Gelcoat Sanding

A friend of mine in the auto body business turned me on to 3M Dry Guide Coat, and I'm a huge fan. Used to use leftover rattle can paint and/or pencil, but this stuff is much better. It goes on dry, gets down into the pinholes and crannies, and doesn't clog the paper when you sand (if anything, I think it's a lubricant). Plus, you can get it out with some mild solvent (like Prep Kleen). Note: That's for wet-sanding new paint to get rid of the orange peel or identify low spots etc. What Andy is talking about is different, since it's failed/failing gelcoat. FWIW.

agreed! i love guide coat too. it shows EVERYTHING, even bad sanding technique, or a dinged up block.

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 4:50:16 PM UTC-4, Papa3 wrote:
A friend of mine in the auto body business turned me on to 3M Dry Guide Coat, and I'm a huge fan. Used to use leftover rattle can paint and/or pencil, but this stuff is much better. It goes on dry, gets down into the pinholes and crannies, and doesn't clog the paper when you sand (if anything, I think it's a lubricant). Plus, you can get it out with some mild solvent (like Prep Kleen). Note: That's for wet-sanding new paint to get rid of the orange peel or identify low spots etc. What Andy is talking about is different, since it's failed/failing gelcoat. FWIW.

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 2:07:12 PM UTC-7, ND wrote:
agreed! i love guide coat too. it shows EVERYTHING, even bad sanding technique, or a dinged up block.

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 4:50:16 PM UTC-4, Papa3 wrote:
A friend of mine in the auto body business turned me on to 3M Dry Guide Coat, and I'm a huge fan. Used to use leftover rattle can paint and/or pencil, but this stuff is much better. It goes on dry, gets down into the pinholes and crannies, and doesn't clog the paper when you sand (if anything, I think it's a lubricant). Plus, you can get it out with some mild solvent (like Prep Kleen). Note: That's for wet-sanding new paint to get rid of the orange peel or identify low spots etc. What Andy is talking about is different, since it's failed/failing gelcoat. FWIW.

Check this out (I also posted on the Trizact thread):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ke5kfYz9Ybw

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 12:19:48 AM UTC-4, 2G wrote:
On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 2:07:12 PM UTC-7, ND wrote:
agreed! i love guide coat too. it shows EVERYTHING, even bad sanding technique, or a dinged up block.

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 4:50:16 PM UTC-4, Papa3 wrote:
A friend of mine in the auto body business turned me on to 3M Dry Guide Coat, and I'm a huge fan. Used to use leftover rattle can paint and/or pencil, but this stuff is much better. It goes on dry, gets down into the pinholes and crannies, and doesn't clog the paper when you sand (if anything, I think it's a lubricant). Plus, you can get it out with some mild solvent (like Prep Kleen). Note: That's for wet-sanding new paint to get rid of the orange peel or identify low spots etc. What Andy is talking about is different, since it's failed/failing gelcoat. FWIW.

Check this out (I also posted on the Trizact thread):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ke5kfYz9Ybw

Note the sanding pattern demonstrated which is like what I was trying to describe above.
We use the 3M compounds and polishes for paint but use edge buffer applied hard wax/rouge for final buff and to impregnate/seal the gelcoat which has a lot of porosity.
UH