Continental A-65 engine stall?

Bob wrote:
To All:

Annd if
you've done like most of us and wrapped an over-stretched screen-door
spring around the exhaust stack, odds are it rusted itself into FOD
during the Eisenhower administration.



-R.S.Hoover

Yes, I was concerned about the doorsprings corroding and breaking pieces
off to be ingested into the carburetor since there isn't any sort of
filter in the "warm" air path between the heat muff and the carb airbox...

One thing that is different on my system now (since my recent top
overhaul) is the addition of an air inlet on the engine baffle between
the nosebowl and the cylinder (pilot side) with tubing running from it
to the heat muff. My old system just had the inlet pipe of the Aeronca
heat muff unconnected to anything and I noticed that the aluminum heat
muff looked like it had melted a bit where it was contacting the exhaust
pipe so I added the cool air inlet to help cool the heat muff a bit.
Maybe it cools it too much and I'm just not getting enough heat, so
increasing the surface area sounds like a good idea...just unsure of the
method. I know I DO NOT want FOD running into the carb as that is SURE
to cause the engine to react [not so] funny



Scott

Scott wrote:
Yes, I was concerned about the doorsprings corroding and breaking pieces
off to be ingested into the carburetor since there isn't any sort of
filter in the "warm" air path between the heat muff and the carb airbox...

A stainless steel screen should be a standard item over the air intake
on any engine if you are running without a filter. You never know when
something too big to be ingested will get sucked in.

Tony

"Scott" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:
To All:

Annd if
you've done like most of us and wrapped an over-stretched screen-door
spring around the exhaust stack, odds are it rusted itself into FOD
during the Eisenhower administration.


-R.S.Hoover

Yes, I was concerned about the doorsprings corroding and breaking pieces
off to be ingested into the carburetor since there isn't any sort of
filter in the "warm" air path between the heat muff and the carb airbox...

One thing that is different on my system now (since my recent top
overhaul) is the addition of an air inlet on the engine baffle between the
nosebowl and the cylinder (pilot side) with tubing running from it to the
heat muff. My old system just had the inlet pipe of the Aeronca heat muff
unconnected to anything and I noticed that the aluminum heat muff looked
like it had melted a bit where it was contacting the exhaust pipe so I
added the cool air inlet to help cool the heat muff a bit. Maybe it cools
it too much and I'm just not getting enough heat, so increasing the
surface area sounds like a good idea...just unsure of the method. I know
I DO NOT want FOD running into the carb as that is SURE to cause the
engine to react [not so] funny



Scott

Aha!

I read your post this morning and didn't think much about it at the time;
but but it now occurs to me that the cooling air gains a lot of heat passing
through the cooling fins of the engine--so that you may have created your
own problem by sending cold outside air directly into the heat muff.

Just a thought.

Peter

On Jul 13, 3:33 pm, "Peter Dohm" wrote:

Aha!

I read your post this morning and didn't think much about it at the time;
but but it now occurs to me that the cooling air gains a lot of heat passing
through the cooling fins of the engine--so that you may have created your
own problem by sending cold outside air directly into the heat muff.

Just a thought.

Peter

And since those Aeronca muffs tend to leak a lot, forcing air into
them might cool the pipe too much just when the heat is needed. The OP
needs to seal up those muffs. The connection to the baffling needs to
stay, since a muffed pipe with no airflow (except when carb heat is
on) will overheat and burn out. Piper had plenty of that sort of
trouble on their Cherokees.

The OP gets a 50 RPM drop in cruise, with carb heat. That ain't
much.

Dan

wrote:


And since those Aeronca muffs tend to leak a lot, forcing air into
them might cool the pipe too much just when the heat is needed. The OP
needs to seal up those muffs. The connection to the baffling needs to
stay, since a muffed pipe with no airflow (except when carb heat is
on) will overheat and burn out. Piper had plenty of that sort of
trouble on their Cherokees.

The OP gets a 50 RPM drop in cruise, with carb heat. That ain't
much.

Dan

Actually, my muffs fit fairly "airtight" around the exhaust pipes. I
actually had to cut and trim a bit to make them fit at all, so I think
the majority of the heat produced is captured inside the muff. However,
I just don't think the two halves of aluminum have enough thermal mass
to provide a ton of heat to the carb, so I think I still need to come up
with a safe way to add mass inside the muff.

Scott

On Jul 13, 9:09 pm, Scott wrote:

Actually, my muffs fit fairly "airtight" around the exhaust pipes. I
actually had to cut and trim a bit to make them fit at all, so I think
the majority of the heat produced is captured inside the muff. However,
I just don't think the two halves of aluminum have enough thermal mass
to provide a ton of heat to the carb, so I think I still need to come up
with a safe way to add mass inside the muff.

Scott

The Aeronca muff often involved a deflector plate, attached to a small
strut across the pipe vee, that prevented the air from travelling
straight across the chamber from the inlet to the outlet. The
deflector made the air flow around the pipes to get from one side to
the other. Lots more heat. Does your have that?

Dan

wrote

The Aeronca muff often involved a deflector plate, attached to a small
strut across the pipe vee, that prevented the air from travelling
straight across the chamber from the inlet to the outlet. The
deflector made the air flow around the pipes to get from one side to
the other. Lots more heat. Does your have that?

How about a diverter shaped to make the air corkscrew around the pipe?
--
Jim in NC

Scott wrote:
wrote:


And since those Aeronca muffs tend to leak a lot, forcing air into
them might cool the pipe too much just when the heat is needed. The OP
needs to seal up those muffs. The connection to the baffling needs to
stay, since a muffed pipe with no airflow (except when carb heat is
on) will overheat and burn out. Piper had plenty of that sort of
trouble on their Cherokees.

The OP gets a 50 RPM drop in cruise, with carb heat. That ain't
much.

Dan

Actually, my muffs fit fairly "airtight" around the exhaust pipes. I
actually had to cut and trim a bit to make them fit at all, so I think
the majority of the heat produced is captured inside the muff. However,
I just don't think the two halves of aluminum have enough thermal mass
to provide a ton of heat to the carb, so I think I still need to come up
with a safe way to add mass inside the muff.

Scott


Door spring wrapped around the pipe?

See Tony Bingles books...

cavelamb schreef:

See Tony Bingles books...

Confusing dear old Tony with dearer older Capt. James Bigglesworth?

jan olieslagers wrote:
cavelamb schreef:

See Tony Bingles books...

Confusing dear old Tony with dearer older Capt. James Bigglesworth?


Capt. James Bigglesworth?
Never heard of him!