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#11
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Voltage variation
On Sep 23, 1:31 pm, Jay Honeck wrote:
I still haven't had time to work with my A&P to remove my (newly) flakey JPI EDM-700 unit. (As you may recall, some of the LED segments that make up the number display are going in and out.) Someone here suggested that it might be due to low voltage, possibly indicating an alternator problem. I've started watching the voltage, and have noticed something odd: The JPI has its own built-in voltage indicator. It will usually read 13.4 or 13.5 volts. We also have a stand-alone, panel-mounted digital voltage/amperage meter, mounted a few inches below the JPI. It usually reads a few tenths of a volt different than the JPI. (I can't remember if it's up or down...) a) Is this normal? Why would they read different voltages? b) What voltage is normal? Is 13.4 too low? Depends, is the landing light on? Few GA planes can maintain 14v with the landing light on. -Robert |
#12
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Voltage variation
Roy Smith wrote:
In article , wrote: If the JPI is coming out soon, it might be interesting to pull the other meter as well. Connect both of them to a 12 V battery sitting on a table - with the same gauge and lengths of wire - and see what they read. The bench test sounds fine, but the same gauge and lengths of wire part is kind of silly. Quite possibly. However, if I _don't_ say that, somebody will try this test with jumper cables for one meter and two 500 foot spools of 30 gauge wire for the other meter, and then write me an indignant email when they buy a new meter and its reading still doesn't match the other one. As for a reference voltage source, any reasonable DVM you can buy at Radio Shack fo $20 will be more than accurate enough for this kind of work. Precision is cheap. Accuracy costs a little more. Matt Roberds |
#13
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Voltage variation
Anytime you are looking for electrical problems, you need to keep in mind Ohm's Law. Voltage is equal to resistance times Current. Reading voltages at various places in the airplane gives you little information other than that the conductor is not entirely disconnected, unless you remember that current flow affects voltage drop. I once forgot this principle and spent money that didn't need spending. The strobe on the tail wasn't working, so I checked to see that there was power available to it by pulling the feed wire off, measuring the voltage there, and finding battery voltage. OK. Must be the strobe's power supply shot. Bought another ($500) and installed it. It didn't work, either. Then I remembered: E=IxR. With the strobe turned on (but not working, of course) I took voltage measurements at the bus (OK), at the circuit breaker's output input terminal (OK), at the breaker's output terminal (not OK!) and realized that the breaker was internally defective. There was full battery voltage there with the power supply disconnected, because the meter requires only a few microamps to drive it and the hundred ohms or so in the breaker's corroded contacts wasn't enough to drop the voltage to it. Connecting the power supply introduced a much lower resistance, increased the current demand to two or three amps, and caused a huge voltage drop so that the strobe was dead. The airplane needed a $15 breaker, not a $500 power supply. Dan |
#14
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Voltage variation
On Sep 24, 9:03 am, wrote:
Anytime you are looking for electrical problems, you need to keep in mind Ohm's Law. Voltage is equal to resistance times Current. Reading voltages at various places in the airplane gives you little information other than that the conductor is not entirely disconnected, unless you remember that current flow affects voltage drop. I once forgot this principle and spent money that didn't need spending. The strobe on the tail wasn't working, so I checked to see that there was power available to it by pulling the feed wire off, measuring the voltage there, and finding battery voltage. OK. Must be the strobe's power supply shot. Bought another ($500) and installed it. It didn't work, either. Then I remembered: E=IxR. With the strobe turned on (but not working, of course) I took voltage measurements at the bus (OK), at the circuit breaker's output input terminal (OK), at the breaker's output terminal (not OK!) and realized that the breaker was internally defective. There was full battery voltage there with the power supply disconnected, because the meter requires only a few microamps to drive it and the hundred ohms or so in the breaker's corroded contacts wasn't enough to drop the voltage to it. Connecting the power supply introduced a much lower resistance, increased the current demand to two or three amps, and caused a huge voltage drop so that the strobe was dead. The airplane needed a $15 breaker, not a $500 power supply. Dan I should add: Many batteries get replaced because the engine doesn't crank very well. You need to take voltage drop measurements across the master and starter solenoids while cranking; you'll often find that their contacts are burned and introducing resistance with the large current flow. Resistance checks mean nothing on these things; even a quarter ohm will cost a bunch of voltage, and with large current flows heat is generated, which increases the resistance further. Same goes for cable and terminal crimps and connections. Dan |
