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#21
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1-26 for first glider, or not?
Two words: Open Cockpit!
Get one with a sports canopy and really enjoy that "retro" feel. Seriously, to me that is the best way to enjoy the 1-26 (although it can get expensive in lost ballcaps...). Kirk 66 |
#22
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1-26 for first glider, or not?
On Nov 12, 7:36*am, tstock wrote:
I know I will get replies on each end of the spectrum... but for a first glider, low time pilot, it seems like a 1-26 would be a good choice. *Easy to fly, easy to land in tight spaces, cheap to maintain, and very common and there are a few 1-26 groups, so help is available. *It's inexpensive (well under $10,000 USD, more like $6K). I happen to like "old" stuff, like VW busses, etc, so the vintage aspect of the 1-26 appeals to me. *Also, I like the idea of starting "at the beginning", maybe that's just me. Of course, there is the option to buy an early fiberglass glider for around 10K, but at that price it's likely a fairly uncommon glider, hard to find parts for, and maybe not a good plane for a low time pilot (flaps, etc). *20K would be better but right now that is outside by budget. I admit, reading the entire issue of the last soaring issue dedicated to the 1-26 did lead me down this path. *My wife read it also and started asking me questions about the 1-26. So, before I start looking for a 1-26 is there any reason I should not? *My plan would be to fly the 1-26 for about 5 years and then find something more modern when funds allow and I've gained more experience. Opinions? *If prefer to stay out of the debate you can always email me privately. Thanks -tom The only thing I will mention is to consider where you are located and the flying conditions. In some areas the thermals are close enough spaced that a 1-26 is just fine, other you will be very limited on where you can fly. In Northern Utah a 1-26 would not be very useful. The thermals are often too far apart to jump the gaps between valleys and on ridge days the lack of l/d especially at higher speeds and penetration would leave you stuck at home when everyone else is gone. As always the suggestion of partners in a good glass ship is worth looking into. For 18 to 20K you can have a much higher performance ship with two partners. It is a good way to start flying and provides a built in crew system. |
#23
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1-26 for first glider, or not?
Wow, I posted this, went out and ran some errands, came back and I see 19 replies already! I knew it would be some great reading! I should have mentioned, I am on the east coast of the US, central Florida (ie: no ridges). So far wind is usually under 10 knots, and bases at around 4,000 - 6,000 MSL. Well, in the summer anyway. So far, the 1-26, Ka6, and 1-34 or 1-35. Interestingly these are the planes I have been seeing often in the classifieds within my price range, the 1-26 and Ka6 being the most affordable. How would you compare the assembly/disassembly among the four? Not interested in having a partner just yet, so that is not an option. Thanks! Tom |
#24
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1-26 for first glider, or not?
On Nov 12, 1:59*pm, Tony wrote:
On Nov 12, 2:48*pm, AGL wrote: On Nov 12, 9:36*am, tstock wrote: I know I will get replies on each end of the spectrum... SNIP We have a few 1-26's at our club and often can’t fly them because it's too windy. Our club rule is to never fly a 1-26 downwind. * From time to time someone vows to try landing one backwards against a headwind. As well, our cloudbase is usually low so a 1-26 doesn’t have a good enough L/D to get you to the next thermal. If there was usually less than 5 knots of wind and a decent cloudbase they would be a lot of fun. agl get the trailer set up. if you are spending all your effort trying to stay upwind in a 1-26 I can see why you don't like. *Little known secret of low performance soaring: All the FUN is downwind of the airport.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I will second the good trailer idea. I could assembly my 1-26 almost as fast as the local glass ships (15-20 minutes) The tail stayed assembled on the open trailer so no assembly there, so just attach the wings hook up the ailerons and spoilers, tighten the wing pins attach and tape the turtle deck and I was ready to fly. One consideration is what do your other local area pilots fly, If you have at least one other 1-26 or simliar performance airplane the fun level of the 1-26 can increase exponationally as you can fly together, if every one is flying 35+:1 gliders then you will probably quickly tire if being left behind or landing on days when everyone else is still flying. Brian |
#25
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1-26 for first glider, or not?
On Nov 12, 6:13*pm, tstock wrote:
Wow, I posted this, went out and ran some errands, came back and I see 19 replies already! *I knew it would be some great reading! I should have mentioned, I am on the east coast of the US, central Florida (ie: no ridges). *So far wind is usually under 10 knots, and bases at around 4,000 - 6,000 MSL. *Well, in the summer anyway. So far, the 1-26, Ka6, and 1-34 or 1-35. *Interestingly these are the planes I have been seeing often in the classifieds within my price range, the 1-26 and Ka6 being the most affordable. How would you compare the assembly/disassembly among the four? Not interested in having a partner just yet, so that is not an option. Thanks! Tom I have a 1-35 and the trailer next to me is a Discus "C." If we help one another with wings we're done in the same amount of time. He has to add the 18m tips. I have to connect the ailerons and tape the turtledeck so it's a wash. What about a 1-23? Everyone likes those. agl |
#26
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1-26 for first glider, or not?
