Painting with Latex House Paint

In article ,
ChuckSlusarczyk wrote:

In article . com,
says...

That nurse's uniform fabric was dacron polyester?

I've always thought it was a little bit of a sham that you pay double
for PMA'd fabric with the FAA stamp on it, when the homebuilder fabric
and the PMA'd most likely come from the same looms and the same
factory.

I used to cover my models with Polyester Sheath lining that I got from JoAnnes
fabrics. Later I used it to cover my Easy Riser Ultralight. You can get it in
colors and patterns too!! :-)It's about 1.6 - 1.8 ounce weight.

Chuck S

The only major caveat here is that you use "greige" (sp) Dacron, which
has not been pre-shrunk. Most of the polyester that you buy in fabric
stores has been shrunk already and will not taughten up under heat.

That property is what Ceconite, Stits, etc. use to maintain a nice,
tight cover. The dope, paint, etc. is there only to provide UV
protection, fill the pores, give a finish, etc. It is also because the
fabric is already taught that you use non-taughtening butyrate dope, or
you can (will) warp things.

In article , Orval
Fairbairn says...

The only major caveat here is that you use "greige" (sp) Dacron, which
has not been pre-shrunk. Most of the polyester that you buy in fabric
stores has been shrunk already and will not taughten up under heat.

That property is what Ceconite, Stits, etc. use to maintain a nice,
tight cover. The dope, paint, etc. is there only to provide UV
protection, fill the pores, give a finish, etc. It is also because the
fabric is already taught that you use non-taughtening butyrate dope, or
you can (will) warp things.

The Sheath lining has not been shrunk and will work just like Ceconite ,Stits
etc. I used a nitrate based dope for my first coats and my final coats were
Randolph butayrate dopes.My plane is in the EAA museum and is almost 30 years
old and looks great.

See ya

Chuck

In article ,
ChuckSlusarczyk wrote:

In article , Orval
Fairbairn says...

The only major caveat here is that you use "greige" (sp) Dacron, which
has not been pre-shrunk. Most of the polyester that you buy in fabric
stores has been shrunk already and will not taughten up under heat.

That property is what Ceconite, Stits, etc. use to maintain a nice,
tight cover. The dope, paint, etc. is there only to provide UV
protection, fill the pores, give a finish, etc. It is also because the
fabric is already taught that you use non-taughtening butyrate dope, or
you can (will) warp things.

The Sheath lining has not been shrunk and will work just like Ceconite ,Stits
etc. I used a nitrate based dope for my first coats and my final coats were
Randolph butayrate dopes.My plane is in the EAA museum and is almost 30 years
old and looks great.

See ya

Chuck

It sounds like you did it right! A lot of the fabric store Dacron is
pre-shrunk. People also used to make the mistake of applying butyrate
directly to the Dacron -- it has very poor adhesion and will peel off.
You need the nitrate to prime it wit™ something that will stick to the
Dacron.

Now -- how well does latex stick to the fabric, or do they use some
other kind of primer?

Acrylic Latex gloss house paint is the nearest thing to immortality in
modern paints... UV reflective, water proof, non shrinking, tough,
resists most solvents, really good stuff... You don't need anything
"under" the paint to block the UV... The whole point of exterior paint
is that it blocks UV and is waterproof...
Many in the home boat builder ranks consider it theworld's best kept
secret for finishing boats... You can buy 2 part Linear Polyurethane at
$500 a gallon, or you can get Sherman WIlliams at the discount store...
Your call...

denny

In article .com,
"Denny" wrote:

Acrylic Latex gloss house paint is the nearest thing to immortality in
modern paints... UV reflective, water proof, non shrinking, tough,
resists most solvents, really good stuff... You don't need anything
"under" the paint to block the UV... The whole point of exterior paint
is that it blocks UV and is waterproof...
Many in the home boat builder ranks consider it theworld's best kept
secret for finishing boats... You can buy 2 part Linear Polyurethane at
$500 a gallon, or you can get Sherman WIlliams at the discount store...
Your call...

denny

Does it stick to aluminum? Tin can pilots want to know.

