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#1
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hard wax application
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it
on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!) I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is there a technique writeup on the web somewhere? ~ted/2NO |
#2
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hard wax application
Tuno wrote:
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to The short answer: If you have to ask, don't do it! Those machines can do a *lot* of damage in the hands of the unskilled. |
#3
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hard wax application
Start slow. Take your time. And stay away from edges. Do them by hand using
paste and an orbital polisher. By the way, even though it's called "hard wax," you are not waxing. You are applying polish to produce a mirror glaze. You will need a means of holding the bar on end to apply the polish to the buffing pad. As on the sailplane, go slow. Impatience will prove all the nay sayers right! As with any power tool, there is a potential for harm, so think through what you're doing first. If the cynics make you uncertain, just remember that M&H pays Harris Hill juniors (high schoolers) to polish gliders with the same equipment. Wear a mask and protect your eyes. The abrasive gets everywhere... in very fine particles. Choose a small section of the sailplane to work to completion so you can see how much effort is needed. Vertical fin (not the rudder) is a good place to learn to handle the polishing wheel. I think you'll be surprised (and very pleased) with the results. I find it handy to have 800/1000/1500 grit sand paper at hand to work areas that are especially rough. Wet sand, rinse, and dry before polishing. You may want to seal your handiwork afterwards. I recommend Mother's natural carnuba (no silicone). You don't need to slather... just a little will do the trick. "Tuno" wrote in message ... I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!) I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is there a technique writeup on the web somewhere? ~ted/2NO |
#4
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hard wax application
On Apr 20, 8:43*am, Tuno wrote:
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!) I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is there a technique writeup on the web somewhere? ~ted/2NO I put my block of hard wax, and the dealer supplied buffing wheel, in a closet in the garage and used Wx block. Andy |
#5
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hard wax application
It is very important to seal the surface of your fiberglass glider. Moisture does evil things to gelcoat. Many years ago, we contacted Mother's Gold, one of the major suppliers of automobile paste wax. It was advertised as 100% pure carnuba wax. We bought a can. The product was very soft so it could be applied by hand. We asked what is in their product? Yes, the wax is pure carnuba, but there were 40% undesirable things to make it soft. I explained what are needs are for fiberglass gliders. Some years later, they called me to announce a new product. It is called Mother's Gold, "Natural Formula." It has a small amount of non- harmful softener (it is still pretty hard) but can easily be applied by hand or machine. We sell a lot of it to glider pilots, and as with all gliderports, we appreciate your support. Tom Knauff Knauff & Grove Soaring Supplies Ridge Soaring Gliderport http://www.eglider.org 814-355-2483 |
#6
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hard wax application
Tuno wrote:
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!) I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is there a technique writeup on the web somewhere? Isn't this a brand new glider? My understanding is it should have plenty of wax on it for now. Maybe check with the dealer or the factory first. I assume you are after gel coat protection, and not a shiny glider, since it's already very shiny. Considering the problems an improperly used polisher can cause (damaged control surfaces, overheated skin, etc), I suggest you find someone that knows how to do it and have them give you a lesson, like Robert Mudd, or fly JJ out for day, learn lots, then send him off in the morning. Hey, maybe he could give a class on polishing and more, charge $50/head for the day, and go home smiling with a few hundred dollars in his pocket. -- Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA * Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly * Updated! "Transponders in Sailplanes" http://tinyurl.com/y739x4 * New Jan '08 - sections on Mode S, TPAS, ADS-B, Flarm, more * "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org |
#7
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hard wax application
On Apr 20, 8:43�am, Tuno wrote:
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!) I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is there a technique writeup on the web somewhere? ~ted/2NO You need a special buffing wheel and a lot of patience. I started on a Pegasus wing and about half way through I figured there had to be an easier way. I tried 3M Finesse-It II and was much happier with the application and finish. Everything that's been said is right on but I'll add that the hard bar stuff is abrassive and designed for finishes that are in rough shape. Since it's a cutting material you would not want to apply it to a new glider's gel coat. Mike |
#8
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hard wax application
Mike,
Finesse-It II is a polishing material. It removes surface to make it smoother. I used it on my V2C to remove lime deposits. It's great stuff. Hard wax has some abrassive content but it is primarily a wax, not a polish -- it fills in tiny holes in the surface, which polishers do not do. This serves to protect the gelcoat from moisture, which is my primary concern, not making it smoother. I'm trying to optimize my speed 5 and 10 years from now, not go faster tomorrow. I am shocked, SHOCKED I tell you, that some people replying to my OP suggest that power tools might harm my glider. Really?! Next time I'm at the dentist, I'm going to tell him to crank that sucker by hand! An open question is whether my glider received an application of hard wax at the factory before they sent it out the door. (My wife's Toyota did not.) If so, I'm not going to worry about this until the off season. If not, I want to do what is prudent and appropriate to protect my investment. A8: thank you for the e-mail -- good stuff! 2NO |
#9
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hard wax application
On Apr 20, 10:43*am, Tuno wrote:
I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is there a technique writeup on the web somewhere? ~ted/2NO I am sort of surprized that nobody else has said this, but I think 3000 RPM is WAY too fast. Try to keep it to 1200 or less. And is what you got one of those random orbit things (junk, in my opinion) or a pure rotating buffing wheel? I used 3M stuff (Super Duty Rubbing Compound, followed by Finese-it II) on a rather oxidized 18 meter ship. It had been re-finished back in 1989 with Prestec, and put in the trailer until I bought it in 2006. It was stored near Minden. After the 3M stuff to get it shiny again, I used Wx Seal and Wx Block. The 3M stuff and the first Wx product was applied with my power buffer, the second Wx by hand and everything was hand wiped after with clean white towels. Each side of each wing took me about one hour on each product with the buffer or hand application, and about an hour with the towels hand cleaning and buffing afterwords. In my opinion, the wings on that 39 year old BS1 looked as good an anything new coming out of the factories. OK, they are thick and wide compared to your 29, and a bunch heavier, but I think they look fantastic! Each process had its own buffing pad, and its own towels for applying and buffing. I still have to do the fuselage. I would agree with Andy, and get to work applying Wx Seal and Wx Block. And, if I can ever get around to it, I have a bunch of other planes I need to get around to polishing and sealing. Steve Leonard Wichita, KS |
#10
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hard wax application
Tuno wrote:
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!) I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is there a technique writeup on the web somewhere? ~ted/2NO Ted: I like Harly Wax. It is a moderately hard carnuba in a can. Application by hand is moderately easy. It seems to have little if any solvents. Twice a year does the trick. Wax it with sealing tape in place or they won't stick after waxing. I have found it only on the internet at www.harlywax.com. His service is excellent. Paul ZZ |
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