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#11
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"John Kunkel" writes:
How do I cut 3/16" stainless steel aircraft cable? You need a dedicated cable/wire rope cutter. http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200308983.htm Dremal cutoff wheel, maybe??? -- A host is a host from coast to & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433 |
#12
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"RST Engineering" wrote in message ... Orval -- A quick question from somebody who farms that part of the job out when it has to be done...since the end doesn't take any of the tension of the cable, what would be wrong with torching it and then nicropressing it outside of the torched area? Stainless steel does not burn in oxygen like carbon steel does. You can CUT stainless steel with a plasma torch or with an abrasive disk cutoff saw. With an oxy-acetylene torch you could MELT the stainless cable (and blow the melted metal away as opposed to burning away like carbon steel) and you may be able to fuse the ends of the cable as is often done with regular wire rope. Since stainless is normally welded inside an inert atmosphere (argon or helium), you should expect less than perfect results if fusing the end of the cable in an oxygen atmosphere. Some people use solder or silver solder(brazing) to seal the cable ends and contain the jagged ends. Stainless does not conduct heat as well as regular steel so it will stay hot longer but will not conduct the heat as far down the cable as regular wire rope. You could stop the heat traveling very far by quenching in water or oil. YMMV and I doubt that it is approved as per EA-AC 43.13-1A&2A An abrasive disk cutoff saw and a blob of 5 min. epoxy would be the easiest and would solve worries about the heat affected zone, or just put an extra nico over the jagged ends. Blue skies to all. |
#13
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RST Engineering wrote:
Orval -- A quick question from somebody who farms that part of the job out when it has to be done...since the end doesn't take any of the tension of the cable, what would be wrong with torching it and then nicropressing it outside of the torched area? Note: I'm not doing this for use in an aircraft! It is simply to extend a clothes line. It's probably best to not fray the end too much. Do repair shops at FBOs typically have something to cut cable with? I can just drive it over to the one I used to fly out of. Out of interest, what is a "nico press"? I don't have one in my garage but buying new toys is always fun. I'll try a MAP torch and chisel. |
#14
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On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 09:46:46 -0400, Stubby
wrote: Out of interest, what is a "nico press"? I don't have one in my garage but buying new toys is always fun. I'll try a MAP torch and chisel. Nicopress was developed as a low-cost way to install terminations on cable for the telephone industry. It compresses a copper sleeve over the cable so that the copper flows into the weave of the cable. The swage (compression tool), sleeves and other components used on the system can be bought at most hardware stores. Here's what the swage looks like: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...wagingtool.php See page 7-32 of AC43-13b: http://www.faa.gov/certification/air...3/Ch_07-08.doc Ron Wanttaja |
#15
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On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 09:46:46 -0400, Stubby
wrote: RST Engineering wrote: Orval -- A quick question from somebody who farms that part of the job out when it has to be done...since the end doesn't take any of the tension of the cable, what would be wrong with torching it and then nicropressing it outside of the torched area? Note: I'm not doing this for use in an aircraft! It is simply to extend a clothes line. It's probably best to not fray the end too much. Do repair shops at FBOs typically have something to cut cable with? I can just drive it over to the one I used to fly out of. Out of interest, what is a "nico press"? I don't have one in my garage but buying new toys is always fun. I'll try a MAP torch and chisel. The biggest cable/bolt cutter you are likely to see is the 24 inch Chinese model that usually costs about $25. A smaller version of this bolt cutter at $15 or less, can have its cutter jaws ground to a circular profile. This makes a handy dandy nicopress for aluminum or copper sleeves which are clenched together on a wire loop to make high strength end fittings. If poeple want to use a sledge and cold-chisel, that's fine with me. People who want to use the "two bars squeezed with bolts" style of nicopress are welcome to it. Yacht chandlers will use a hydraulic press for swageing end fittings. Nice work, if you can get it! Word to the wise: always proof test cable terminal fittings to at least 90% of the design load - you'll never regret it. Brian Whatcott |
#16
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Ron Wanttaja wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 09:46:46 -0400, Stubby wrote: Out of interest, what is a "nico press"? I don't have one in my garage but buying new toys is always fun. I'll try a MAP torch and chisel. Nicopress was developed as a low-cost way to install terminations on cable for the telephone industry. It compresses a copper sleeve over the cable so that the copper flows into the weave of the cable. The swage (compression tool), sleeves and other components used on the system can be bought at most hardware stores. Here's what the swage looks like: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...wagingtool.php See page 7-32 of AC43-13b: http://www.faa.gov/certification/air...3/Ch_07-08.doc Ron Wanttaja Those are excellent references. Thanks, Ron. |
#17
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