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#11
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"Jay Honeck" wrote in message news: Were all the bolts lose, or just one?
As for what we could visualize, just the one bolt appears loose. The mechanic who installed the jugs has said: "I torqued them to specification and have the paperwork to prove my wrench is correct." He has advised us to tighten it up and see if will seat and stay tight. If not, the engine comes apart to helicoil the receiving end for the thru bolt, is what I'm told. Greg Hopp |
#12
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Tina Marie wrote in message ...
With that said, you have two choices he A) Put a torque wrench on it, tighten it and then fly it. Torque settings are in the Lycoming Direct Drive Overhaul Manual (~$17 for a reprint from Aircraft Spruce, or find the equivalent Continental publication). Check it every few hours. B) Take it to your A&P. He will pull out his torque wrench, his copy of the Lycoming Direct Drive Overhaul Manual, tighen it, and tell you to check it every few hours. It's up to you. Tina Marie Tripacer N3653P The on-field mechanic says, from a liability standpoint, he's going to crack and retorque each and every nut on all four jugs. 8-10 hrs labor. Another (off field) mechanic says, if the nut won't tighten, we're into a whole different issue wherein the case will need to be split, sent out and the threads repaired (helicoil?) inside the case. Now, what is otherwise a simple job costs a couple grand for the labor alone. Greg H. Cols, OH |
#13
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Orval Fairbairn wrote in message:
According to my Lycomung Overhaul Manual, the cylinder torque settings a Thanks for your help Orval. We're going to the hangar tomorrow night with a borrowed torque wrench for some testing. Greg H. Cols, OH |
#14
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The torque should have been checked after 25 or 50 hours. Your
mechanic should have specified this. Instead he throws meaningless certifications at you. If he's studious enough to have his wrenches checked, why didn't he tell you about retorquing, or even use a bit of torque seal on the nuts? In any event, stop crying, have the cylinder retorqued (all the nuts/bolts) use torque seal and have them rechecked and torqued in 25 hours. On 17 Feb 2004 07:10:45 -0800, (Greg Hopp) wrote: "Jay Honeck" wrote in message news: Were all the bolts lose, or just one? As for what we could visualize, just the one bolt appears loose. The mechanic who installed the jugs has said: "I torqued them to specification and have the paperwork to prove my wrench is correct." He has advised us to tighten it up and see if will seat and stay tight. If not, the engine comes apart to helicoil the receiving end for the thru bolt, is what I'm told. Greg Hopp |
#15
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#16
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"Paul Sengupta" wrote in message . ..
"Orval Fairbairn" wrote in message news .. Tightening sequence: (1/2" first) This is something I was thinking of. What happens if one comes loose? Should you just tighten it to thee correct torque, or should the others be loosened then all tightened in sequence? Maybe even replacing the gasket? (don't know about gaskets...I would only guess as to the presence of one) Paul Some of those nuts are on studs that pass through the case to hold it together and to keep the main bearings tight in their bores. A loosened stud could allow the bearing to rotate a bit if it didn't have a locating pin in it. Can't remember if the O-200 has one. I know that the Lycs do. I've seen a centre main rotate in an O-200 while the cylinders were off and someone rotated the prop. Everything jammed real tight when we retorqued it. Rotated bearings cut off their oil supply ports and don't last long. Dan |
#17
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#18
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"Paul Sengupta" wrote in
Should you just tighten it to thee correct torque, or should the others be loosened then all tightened in sequence? Maybe even replacing the gasket? Paul Paul: The first mech. I talked to was adamant. It was his butt on the line liability wise, and if I wanted him to do the job, he was going to break all the nuts and retorque everything, estimating 8-10 hrs labor. He also mentioned a "one time seal" that would then likely be a leak candidate as a result, but he wasn't going to do it any other way. Greg H. Cols., OH "First timer, always learning" |
#20
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Your first mechanic is an idiot but he is going to give you the shaft
for HIS error. There is some difference in the break away torque of a bolt that has sat with a preload on it and one that you are tightening to a specified torque. It takes MORE torque than that specified to start the nut turning if that nut has sat with a preload for more than a second. You can be assured that if the nut turns when the specified torque is applied then it is NOT torqued to the specified amount and needs to be loosened and retorqued. The most common cause of cylinder bolts getting loose is PAINT or dirt under the cylinder flange. These bolts are critical and must have the required torque. If you loosen only one nut at a time you should not have to replace the seal but if you loosen all of the nuts at the same time then there is a good chance that it will leak because the cylinder will move. On 17 Feb 2004 18:02:35 -0800, (Greg Hopp) wrote: "Paul Sengupta" wrote in Should you just tighten it to thee correct torque, or should the others be loosened then all tightened in sequence? Maybe even replacing the gasket? Paul Paul: The first mech. I talked to was adamant. It was his butt on the line liability wise, and if I wanted him to do the job, he was going to break all the nuts and retorque everything, estimating 8-10 hrs labor. He also mentioned a "one time seal" that would then likely be a leak candidate as a result, but he wasn't going to do it any other way. Greg H. Cols., OH "First timer, always learning" |
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