*HF* Tightbond III

Tightbond III Ultimate Wood Glue
16oz Item# 91769-2HYH $8.00

If you're working with wood and have not tried Tightbond III, do
yourself a favor and give it a try. (HF also carries the half-pint
size for $5.00.)

Note the Special Identifier *HF* to indicate an off-topic posting.

-R.S.Hoover

On Aug 11, 1:20 pm, " wrote:
Tightbond III Ultimate Wood Glue
16oz Item# 91769-2HYH $8.00

If you're working with wood and have not tried Tightbond III, do
yourself a favor and give it a try. (HF also carries the half-pint
size for $5.00.)

Note the Special Identifier *HF* to indicate an off-topic posting.

-R.S.Hoover

Is this stuff waterproof? Is it a urethane glue like Gorilla,
which I've read has a foaming action that fills gaps but also allows
the absorption of water?
Nothing off-topic about HF. Most of us are addicted, I think,
to these places. We don't have HF in Canada that I know of but we have
Princess Auto, which has all the same stuff. Many of the tools we buy
from them now are every bit as good as average-quality North American
tools of 30 years ago and cost a fraction of the price. Us older guys
remember never having enough tools or the money for tools and so we
are fatally tempted by master marketers like these guys. And I like
the no-hassle return policy of Princess when you end up with something
that's just no good.

Dan

wrote in message
...
On Aug 11, 1:20 pm, " wrote:
Tightbond III Ultimate Wood Glue
16oz Item# 91769-2HYH $8.00

If you're working with wood and have not tried Tightbond III, do
yourself a favor and give it a try. (HF also carries the half-pint
size for $5.00.)

Note the Special Identifier *HF* to indicate an off-topic posting.

-R.S.Hoover

Is this stuff waterproof? Is it a urethane glue like Gorilla,
which I've read has a foaming action that fills gaps but also allows
the absorption of water?
Nothing off-topic about HF. Most of us are addicted, I think,
to these places. We don't have HF in Canada that I know of but we have
Princess Auto, which has all the same stuff. Many of the tools we buy
from them now are every bit as good as average-quality North American
tools of 30 years ago and cost a fraction of the price. Us older guys
remember never having enough tools or the money for tools and so we
are fatally tempted by master marketers like these guys. And I like
the no-hassle return policy of Princess when you end up with something
that's just no good.

Dan

Titebond III is a waterproof PVA glue (aka white glue). I've done test
strips with it, Gorilla Glue, and T-88. The results were indistinguishable
in my testing. My tests were pretty simple - pull tests to evaluate shear
and tensile strength of samples that were dry, wet, or still hot and wet
from being boiled in water.

That said, I've been using T-88 on my Hatz Classic. It costs more and can
only be sourced at special stores, so it must be better, right? Seriously,
I'm old school. I typically use time tested products.

Oh, yeah. I was at HF today. Got a tool stand for $19 bucks. Once I add a
plywood top and some properly spaced mounting holes, it will be the platform
for my belt sander, drum sander, planer, or whatever tool deserves to be
bolted down for a while.

KB

"Kyle Boatright" wrote

Oh, yeah. I was at HF today. Got a tool stand for $19 bucks. Once I add a
plywood top and some properly spaced mounting holes, it will be the
platform for my belt sander, drum sander, planer, or whatever tool
deserves to be bolted down for a while.

On a different thought than the subject of TB III, but the tool stand made
me think of it.

You know those types of chairs that have a whole bunch of scissor type
linkages, and ends up with a canvas type sling for the seat and back?

Well, I recently came across one of mine that had the canvas go to the bad
side. I just _couldn't_ throw it away, with all those neat linkages, so I
thought for a moment.

I am always looking for something to support things I am working on, and to
put tools on up off the ground, and somehow, something about that chair
frame told me there was a good use in there.

I got out the reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade in it, and folded
it up and down a couple times to figure out where to cut the back upright
supports off. When I had the answer, it got cut off.

What I ended up with is a square 3/4" plywood platform, with some holes
drilled in it at the corners, to go onto the frame uprights. The neat thing
is, that if you vary the size of the platform, and the vary distance from
hole to hole, you get a pretty small "sawhorse" when you fold it up. If
you drill more holes in the same platform closer together, you get a
platform with a taller platform height.

It is great for sitting tools on, or work on, and has a wide enough
footprint to be very stable.

I hope someone finds my "ahaaa moment" an idea that you can use. :-)
--
Jim in NC

On Aug 11, 5:12 pm, wrote:

Is this stuff waterproof?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Dan,

You've really got to test it for yourself. For top quality joints use
the set-up procedure recommended by the FPL. The instructions on the
package are rather whimsical.

While all urethane adhesive use the same general formula, the
composition varies from one manufacturer to another. The glue cures
by reacting with moisture in the air and on the substrait. The
reaction generates bubbles of carbon dioxide. Formulated for a fast
reaction, the bubbles will tend to be larger than a glue formulated
for maximum strength. The bubbles are closed cells except at the
unrestrained surface, where they may join.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Is it a urethane glue like Gorilla,

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

No. Tightbond III is a vinyl-resin glue, similar to white carpenter's
glue... except for being gray... and being CROSS-LINKED. That means,
once it cures, application of heat & moisture can not reverse the
process.

As for being waterproof the answer is a bit of surprise. Immediately
after application you can remove the glue with a lot of elbow grease
and a damp cloth. But the longer is has time to cure, the more
impervious it becomes.

If you're building with wood you owe it to yourself to give it an
honest test. I think you'll be glad that you did.

-R.S.Hoover