"AGL" wrote in message ... On Nov 12, 6:13 pm, tstock wrote: I have a 1-35 and the trailer next to me is a Discus "C." If we help one another with wings we're done in the same amount of time. He has to add the 18m tips. I have to connect the ailerons and tape the turtledeck so it's a wash. What about a 1-23? Everyone likes those. agl http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schweizer_SGS_1-23 It is the sailplane that Paul Bikle flew when setting the world altitude gain record in 1961. |
#27
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1-26 for first glider, or not?
got a hangar? hard to beat a K6 for the $
tim "Wayne Paul" wrote in message m... "AGL" wrote in message ... On Nov 12, 6:13 pm, tstock wrote: I have a 1-35 and the trailer next to me is a Discus "C." If we help one another with wings we're done in the same amount of time. He has to add the 18m tips. I have to connect the ailerons and tape the turtledeck so it's a wash. What about a 1-23? Everyone likes those. agl http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schweizer_SGS_1-23 It is the sailplane that Paul Bikle flew when setting the world altitude gain record in 1961. |
#28
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1-26 for first glider, or not?
On Nov 12, 5:55*pm, AGL wrote:
On Nov 12, 6:13*pm, tstock wrote: Wow, I posted this, went out and ran some errands, came back and I see 19 replies already! *I knew it would be some great reading! I should have mentioned, I am on the east coast of the US, central Florida (ie: no ridges). *So far wind is usually under 10 knots, and bases at around 4,000 - 6,000 MSL. *Well, in the summer anyway. So far, the 1-26, Ka6, and 1-34 or 1-35. *Interestingly these are the planes I have been seeing often in the classifieds within my price range, the 1-26 and Ka6 being the most affordable. How would you compare the assembly/disassembly among the four? Not interested in having a partner just yet, so that is not an option. Thanks! Tom I have a 1-35 and the trailer next to me is a Discus "C." *If we help one another with wings we're done in the same amount of time. *He has to add the 18m tips. *I have to connect the ailerons and tape the turtledeck so it's a wash. What about a 1-23? *Everyone likes those. agl Oh Yes! the 1-23 is also a good choice, better performance than the 26 and just as crashworthy. But, they are gonna cost more like 10K. The 34 is a great machine too. Though flaps aren't a big deal you may find yourself spending an entire season getting confident with landings in a 35 when you could be flying cross country. We have 2 of those at my home club and they never go anywhere. For my money it's hard to beat the K6. The performance is sweet and the handling is legendary. I know one that recently sold for $4500 to a new glider pilot who started flying it cross country his first season. You can buy a LOT of tows with the money saved. |
#29
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1-26 for first glider, or not?
And you don't need a hanger. Keep it in the trailer and rig every
time you fly. That way, when it's a killer day you will GO and when it's sketchy getting home you wont be worried about landing out because you KNOW the trailer is ready to go and you KNOW how to put the glider in the trailer in 20 minutes with 1 other person helping. |
#30
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1-26 for first glider, or not?
On Nov 12, 9:41*pm, wrote:
Oh Yes! *the 1-23 is also a good choice, better performance than the 26 and just as crashworthy. *But, they are gonna cost more like 10K. The 34 is a great machine too. Though flaps aren't a big deal you may find yourself spending an entire season getting confident with landings in a 35 when you could be flying cross country. *We have 2 of those at my home club and they never go anywhere. *For my money it's hard to beat the K6. *The performance is sweet and the handling is legendary. *I know one that recently sold for $4500 to a new glider pilot who started flying it cross country his first season. *You can buy a LOT of tows with the money saved.- Hide quoted text - For performance, I would take the 1-23. But I think the 1-23 may be a bit easier to put together. The 1-23 uses taper pins to attach the wings. The 1-26 uses straight bolts. The taper pins take a bit more time and "finesse" to install and certainly to remove. But, I like performance, and if you are thinking of tieing the plane out, I would consider the higher performance and the little higher cost. The 1-23 is all metal, and the 1-26 has (at the very least) fabric covered control surfaces. And there is a 1-36 in your neck of the woods. But, it is above the price range you mentioned. On the Ka-6 discussion, they are great! Ka-8s are a blast, too. But, they are fabric and need to be kept out of the weather. Either in an enclosed trailer, or in a hangar. Not that big a deal. The Ka-8 has taper pins, and the Ka-6 has straight pins. Again, my preference is for gliding performance and the Ka-6. It is also just a touch easier to assemble. One other not yet discussed is the Std Austria. Wood, fabric, fiberglass forward fuselage. And there is one for under $6K right now, with an enclosed metal trailer. They are probably the most performance you will get in a Woodie. They are not light, but not difficult to assemble if you understand what you are doing. Then, there are the homebuilts. Some are great, others not so good. If you poke around, you could probably find a Woodstock for under $4k, and there are Dusters in the 1-26 price range. There is the Miller Tern and the Cherokee II and Cherokee RM (different wing on a Cherokee). I think you will have a blast with what ever you buy. As Hank said, 1-26s can be great fun. As others have said, do your best to get or make your trailer as user friendly as you possibly can. There is nothing worse than a trailer that makes you take an hour and a half to do what you should be able to do in twenty minutes. Ka-6s are nice, and I think, easier to assemble than a 1-26 (you have better access to the control connections and drag spar connections). Probably the best advice is to sit in, and preferably, get a chance to fly one before you buy. And above all, remember this. You ar ebuying for you, not for us out here in RAS Land. And advice you get on RAS is worth every penny you didn't pay for it! Steve Leonard (never flown a 1-26 but have a Ka-6, Ka-8, and an Austria) |
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