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  #11  
Old February 10th 06, 03:21 AM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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Steve adds a small doubler to the factory part, which adds a bit of extra
metal thickness to the first two rivets and which should reduce the
likelihood of it happening again.


He can do this without a Factory Mod or Field 337? adding metal to the
bracket?
I know he can change the part.

BT


  #12  
Old February 10th 06, 02:03 PM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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In your 235 you can slide the passenger seat up to about the 2nd to
closest position and then fold the seat back forward and lean it up
against the yoke. Play with the seat position and you will find the
one that looks like it was designed to do this. Been doing this for
about 6 years w/o any problems.


Before we got the seats re-done in leather, that worked pretty well.

Now, they're too "tight" or something -- they won't stay leaned forward
against the yoke. We've tinkered with leaning the seat forward, and
buckling the seat belt behind it, but finally said "to heck with it" and
went to lunch...
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"


  #13  
Old February 12th 06, 05:04 PM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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On Fri, 10 Feb 2006 13:03:52 GMT, "Jay Honeck"
wrote:

In your 235 you can slide the passenger seat up to about the 2nd to
closest position and then fold the seat back forward and lean it up
against the yoke. Play with the seat position and you will find the
one that looks like it was designed to do this. Been doing this for
about 6 years w/o any problems.


Before we got the seats re-done in leather, that worked pretty well.

Now, they're too "tight" or something -- they won't stay leaned forward
against the yoke. We've tinkered with leaning the seat forward, and
buckling the seat belt behind it, but finally said "to heck with it" and
went to lunch...



Well, it was worth a shot. Maybe eventually the seats will wear in.

z
  #14  
Old February 12th 06, 06:06 PM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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Ummmm... I DONT like the sound of this..

I NEVER felt good about the seat belt "gust lock", racking the
controls hard against the stops like that..

I got one of the locks made by
"Airplane Things" (they advertise in Piper Cherokee group magazine)

Clean and neat, very secure and dosn't "rack" the ailerons against the
stops..
..
For a whole 35 'merican bucks..

Works great!

(and no, I don't own the company)

Dave

On Thu, 09 Feb 2006 12:22:04 GMT, wrote:

On Tue, 7 Feb 2006 18:39:53 -0500, "Bob Chilcoat"
wrote:

My Hershey-Bar wing Archer is in for annual. Today they found a crack in
the left wing aileron bellcrank support. Sounds dangerous. It's going to
need replacing. Any idea if this is as big a job as it sounds like? Will
the wing skins need to come off? Anyplace I can find a drawing of the
structure online? Thanks.


Sorry I missed this yesterday, but it sounds like your guy's got
things figured out.

We use to keep a couple of OEM doublers & inspection panels in stock
for access on constant-chord Pipers. Way back when there were
instructions in the maint. manual that essentially told you if you
maintained the "factory" spacing from other structural components, you
could add an access panel if you needed to.

Of course, as you found out, popping a fuel tank gives quite a bit of
access.

Honestly, the only bellcrank brackets I can remember changing was on
an ooooold PA28 (both sides were cracked), am thinking that they were
a slightly different design than yours.

Really sucks that I'm forgetting some of this stuff. if you don't use
it-you lose it I guess.

Only real excitement I've had lately was a hung-start yesterday
afternoon. Freakin' turbines do spoil you, it's real easy to get used
to flipping a switch and watching the dumb thing start itself...

TC


  #15  
Old February 12th 06, 09:49 PM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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I got one of the locks made by
"Airplane Things" (they advertise in Piper Cherokee group magazine)


Do they have a website?
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"


  #16  
Old February 14th 06, 02:10 AM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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Yes....

Try.....

http://www.airplanethings.com/

Cannot order on line, but can DL a PDF order form..

I'm impatient, so I called them, they shipped same day. Good quality,
works as advertised.

Holds Ailerons neutral, Stabilator full down.

Dave



Hadda call them (toll free) On Sun, 12 Feb 2006 20:49:20 GMT, "Jay
Honeck" wrote:

I got one of the locks made by
"Airplane Things" (they advertise in Piper Cherokee group magazine)


Do they have a website?


  #17  
Old February 14th 06, 05:44 AM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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Try.....

http://www.airplanethings.com/


Boy, there's not much too it. Looks like something we could make, no?

(Mary's already made custom-fitted nose-blankets from cheap sleeping bags
and velcro that are better than anything I've seen. Cost: $18 plus labor.
And we made a set of our own window reflectors from a roll of silver
air-bubble insulation that are as good as anything I've seen. Cost: $10,
plus labor.)
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"


  #18  
Old February 15th 06, 03:40 AM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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Agreed...

But by the time I scrounged up the stuff needed, and measured etc.
etc...

The price is modest, and it is high quality and works /looks great..
Cheers!

Nice product.. IMHO

Dave




On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 04:44:38 GMT, "Jay Honeck"
wrote:

Try.....

http://www.airplanethings.com/


Boy, there's not much too it. Looks like something we could make, no?

(Mary's already made custom-fitted nose-blankets from cheap sleeping bags
and velcro that are better than anything I've seen. Cost: $18 plus labor.
And we made a set of our own window reflectors from a roll of silver
air-bubble insulation that are as good as anything I've seen. Cost: $10,
plus labor.)


  #19  
Old February 16th 06, 12:41 AM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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I didn't ask about how he can do this without some sort of approval. I was
actually more interested in whether or not this extra metal will transfer
the weakest point to the rib from the bracket. Ribs are a lot more
difficult to replace. OTOH, it took 32 years and over 6,000 hours for the
crack to develop in the bracket, so it doesn't seem to be a major problem.

--
Bob (Chief Pilot, White Knuckle Airways)


"BTIZ" wrote in message
news:aMSGf.57101$V.35747@fed1read04...
Steve adds a small doubler to the factory part, which adds a bit of extra
metal thickness to the first two rivets and which should reduce the
likelihood of it happening again.


He can do this without a Factory Mod or Field 337? adding metal to the
bracket?
I know he can change the part.

BT



  #20  
Old February 18th 06, 11:08 PM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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Default Ping: Toecutter

Jay Honeck wrote:
Just curious -- what kind of "gust lock" do you use on your Cherokee?


$1.50 pin with a big ring on one end (Lowes). Big "Remove Before
Flight" banner attached. Works like a charm. Then again, the control
column and plastic housing have a hole drilled through them (like the
typical Brand-C plane). I've heard that some Pipers had a similar gust
lock as Brand-C but I've never seen one.

The strap that holds both yokes together and snaps to the throttle
quadrant seems to work ok (used one on a rental Archer before we bought
the Arrow). More play in the controls than I'd like but I'd use one of
them as opposed to the seat belt trick


--
Jack Allison
PP-ASEL-IA Student
Arrow N2104T

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the Earth
with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there
you will always long to return"
- Leonardo Da Vinci

(Remove the obvious from address to reply via e-mail)
 




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