In article , Orval
Fairbairn says...


It sounds like you did it right! A lot of the fabric store Dacron is
pre-shrunk. People also used to make the mistake of applying butyrate
directly to the Dacron -- it has very poor adhesion and will peel off.
You need the nitrate to prime it wit™ something that will stick to the
Dacron.

Now -- how well does latex stick to the fabric, or do they use some
other kind of primer?

You have to use a thinned down nitrate to encapsulate the weave .Nitrate does
this very well. Most paints will skin over the top of the fabric and eventually
peel off like sunburnt skin. Been there done that :-)
I suppose the house paints will go over Nitrate OK but I wonder about making a
repair to the fabric .I would think that the active solvents in nitrate would
make short work of the house paint and It would sem that trying to blend the
repair paint to the existing paint could be a problem.

See ya

Chuck S

On 14 Mar 2006 05:05:17 -0800, ChuckSlusarczyk
wrote:

In article , Orval
Fairbairn says...

The only major caveat here is that you use "greige" (sp) Dacron, which
has not been pre-shrunk. Most of the polyester that you buy in fabric
stores has been shrunk already and will not taughten up under heat.

That property is what Ceconite, Stits, etc. use to maintain a nice,
tight cover. The dope, paint, etc. is there only to provide UV
protection, fill the pores, give a finish, etc. It is also because the
fabric is already taught that you use non-taughtening butyrate dope, or
you can (will) warp things.

The Sheath lining has not been shrunk and will work just like Ceconite ,Stits
etc. I used a nitrate based dope for my first coats and my final coats were
Randolph butayrate dopes.My plane is in the EAA museum and is almost 30 years
old and looks great.

See ya

Chuck
Could not find sheath lining, but did find 1.7 oz polyester sheer
window covering material in 118 inch width for $9 canadian per running
yard. Shrinks up to 20%.
Just did a small test panel with Zinsser Bullseye 123 water based
primer.
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On 14 Mar 2006 21:03:51 -0800, ChuckSlusarczyk
wrote:

In article , Orval
Fairbairn says...


It sounds like you did it right! A lot of the fabric store Dacron is
pre-shrunk. People also used to make the mistake of applying butyrate
directly to the Dacron -- it has very poor adhesion and will peel off.
You need the nitrate to prime it witâ„¢ something that will stick to the
Dacron.

Now -- how well does latex stick to the fabric, or do they use some
other kind of primer?

You have to use a thinned down nitrate to encapsulate the weave .Nitrate does
this very well. Most paints will skin over the top of the fabric and eventually
peel off like sunburnt skin. Been there done that :-)
I suppose the house paints will go over Nitrate OK but I wonder about making a
repair to the fabric .I would think that the active solvents in nitrate would
make short work of the house paint and It would sem that trying to blend the
repair paint to the existing paint could be a problem.

See ya

Chuck S
This Zinsser Bullseye sticks to ANYTHING including ceramic tile
without sanding, and seems to have encapsulated the fibers very well.
Doing some testing.
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On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 18:30:05 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article .com,
"Denny" wrote:

Acrylic Latex gloss house paint is the nearest thing to immortality in
modern paints... UV reflective, water proof, non shrinking, tough,
resists most solvents, really good stuff... You don't need anything
"under" the paint to block the UV... The whole point of exterior paint
is that it blocks UV and is waterproof...
Many in the home boat builder ranks consider it theworld's best kept
secret for finishing boats... You can buy 2 part Linear Polyurethane at
$500 a gallon, or you can get Sherman WIlliams at the discount store...
Your call...

denny

Does it stick to aluminum? Tin can pilots want to know.
This stuff sticks to aluminum. It is also a rust inhibitor on steel.
It sticks to just about anything any water based or oil based paint
will stick to, only in most cases better.
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As the guys pointed out, just think "BullsEye", and it sticks...

denny