Libelle spoilers

The devil is in the details......

WD-40 can be great to dry out some electrical bits, as well as loosen dried lube (grease and/or oil) or loosen rusted iron bits.
It has, basically, NO lubrication in it, so......it can get things moving, but likely NOT keeping them moving.

I use about 12 different lubes, depends on the application, currently I like "fluid film" as it sticks, works well and is limited in negative effects due to temp.
Silicone spray when I'm dealing with rubber or similar.
LockEze for cables, locks or small parts since it's basically graphite.

Yes, WD-40 can free it up, but it WILL fail again due to lack of a real lube.

Taken from a "mechanical guy" of over 40 years, doing facilities maintenance and auto/aircraft during that time.

On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 12:20:06 -0700, Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)
wrote:

The devil is in the details......

WD-40 can be great to dry out some electrical bits, as well as loosen
dried lube (grease and/or oil) or loosen rusted iron bits.
It has, basically, NO lubrication in it, so......it can get things
moving, but likely NOT keeping them moving.

I use about 12 different lubes, depends on the application, currently I
like "fluid film" as it sticks, works well and is limited in negative
effects due to temp.
Silicone spray when I'm dealing with rubber or similar.
LockEze for cables, locks or small parts since it's basically graphite.

Yes, WD-40 can free it up, but it WILL fail again due to lack of a real
lube.

Taken from a "mechanical guy" of over 40 years, doing facilities
maintenance and auto/aircraft during that time.

Thanks for the explanation.

My past use of WD-40 has almost entirely been limited to blasting dirt
out of clockwork timers and/or engines after a free flight model has
dethermalised onto a mega-dusty place. Its invaluable for that - but, and
I'd forgotten this, at the end of the day its essential to strip and
thoroughly clean any timer that has been washed out with WD-40 because
the stuff will dry out and make the timer unreliable, the only cures
being another blast of WD-40 at the start of each future flying session
or the aforementioned strip/clean/re-lube to get rid of any remaining
WD-40 that was in it.

Engines are OK: the WD-40 blows the assorted crap out of the engine so
its clean enough to run, and the next run and flood-off gets rid the
residual WD-40.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |

On Saturday, September 10, 2016 at 1:21:41 PM UTC-7, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 12:20:06 -0700, Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)
wrote:

The devil is in the details......

WD-40 can be great to dry out some electrical bits, as well as loosen
dried lube (grease and/or oil) or loosen rusted iron bits.
It has, basically, NO lubrication in it, so......it can get things
moving, but likely NOT keeping them moving.

I use about 12 different lubes, depends on the application, currently I
like "fluid film" as it sticks, works well and is limited in negative
effects due to temp.
Silicone spray when I'm dealing with rubber or similar.
LockEze for cables, locks or small parts since it's basically graphite.

Yes, WD-40 can free it up, but it WILL fail again due to lack of a real
lube.

Taken from a "mechanical guy" of over 40 years, doing facilities
maintenance and auto/aircraft during that time.

Thanks for the explanation.

My past use of WD-40 has almost entirely been limited to blasting dirt
out of clockwork timers and/or engines after a free flight model has
dethermalised onto a mega-dusty place. Its invaluable for that - but, and
I'd forgotten this, at the end of the day its essential to strip and
thoroughly clean any timer that has been washed out with WD-40 because
the stuff will dry out and make the timer unreliable, the only cures
being another blast of WD-40 at the start of each future flying session
or the aforementioned strip/clean/re-lube to get rid of any remaining
WD-40 that was in it.

Engines are OK: the WD-40 blows the assorted crap out of the engine so
its clean enough to run, and the next run and flood-off gets rid the
residual WD-40.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |

Interesting, The WD-40 manufacturer labels the non-lubricant assertion a myth. http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts

Regardless, my personal experience with WD-40 as a lubricant is that it's inferior to something like LPS-2 for long-term lubrication. Stuff I've used WD-40 on tends to seem gunky / rosin like after an extended period of time.

ymmv
7Q

On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 14:33:46 -0700, Craig Funston wrote:

Regardless, my personal experience with WD-40 as a lubricant is that
it's inferior to something like LPS-2 for long-term lubrication. Stuff
I've used WD-40 on tends to seem gunky / rosin like after an extended
period of time.

Yep - that's pretty much our experience. Something that's a bit sticky is
left on the timer frame and cog wheels after the solvent has evaporated
and this is what tends to make them unreliable. This is something that's
been known for at least 25 years amongst free flighters.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |

Or one or more DU bushes are worn inside the wings.

Ask Streifender for advice, replacing them isn't too big a deal.
http://www.streifly.de/home-e.htm

GG

At 00:35 10 September 2016, JS wrote:
Thanks, JJ. So lubrication is the secret!
Something like LPS1 perhaps?
http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/560
Unsure if it's available in Britain.
Jim

On Saturday, September 10, 2016 at 8:50:47 AM UTC-4, Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Fri, 09 Sep 2016 17:35:08 -0700, JS wrote:

Thanks, JJ. So lubrication is the secret! Something like LPS1 perhaps?
http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/560 Unsure if it's available in
Britain.
Jim

Yep, LPS1 is available here via Amazon, though at about four times the
price of a similar sized can of WD-40. Is it really 4 times better?


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |

LSP1 and WD40 are two different things! WD40 is not to be used as a lubricant. it is a fluid designed to displace water (WD = water displacement, trial 40) and it creeps into frozen or corroded joints. It evaporates easily - spray some on an open surface and see how much is still there the next day.
LPS1 is more suited as a lubricant. It leaves a dry, lubricating Silicone film.
Uli

Are the airbrakes stiff over their whole range? Or is it just the over-centre that's difficult to overcome?

Nick.

On Saturday, September 10, 2016 at 5:57:03 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Friday, September 9, 2016 at 8:35:09 PM UTC-4, JS wrote:
Thanks, JJ. So lubrication is the secret!
Something like LPS1 perhaps?
http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/560
Unsure if it's available in Britain.
Jim

For gummy bearings I have found that a 1:1 mixture of light oil(3 in 1) and Marvel Mystery oil does a very good job of penetrating and softening up old dry lube. I use a small hypodermic needle to apply it.After operating to work some of the old crap out, lubricate with original type lube.
I don't like any kind of spray lube for the simple reason that it gets all over stuff that it was not intended to get on. Try to do a repair with spray lube crap all over.
FWIW
UH

Sorry for the delayed reply. Been "flieging" over the weekend.
With aerosols, try removing the spray nozzle and put a #10 nylon washer on before replacing the nozzle. Especially when using the nozzle extension tube it makes it easier to apply a small amount without getting it all over the place.
Yes. Marvel Mystery oil is a mysterious and fabulous thing.
Jim

On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 22:47:06 +0000, Gav Goudie wrote:

Or one or more DU bushes are worn inside the wings.

DU?

Ask Streifender for advice, replacing them isn't too big a deal.
http://www.streifly.de/home-e.htm

Will do. Thanks.



--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |

Hi JJ, you may just be able to save my life! I also have a standard Libelle with only 650 hours on it. But the airbrakes are really stiff and it is clear it is the gearbox in the wing roots. I have tried to get lubrication in there and failed and want to drill the 2mm holes. But, where exactly do I drill them and what lubricant would you recommend please