#15
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Voltage variation
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#16
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Voltage variation
Thinking more about Jay's undervoltage issue... I can't see why he can't do all the testing with the engine off. That's LOTS safer. Yes, he'll drain the battery slightly but we're talking only a few minutes here. He'll need a DVM. In my experience, even really cheap [as in $5 at Harbor Fright] DVMs seem to be surprizingly close. (But you can always test it. Ask your avionics shop to compare to their lab meter at 13v and see.) Then make a simple schematic: JPI 1-----------2breaker3---bus4----[master contactor]5-------6Battery+ and measure two ways; from each point to a known clean ground, and from one to another, such as 2-3, 3-5 etc. Each technique has its own advantages and disadvantages. "To ground" will be hard to see small drops; 'across' is twice as many good connections to make in tight places. But what you are looking for is: How much does the voltage drop from the battery along the way? With no/little load; the answer should be 0, no drop, even if there are bad connections. Under load, the voltage drop will be more visible. So the first thing needed is this: What is the voltage at 6, the battery post? And 1, where the other device connects? If the JPI (and the master relay) are the only thing on, and it's more than one volt of drop; I'd look deeper. If the battery is much less than 13.8v, with the master off; I'd wonder how it cranks the plane. -- A host is a host from coast to & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433 |
#17
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Voltage variation
David Lesher wrote:
I can't see why he can't do all the testing with the engine off. That's LOTS safer. Yes, he'll drain the battery slightly but we're talking only a few minutes here. The test results with engine on vs. engine off probably depend somewhat on where the battery is. If it's under the cowl, then engine on or off probably won't make that much difference - all of the battery-recharge current will be mostly under the cowl and won't affect the readings much. If the battery is back in the tail someplace, then I would expect more difference between engine on and engine off - there will be several amps flowing from the generator/alternator back to the battery, especially if the engine has just been started. Then make a simple schematic: JPI 1-----------2breaker3---bus4----[master contactor]5-------6Battery+ and measure two ways; from each point to a known clean ground, and from one to another, such as 2-3, 3-5 etc. The only thing I would add to this is to test both sides of everything, like: JPI1---2breaker3---4bus5---6[master contactor]7---8Battery+ This helps show if you've got bad contacts in the master contactor or on the bus. "To ground" will be hard to see small drops; 'across' is twice as many good connections to make in tight places. Tip: Get some heat-shrink tubing and cover up all but the last 0.1-0.2" (2-4 mm) of the meter probe tips. This helps prevent shorts when poking around in tight places. You can also do this with electrical tape, but the heat-shrink stays put better. If the battery is much less than 13.8v, with the master off; I'd wonder how it cranks the plane. I'd expect the voltage on a fully-charged battery to be something like 12.6 to 12.8 V. 12.3 or 12.4 might still crank the engine, but slowly. 12.0 or 12.1 is totally discharged. Disclaimer: This is based on experience with ground vehicles and equipment. I don't have an A&P; I don't even have a TG&Y. Your mileage may vary. Matt Roberds |
#18
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Voltage variation
My JPI routinely runs 13.4 - 13.5 in flight after initial charging at
13.6 - 13.8, no problems with display. |
#19
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Voltage variation
Paul kgyy wrote:
My JPI routinely runs 13.4 - 13.5 in flight after initial charging at 13.6 - 13.8, no problems with display. Mine is similar. Initial charge voltage is ~14.0 volts, drops to ~13.6 as charge rate decreases after start. It has never made sense to me, but I assume it is a characteristic of the voltage regulator. I believe it is a solid-state version, replaced several years ago. So far I've had no problems with my JPI 700, display or otherwise. It has been installed since 1998 in my Cessna R172K. Flown about 400 tach hours since that time. |
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