ASW19/20 Canopy strut

My strut is finally flat. Time to change it. Would like to buy the parts now, have them on hand and avoid being down for an extended period of time.

Who knows the dimensions/newton/etc?

McMaster part numbers?


Or someplace else you'd recommend buying from.

Thanks!

On Wednesday, June 28, 2017 at 9:06:05 PM UTC-4, wrote:
My strut is finally flat. Time to change it. Would like to buy the parts now, have them on hand and avoid being down for an extended period of time.

Who knows the dimensions/newton/etc?

McMaster part numbers?


Or someplace else you'd recommend buying from.

Thanks!



Call Williams Soaring. They have them in stock

On Wednesday, June 28, 2017 at 9:06:05 PM UTC-4, wrote:
My strut is finally flat. Time to change it. . . .

Have you replaced this before? If not, be forewarned be aware that it's incredibly challenging to get at the thing . . . we wound up employing a very well equipped and creative "MacGuyver-type" mechanic who managed to improvise some new "tools" to get at the attach points, buried out of reach in the nose.

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 6:26:40 AM UTC-4, Jim Kellett wrote:
On Wednesday, June 28, 2017 at 9:06:05 PM UTC-4, wrote:
My strut is finally flat. Time to change it. . . .

Have you replaced this before? If not, be forewarned be aware that it's incredibly challenging to get at the thing . . . we wound up employing a very well equipped and creative "MacGuyver-type" mechanic who managed to improvise some new "tools" to get at the attach points, buried out of reach in the nose.

This is a 60 - 90 minute job, not particularly difficult unless you make it so.

The rod end stays in the glider!!!

Many tips posted on r.a.s. (search...), ASW-20 & ASW-27 yahoo groups.

best,
Evan Ludeman / T8

The generally accepted method is to remove the through bolt from the rear strut fitting and fork. Unscrew the strut rod from the front fitting, leaving it in place. Then, on a shop press, partially collapse the new strut and use safety wire looped around the base of the threads of the rod end, down along the cylinder body and around the base. Screw the new strut end into the existing front fitting, align the rear fitting in the fork, replace the through bolt and cut off the safety wire.

Energetic cursing may or may not help, but I employ it just in case. I also machined a couple of clamps that hold the rod and cylinder with safety wire between two studs to keep it partially compressed during installation. The safety wire is then clipped and the clamps are removed.

It is a tedious and difficult process due to the tight quarters and awkward position. Try to find someone with three elbows to assist.

Thanks for the info folks.

So far I've looked a bit deeper into the issue. Have a few more questions hopefully someone here knows.

16 3/4 inches long extended. 700-1000 newtons.

Anyone verify these numbers?

What is the diameter and thread size for the front mount? (like the idea of leaving the front mount installed and threading a new one in)

Best if someone still has part numbers from "local" supplier.

Thanks

I have a new one out at the airport. I will take a look at it tomorrow.

The original reference on my ASW20 was:

Stabilus Lift-o-Mat, 03 08 150 128/0700N 42/80

The replacement reference (in Europe) was J0H2-40-160-399--004/700N

For an ASW20 with fixed instrument panel, not the one going up with the canopy.

700N for non-lifting panel, 1000N for lifting. Schleicher part is made by Hahn Gasfeder.

Unscrewing front and is good advice, but some gas struts have stamped end that cannot by unscrewed. Opening nose bolt is relatively easy, but putting it back is more difficult. I did this by supergluing nut to my finger and reaching it to bolt end (yes, lost finger skin in the process). It took one day instead of 60 minutes and I invented a whole new vocabulary of curses. Seriously thought of sawing the nose cone off to attach bolt.

On Mon, 03 Jul 2017 01:43:57 -0700, krasw wrote:

700N for non-lifting panel, 1000N for lifting. Schleicher part is made
by Hahn Gasfeder.

Unscrewing front and is good advice, but some gas struts have stamped
end that cannot by unscrewed. Opening nose bolt is relatively easy, but
putting it back is more difficult. I did this by supergluing nut to my
finger and reaching it to bolt end (yes, lost finger skin in the
process). It took one day instead of 60 minutes and I invented a whole
new vocabulary of curses. Seriously thought of sawing the nose cone off
to attach bolt.

I like the cya (superglue) solution, but a less painful way might be to
buy a cheap, disposable latex or plastic glove, put it on and use use cya
to stick the nut to the outside of the glove. You might also get away
with wrapping your finger in masking tape and sticking the nut to that:
clingfilm wouldn't work because cya doesn't stick to it.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |