Interior paint

On Wednesday, November 27, 2019 at 9:31:32 AM UTC-8, wrote:
Don’t forget to sand everything to remove contaminants, the seat pan in particular is a reservoir for bodily fluids, sweat, tears and other bodily fluids. Recommend 80 grit sandpaper to give the surface good adhesion, flattened paint won’t show the sanding scratches. I often spray the metal controls in place with rattle-can paint, after I cover everything else with an old bed sheet with a small hole cut in the middle where the control protrudes. These metal parts often show some rust, Best to remove all rust by sanding or wire brush before spraying. Remove the stick grip, spoiler handle, flap handle, gear handle, etc before spraying, then re-spray them with their appropriate color before re-installing. Best to remove the canopy and cover the instrument panel before painting so that they aren't accidentally dusted with overspray.
Have fun,
JJ

Thanks JJ! Do you have any brands / suppliers you can recommend?

I’m with UH on this, acrylic enamel is tough enough to withstand rough treatment the cockpit gets. Rust-o-Liam works well on metal parts. Your local auto paint store will have AE and a good supply of paint related supplies, masking tape, masking sheet, brushes, rollers, etc. Ace Hardware has a wide variety of rattle can spray paint. Pick up grey, flat black, red, yellow, blue and green for the control handles . A first class job will include re-painting the canopy rail. Carefully mask the paint line and then re-mask the cover sheet to the first tape. Mask the outside too...........a few extra minutes here will save an afternoon removing overspray on your canopy. Flat black here and on the glare shield. Best to spray the canopy off the bird, upside down on horses. Good wintertime project.
JJ
Change the cockpit stickers, too Wings & Wheels has them.

On Wednesday, November 27, 2019 at 7:47:52 PM UTC-5, soaringjac wrote:
On Wednesday, November 27, 2019 at 9:31:32 AM UTC-8, wrote:
Don’t forget to sand everything to remove contaminants, the seat pan in particular is a reservoir for bodily fluids, sweat, tears and other bodily fluids. Recommend 80 grit sandpaper to give the surface good adhesion, flattened paint won’t show the sanding scratches. I often spray the metal controls in place with rattle-can paint, after I cover everything else with an old bed sheet with a small hole cut in the middle where the control protrudes. These metal parts often show some rust, Best to remove all rust by sanding or wire brush before spraying. Remove the stick grip, spoiler handle, flap handle, gear handle, etc before spraying, then re-spray them with their appropriate color before re-installing. Best to remove the canopy and cover the instrument panel before painting so that they aren't accidentally dusted with overspray.
Have fun,
JJ

Thanks JJ! Do you have any brands / suppliers you can recommend?

I use the following for most stuff.
Interior major: Sherwin Willaims 2nd Dimension acrylic enamel number1656533-A RAL7037 Dusty Gray using semi flat base. Used with hardener and applied with 3 inch fabric roller.
Gray spray for metal: Zero Rust 61SP- Gray. This is a primer but gives a nice finish and is close in color to Schleicher.
Satin Black: SEM 39143 Trim Black. This provides a very nice satin finish like the black trim on your car. Makes a good finish for panels. Also good for glare shields and canopy frames when used with texture below.
Textu For parts that need a bit of texture, like panels, I spray a light to moderate coat of Rustoleum Textured Black part number 7220. A day later I over coat with The SEM Trim Black.
FWIW
UH

On Thursday, November 28, 2019 at 8:19:06 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 27, 2019 at 7:47:52 PM UTC-5, soaringjac wrote:
On Wednesday, November 27, 2019 at 9:31:32 AM UTC-8, wrote:
Don’t forget to sand everything to remove contaminants, the seat pan in particular is a reservoir for bodily fluids, sweat, tears and other bodily fluids. Recommend 80 grit sandpaper to give the surface good adhesion, flattened paint won’t show the sanding scratches. I often spray the metal controls in place with rattle-can paint, after I cover everything else with an old bed sheet with a small hole cut in the middle where the control protrudes. These metal parts often show some rust, Best to remove all rust by sanding or wire brush before spraying. Remove the stick grip, spoiler handle, flap handle, gear handle, etc before spraying, then re-spray them with their appropriate color before re-installing. Best to remove the canopy and cover the instrument panel before painting so that they aren't accidentally dusted with overspray.
Have fun,
JJ

Thanks JJ! Do you have any brands / suppliers you can recommend?

I use the following for most stuff.
Interior major: Sherwin Willaims 2nd Dimension acrylic enamel number1656533-A RAL7037 Dusty Gray using semi flat base. Used with hardener and applied with 3 inch fabric roller.
Gray spray for metal: Zero Rust 61SP- Gray. This is a primer but gives a nice finish and is close in color to Schleicher.
Satin Black: SEM 39143 Trim Black. This provides a very nice satin finish like the black trim on your car. Makes a good finish for panels. Also good for glare shields and canopy frames when used with texture below.
Textu For parts that need a bit of texture, like panels, I spray a light to moderate coat of Rustoleum Textured Black part number 7220. A day later I over coat with The SEM Trim Black.
FWIW
UH

Awesome thanks UH, this is great

On Thursday, November 28, 2019 at 7:11:00 AM UTC-8, wrote:
I’m with UH on this, acrylic enamel is tough enough to withstand rough treatment the cockpit gets. Rust-o-Liam works well on metal parts. Your local auto paint store will have AE and a good supply of paint related supplies, masking tape, masking sheet, brushes, rollers, etc. Ace Hardware has a wide variety of rattle can spray paint. Pick up grey, flat black, red, yellow, blue and green for the control handles . A first class job will include re-painting the canopy rail. Carefully mask the paint line and then re-mask the cover sheet to the first tape. Mask the outside too...........a few extra minutes here will save an afternoon removing overspray on your canopy. Flat black here and on the glare shield. Best to spray the canopy off the bird, upside down on horses. Good wintertime project.
JJ
Change the cockpit stickers, too Wings & Wheels has them.

Thanks JJ! Yeah definitely am going to do the canopy rail as well.

I once sprayed my cockpit with auto trunk paint, gray with white, black,
and possibly other colored flecks.Â* It looked great but was too soft and
rubbed off pretty quickly.Â* Maybe I just didn't do a proper prep...

On 11/28/2019 8:10 AM, wrote:
I’m with UH on this, acrylic enamel is tough enough to withstand rough treatment the cockpit gets. Rust-o-Liam works well on metal parts. Your local auto paint store will have AE and a good supply of paint related supplies, masking tape, masking sheet, brushes, rollers, etc. Ace Hardware has a wide variety of rattle can spray paint. Pick up grey, flat black, red, yellow, blue and green for the control handles . A first class job will include re-painting the canopy rail. Carefully mask the paint line and then re-mask the cover sheet to the first tape. Mask the outside too...........a few extra minutes here will save an afternoon removing overspray on your canopy. Flat black here and on the glare shield. Best to spray the canopy off the bird, upside down on horses. Good wintertime project.
JJ
Change the cockpit stickers, too Wings & Wheels has them.

--
Dan, 5J

I’ve had good success using Klass Kote epoxy paint. Used a foam roller to apply it. Ended up giving it a nice texture. Once it cured it’s incredibly hard.

On Tuesday, November 26, 2019 at 6:27:35 PM UTC-8, soaringjac wrote:
I am looking to freshen up the interior of an old Grob 102. Mainly just want to put a new coat of paint on the interior walls of the cockpit. Any recommendations for paint I should be using? I prefer to brush it on rather than spray. I saw some enamel paint at Lowes but it says "oil-based" on it. I assume oil would be bad to put on the fiberglass? Just want to be sure whatever i use won't do anything to the glass.

thanks!

I've used Zolatone speckle paint on the interior of composite belly pods. It's bullet proof.

On Thursday, November 28, 2019 at 4:17:00 PM UTC-8, wrote:
I’ve had good success using Klass Kote epoxy paint. Used a foam roller to apply it. Ended up giving it a nice texture. Once it cured it’s incredibly hard.

Is this the stuff you are using, the grey primer #50? https://www.klasskote..com/epoxy-colors-primers

Is this the stuff you are using, the grey primer #50? https://www.klasskote.com/epoxy-colors-primers

I used battleship grey #112. This was on a new build amateur build experimental so I wasn't trying to match a previously applied color.