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Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 25th 16, 04:51 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?
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  #2  
Old March 25th 16, 05:08 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
2G
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 8:51:10 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?


I used to own a 19 many years ago and am trying to picture the bolt that you are talking about. Posting a photo someplace else would help my memory.

Tom
  #3  
Old March 25th 16, 05:52 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
JS
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 8:51:10 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?


If it's the same as some other Schleicher rudders I've sworn at:
Hold the bolt near the bottom with long needle nose pliers. Access through the cutout in the right side of the rudder with the rudder hard left. If it works the first time, buy a lottery ticket.
Jim

  #4  
Old March 25th 16, 06:15 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

I got it. I was about to invest in the long needle nose pliers. But that would have to be tomorrow, and I wanted to drop that bolt in today. So this was the trick. Straighten out a clothes hanger. Then put a 90 degree bend in the last 1/2 inch. Then use a small rubber band to hold the bolt onto the wire. Now you can use the long wire to drop the bolt into the hinge.. It took a couple of tries, but it's better than having to buy a new tool.. Or, maybe not..... I do like buying tools.
  #5  
Old March 25th 16, 06:49 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 1:15:43 AM UTC-4, wrote:
I got it. I was about to invest in the long needle nose pliers. But that would have to be tomorrow, and I wanted to drop that bolt in today. So this was the trick. Straighten out a clothes hanger. Then put a 90 degree bend in the last 1/2 inch. Then use a small rubber band to hold the bolt onto the wire. Now you can use the long wire to drop the bolt into the hinge. It took a couple of tries, but it's better than having to buy a new tool. Or, maybe not..... I do like buying tools.


A length of ~.020" SS safety wire wrapped a turn or 2 around the bolt just under the head, fish bolt into hole.
Once it's engaged into the hole, pull wire out (it will unwind itself) and tap bolt the rest of the way in.

Works great on the field where you may be tool limited.
;-)
  #6  
Old March 25th 16, 11:41 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
krasw
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Friday, 25 March 2016 05:51:10 UTC+2, wrote:
Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?


As others have written, try first which side access hole is bigger, it is not necessarily symmetrical. I've done it with long needle pliers or bent steel wire, and after ten annuals I'm pretty good at it. First tries took hours.

Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt. Even writing about it gets my blood pressure up.
  #7  
Old March 25th 16, 12:23 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Karl Striedieck[_2_]
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

You need to first align the holes in the rudder and its bracket. Find a long rod the diameter of the 10mm bolt and insert that part way from the bottom. Then use forceps to push the bolt down.
  #8  
Old March 25th 16, 02:27 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

John,

What you need are a pair of extended reach glidernutboltistats. I recommend buying 2. One to keep at the airport and one at home. Here is a link to a picture.

http://daziv.com/gliderdolly/tool.jpg

Since you live in Houston, the easiest thing is to go over to EPO (Electronic Parts Outlet) on Fondren. The specialty glider tool section is over on isle 7 just past the flux capacitors. Everything in that section is made from Pakistan stainless. I think the item shown was under $20 (even though it's worth $200 for a -19 rudder project).

Mark
  #9  
Old March 25th 16, 04:49 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
JS
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 6:27:45 AM UTC-7, wrote:
John,

What you need are a pair of extended reach glidernutboltistats. I recommend buying 2. One to keep at the airport and one at home. Here is a link to a picture.

http://daziv.com/gliderdolly/tool.jpg

Since you live in Houston, the easiest thing is to go over to EPO (Electronic Parts Outlet) on Fondren. The specialty glider tool section is over on isle 7 just past the flux capacitors. Everything in that section is made from Pakistan stainless. I think the item shown was under $20 (even though it's worth $200 for a -19 rudder project).

Mark


Excellent, Mark!
Unsure of Pakistani stainless steel, even after working near the Pakistan Steel works E of Karachi. Did try to buy a hat made in Pakistan, but the fellow in the shop said "let me get you a better hat". It was made in China.
So even a glider pilot may want to upgrade to the Chinese glidernutboltistats at the far end of aisle 7, bottom left.
Jim
  #10  
Old March 25th 16, 05:33 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
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Default Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

Le vendredi 25 mars 2016 11:41:58 UTC+1, krasw a écrit*:
Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt. Even writing about it gets my blood pressure up.


I suppose you are talking about the transverse bolt through the "swivel block" in the nose? I assume it's the same as on the ASW-20... Normally, you don't have to unscrew that bolt (you might well have to cut a hole through the side of the nose to take it out). If you undo the bolt at the rear of the spring (canopy side), the gas spring can then be unscrewed from the front "swivel block". That block is tapped for the M8 plunger end, it is not integral with the plunger.

The problem is rather to compress the new gas spring to put it in place. This is the contraption we used last year:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../photo%201.JPG
 




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