the pipe vee, that prevented the air from travelling straight across the chamber from the inlet to the outlet. The deflector made the air flow around the pipes to get from one side to the other. Lots more heat. Does your have that? Dan |
#17
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Continental A-65 engine stall?
wrote The Aeronca muff often involved a deflector plate, attached to a small strut across the pipe vee, that prevented the air from travelling straight across the chamber from the inlet to the outlet. The deflector made the air flow around the pipes to get from one side to the other. Lots more heat. Does your have that? How about a diverter shaped to make the air corkscrew around the pipe? -- Jim in NC |
#18
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Continental A-65 engine stall?
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#19
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Continental A-65 engine stall?
cavelamb schreef:
See Tony Bingles books... Confusing dear old Tony with dearer older Capt. James Bigglesworth? |
#20
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Continental A-65 engine stall?
jan olieslagers wrote:
cavelamb schreef: See Tony Bingles books... Confusing dear old Tony with dearer older Capt. James Bigglesworth? Capt. James Bigglesworth? Never heard of him! |
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