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#11
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What canopy adhesive to use?
On Tuesday, August 15, 2017 at 10:45:07 AM UTC-5, Eric Munk wrote:
L285/L335 with microballoons was used by a large number of german and polish manufacturers. Poles usually apply Aerodux and grind that down as a primer to make the epoxy stick to the plexi. Alternatively, using a polyesther instead of an epoxy makes for a stronger joint but significantly shorter potlife (minutes not hours). I have seen various other modern kits used too. Some with great succes. At 15:28 15 August 2017, Steve Leonard wrote: On Tuesday, August 15, 2017 at 10:04:50 AM UTC-5, LongJourney wrote: =20 After reading some RV builder sites, I'm thinking what was used on my can= opy was Proseal, not Sika. Pretty sure it is NOT Proseal. When that stuff cures, it is stuck. It doe= sn't seem to deteriorate with heat, moisture, UV exposure, or anything. Ye= s, it is a black (or very dark gray), sort of rubbery when cured adhesive. = But from my experience, it will not fail. The plex will break, or the ste= el tube frame can rust away, but the Proseal will not separate. I was once told that 3M 5200 is great stuff, but I have not used it, myself= .. I think you can find it referenced in another thread here on gluing stuf= f together. Steve Leonard All the Austrias I've seen/owned/flown including an SHK, used screws to attach the canopy to the tubular steel frame. Good Luck, Scott The tubular steel frame |
#12
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What canopy adhesive to use?
On Monday, August 14, 2017 at 1:04:16 PM UTC-4, LongJourney wrote:
I've done a search in both RAS and on the web but I'm not finding the information I'm looking for. I'm restoring a 1963 S Austria and one of the previous owners used what I think is Sikaflex to bond the canopy glass to the metal canopy frame. It's now separating badly. What should I use to bond the plexiglass to the frame? And should I prime the metal frame and then scuff it where the glass will be bonded, or leave it bare until after the glass is glued on? Thanks for your help, Jeff Do not use screws; they make for stress concentration and crack development.. I installed anew Kestrel 19 canopy using RTV silcone preceeded by a primer; this gives a slightly flexible bond which alleviates stress concentration. JMF 35 yrs later the Kestrel is still flying. |
#13
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What canopy adhesive to use?
On Saturday, August 19, 2017 at 8:59:07 AM UTC-5, firsys wrote:
On Monday, August 14, 2017 at 1:04:16 PM UTC-4, LongJourney wrote: I've done a search in both RAS and on the web but I'm not finding the information I'm looking for. I'm restoring a 1963 S Austria and one of the previous owners used what I think is Sikaflex to bond the canopy glass to the metal canopy frame. It's now separating badly. What should I use to bond the plexiglass to the frame? And should I prime the metal frame and then scuff it where the glass will be bonded, or leave it bare until after the glass is glued on? Thanks for your help, Jeff Do not use screws; they make for stress concentration and crack development. |
#14
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What canopy adhesive to use?
I have replaced a few Slingsby Skylark and Dart canopies.They also used countersunk flat headed screws, but into wooden frames. The trick is to drill the holes slightly oversize and bed the canopy onto a sealant which doesn't have huge and permanent bond strength. You just might want to use the frame again, as I did. Not metal tubular frame, but of similar vintage. Pete
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#15
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What canopy adhesive to use?
On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 4:18:33 AM UTC-5, Peter Whitehead wrote:
I have replaced a few Slingsby Skylark and Dart canopies.They also used countersunk flat headed screws, but into wooden frames. The trick is to drill the holes slightly oversize and bed the canopy onto a sealant which doesn't have huge and permanent bond strength. You just might want to use the frame again, as I did. Not metal tubular frame, but of similar vintage. Pete Pete, You are right, the Austria canopy frame is a welded up complicated item including locating pins and a plunger latch mechanism which is a Huge pain in the butt to fabricate!, The loss of which might prove itself close to impossible to replace. Scott. |
#16
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What canopy adhesive to use?
On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 4:18:33 AM UTC-5, Peter Whitehead wrote:
I have replaced a few Slingsby Skylark and Dart canopies.They also used countersunk flat headed screws, but into wooden frames. The trick is to drill the holes slightly oversize and bed the canopy onto a sealant which doesn't have huge and permanent bond strength. You just might want to use the frame again, as I did. Not metal tubular frame, but of similar vintage. Pete Thanks, Scott. I have located said drawing and see that it was originally fastened with countersunk screws. I also heard from another Austria owner who told me that his canopy was fastened with screws. In addition, I scraped away some of the rubber black stuff on the frame and there are holes about every 4 inches. I have ordered screws and an acrylic drill bit from AS. I plan to drill the holes in the plexi a bit oversized to reduce stress and allow for expansion and contraction. Thanks for all the help. |
#17
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What canopy adhesive to use?
On Monday, August 21, 2017 at 9:20:12 AM UTC-4, LongJourney wrote:
On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 4:18:33 AM UTC-5, Peter Whitehead wrote: I have replaced a few Slingsby Skylark and Dart canopies.They also used countersunk flat headed screws, but into wooden frames. The trick is to drill the holes slightly oversize and bed the canopy onto a sealant which doesn't have huge and permanent bond strength. You just might want to use the frame again, as I did. Not metal tubular frame, but of similar vintage. Pete Thanks, Scott. I have located said drawing and see that it was originally fastened with countersunk screws. I also heard from another Austria owner who told me that his canopy was fastened with screws. In addition, I scraped away some of the rubber black stuff on the frame and there are holes about every 4 inches. I have ordered screws and an acrylic drill bit from AS. I plan to drill the holes in the plexi a bit oversized to reduce stress and allow for expansion and contraction. Thanks for all the help. I have installed about 20 canopies using screws. I NEVER drill holes. I create the holes using a rotary tool (Dremel) with a cone shaped diamond cutter about 1/8 inch in diameter. Gently pushing the spinning cutter does a combination of cut and melt that makes a good hole and does not create the issues that lead to cracking when a drill is used. After the primary is through, I walk in a circle to increase to final size. If flat head screws are used I make sure the primary hole is a little oversize so that when I countersink I don't get to a sharp edge on the far side. I countersink with a "normal" countersink that is sharp. I use low pressure and back up the plastic so I don't stress at the hole. FWIW Good Luck UH |
#18
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What canopy adhesive to use?
I have been very careful and lucky with drilling holes, but yes, this way sounds good advice, I shall use my Dremel in future!Pete
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#19
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What canopy adhesive to use?
Key to drilling most plastic is to NOT use a new sharp bit. The cutting edge sharp corners leave grooves (stress risers) in the hole.
A "grinding bit", or burr "melts" its way through. A dull twist drill may work. A new bit where you drag a stone across the cutting edge (parallel with the bit long axis) to dull the edge (more of a round scraper than a bit that cuts) can help. Look at the "cutting edge" of a cheap masonary bit, same idea. Back up your hole (small piece of soft wood works) to prevent "threading the bit through" when you get to the far side. High speed and slow feed rate also help. Practice on scrap plastic (you can buy small sheets of 1/8" acrylic at a hobby shop or Home Depot in the US). Cheaper than breaking an expensive canopy. |
#20
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What canopy adhesive to use?
Specialty bits for plexi are available.
http://www.eplastics.com/plexiglass_...tic_drill_bits Craig 7Q |
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