If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#31
|
|||
|
|||
Roger Long wrote:
The oil flow is the lifeblood of the whole engine however and proper viscosity is critical. Trying to pump molasses around until the combustion and friction (engine wearing out) heat warms it up enough to flow properly is what really screws up your engine. In the high cam Lycomings, the molasses also doesn't get up to the cams very well. And to add more fuel to the fire, recall that parts of the engine receive oil by "splash lubrication". You ever seen molasses splash? Me neither. Russell Kent |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
In article RT7qb.111063$HS4.961499@attbi_s01,
Jay Honeck wrote: In another few weeks, however, the temperatures will fall below 40, and mostly stay there for the next 10 weeks or so. From that point on, the heater will be on basically 24/7. So what do you cold-climate people do about oil when you're always preheating? Do you keep a multiweight oil in just for starts away from home? -- Ben Jackson http://www.ben.com/ |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
Ben Jackson wrote: So what do you cold-climate people do about oil when you're always preheating? Do you keep a multiweight oil in just for starts away from home? I use Phillips XC 20W-50 year round. Can't figure out why you'd use anything else. |
#34
|
|||
|
|||
I have the Reiff cylinder heaters and oil sump heater. Mine are for the narrow
deck engine, so each cylinder heater is 50W. I think the sump heater is 300W, so for my Six, a generator capable of at least 600W should work fine. I think most of the portable generators are good for about 1000W. Jay Honeck wrote: We have a 300 watt oil pan heater and the engine starts much better and oil temperature comes up faster than when we used the FBO's dragon. The size and weight of a portable generator that would power one of these is similar to the size and weight of a dragon. Why not buy the generator which would have all sorts of other uses? It's much easier on the fiberglass cowling, too. (I actually bubbled the paint on a rental bird, using one of those "stick it in the cowling" jet engine heaters...) However, it doesn't warm the cylinders at all. I wonder if a portable generator could power the cylinder warmers, too? We've got the oil pan and cylinder warmers, and the oil is usually warmer when we start up in winter (verified with our digital oil temperature gauge) than it is in spring and fall. -- Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Pathfinder N56993 www.AlexisParkInn.com "Your Aviation Destination" -- --Ray Andraka, P.E. President, the Andraka Consulting Group, Inc. 401/884-7930 Fax 401/884-7950 http://www.andraka.com "They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -Benjamin Franklin, 1759 |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
A pager operated one would be a cheaper service. I'm contemplating picking up a
cheap pager and wiring it to a box to do just that. Tanis sells a box that listens for the pager's beep, although it is pricey. Andrew Gideon wrote: Jay Honeck wrote: Of course, the rub is turning the danged thing on 3 hours in advance. Didn't someone rig up a "cell-phone-on/off-trigger" for their pre-heater last year? I remember thinking it was way cool, for those who don't have a hangar with electricity. (If you have a hangar, the best trigger, IMHO, is the temperature-sensitive cubes. They go "On" at 35 degrees, "Off" at 40 degrees...) My club has been looking at preheating solutions, and I wonder if this would fit. But there are some aspects about this solution about which I'm a little unclear. First, we're speaking of an electrical system that's powered by a portable generator, right? So the "on/off" mechanism would have to switch the generator on/off, right? Is temperature really the right solution? I kind of like the cell-phone idea. It seems inefficient to keep the engine warm against bitter cold that's so bitter nobody's willing to visit the airplane. More than inefficient, though: what about fuel for the generator? If the generator is on for "a while", won't it eventually run out of fuel? That would be an annoying thing to learn only when one wanted to fly and found a cold aircraft when a warm one was expected. Is there some commercial source for cellular on/off switches? Or did someone ever post instructions for building one? Thanks... Andrew -- --Ray Andraka, P.E. President, the Andraka Consulting Group, Inc. 401/884-7930 Fax 401/884-7950 http://www.andraka.com "They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -Benjamin Franklin, 1759 |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
Ben Jackson wrote: Do you keep a multiweight oil in just for starts away from home? I keep multi-grade in all year. I have a few friends who change grades with the season, and there are always periods during Fall or Spring when they can't fly because it's too warm or too cold and they either changed the oil too soon or haven't changed it yet. That said, my pre-heater is portable, and I carry it with me if I expect to need it. I think it is no longer in production, though. George Patterson If you're not part of the solution, you can make a lot of money prolonging the problem. |
#37
|
|||
|
|||
I use Phillips XC 20W-50 year round. Can't figure out why you'd use
anything else. I use Aeroshell 20W-50 year round, too. Same here -- I can't figure out why you WOULDN'T use a multi-grade all the time. Sure, it's a bit more expensive, but it covers all your bases. -- Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Pathfinder N56993 www.AlexisParkInn.com "Your Aviation Destination" |
#38
|
|||
|
|||
First, we're speaking of an electrical system that's powered by a portable
generator, right? So the "on/off" mechanism would have to switch the generator on/off, right? Actually, in my case, no. My cube is turning on the electrically power pre-heaters on my plane, using the electricity in my hangar. No generator needed. However, the original poster is looking for a portable, outdoors-parked-on-the-ramp solution. The temperature cube wouldn't work for that, AFAIK. -- Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Pathfinder N56993 www.AlexisParkInn.com "Your Aviation Destination" |
#39
|
|||
|
|||
"Jay Honeck" wrote in message news:iNVpb.107048$Fm2.91449@attbi_s04... Say Jay, isn't it also time for the annual "To hand turn the prop or not to turn the prop before starting a cold engine party" ? Nope. You absolutely, 100% convinced us all of the lunacy of THAT old wive's tale... :-) -- Jay Honeck Wive's tale? Certainly turning the prop doesn't do anything to "loosen" the oil, as is sometimes claimed, but I do pump the throttle, turn all the switches off, etc and then turn the prop by hand on cold mornings. I figure it moves some of the mixture into the cylinders, as opposed to trying to start the engine with the extremely lean mixture that is already in the cylinders. Also, I back the prop off so the starter doesn't have to overcome engine compression for the first 1/2 prop revolution. I figure the additional rotational velocity will help to get that first or second cylinder to fire. KB |
#40
|
|||
|
|||
"Newps" wrote in message news:lheqb.113991$Fm2.101147@attbi_s04... Ben Jackson wrote: So what do you cold-climate people do about oil when you're always preheating? Do you keep a multiweight oil in just for starts away from home? I use Phillips XC 20W-50 year round. Can't figure out why you'd use anything else. Maybe because in the bird I normally fly, the manufacturer says ONLY Mobil 254 or, in an emergency, Exxon 2380. :~) |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Lycoming intake preheater | Dale Larsen | Home Built | 5 | June 6th 04 10:32 PM |