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#1
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Learning to spray paint
I've assembled my compressor, mounted a regulator/filter, have done
some sandblasting, and done some grinding with my die grinder. Now it's time to learn how to use the paint sprayer. I've been spraying water on a cardboard surface, but the viscosity/ volitility of water is such that I fear I'm not getting much out of the exercise. My end objective is to spray 2-part epoxy primer, but that's expensive to learn on. Any suggestions on an inexpensive medium to practice with? Enamel diluted IAW directions? Interior housepaint? - Mike |
#2
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Learning to spray paint
On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 06:08:51 -0700, mhorowit wrote:
I've assembled my compressor, mounted a regulator/filter, have done some sandblasting, and done some grinding with my die grinder. Now it's time to learn how to use the paint sprayer. I've been spraying water on a cardboard surface, but the viscosity/ volitility of water is such that I fear I'm not getting much out of the exercise. My end objective is to spray 2-part epoxy primer, but that's expensive to learn on. Any suggestions on an inexpensive medium to practice with? Enamel diluted IAW directions? Interior housepaint? - Mike be sure to put a water trap in the air line. mine is a sintered jobbie which combines a step down pressure regulator in one. I had a friend who painted an Aeronca fuselage with a commercial spray gun. at the end of the job he guessed that the overspray on the floor was worth over $200. I took the hint and sprayed my entire Auster fuselage with enough overspray to leave just the faintest green dust on the floor. cost of the overspray was probably $2. what I used was a miniature Revel type airbrush. it gave a spray just as wide as the tube and actually sprayed just as fast as a full size gun. The revel type is the really simple airbrush with the plastic handle, on off air button control and the little glass bottle. It blows air past a paint nozzle just like a flit gun. I found that the airbrush would eventually gum up with dry epoxy paint even when washed out in solvents. They cost me $14 each in various shops and over the course of the fuselage spray task I used 4 of them. The other benefit is that they spray so little solvent into the air that you have a far healthier environment to work in. dont be fooled by the diminutive size of the airbrush. they actually work beautifully on tube fuselages. One thing I found is that it is easy to miss the face of a tube. have someone else look over the fuselage for missed areas. You'll find them guaranteed. I practised on the first tubes with the actual thinned epoxy paint. Stealth Pilot |
#3
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Learning to spray paint
On Aug 20, 10:34 am, Stealth Pilot
wrote: On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 06:08:51 -0700, mhorowit wrote: I've assembled my compressor, mounted a regulator/filter, have done some sandblasting, and done some grinding with my die grinder. Now it's time to learn how to use the paint sprayer. I've been spraying water on a cardboard surface, but the viscosity/ volitility of water is such that I fear I'm not getting much out of the exercise. My end objective is to spray 2-part epoxy primer, but that's expensive to learn on. Any suggestions on an inexpensive medium to practice with? Enamel diluted IAW directions? Interior housepaint? - Mike be sure to put a water trap in the air line. mine is a sintered jobbie which combines a step down pressure regulator in one. I had a friend who painted an Aeronca fuselage with a commercial spray gun. at the end of the job he guessed that the overspray on the floor was worth over $200. I took the hint and sprayed my entire Auster fuselage with enough overspray to leave just the faintest green dust on the floor. cost of the overspray was probably $2. what I used was a miniature Revel type airbrush. it gave a spray just as wide as the tube and actually sprayed just as fast as a full size gun. The revel type is the really simple airbrush with the plastic handle, on off air button control and the little glass bottle. It blows air past a paint nozzle just like a flit gun. I found that the airbrush would eventually gum up with dry epoxy paint even when washed out in solvents. They cost me $14 each in various shops and over the course of the fuselage spray task I used 4 of them. The other benefit is that they spray so little solvent into the air that you have a far healthier environment to work in. dont be fooled by the diminutive size of the airbrush. they actually work beautifully on tube fuselages. One thing I found is that it is easy to miss the face of a tube. have someone else look over the fuselage for missed areas. You'll find them guaranteed. I practised on the first tubes with the actual thinned epoxy paint. Stealth Pilot A winner! I was worried about overspraying the neighborhood. I'll GOOGLE for Revel+airbrush - Mike |
#4
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Learning to spray paint
"mhorowit" wrote A winner! I was worried about overspraying the neighborhood. I'll GOOGLE for Revel+airbrush - Mike The water trap suggestions should be taken as a "must." I am not sure how it carries to using an airbrush, but I would imagine that it does. I use a HVLP conversion sprayer, which is High Volume Low Pressure and the conversion means it takes relatively high compressor pressure, and regulates it downward, to as low as 15 pounds per square inch. The higher pressures atomize the paint better, but at the cost of more over spray. A decent 100 buck HVLP can also spray a very narrow pattern, and when used with low pressure, almost no overspray. For water control, I made a primary water trap myself, then used a filter/desiccant to get the air really dry. You can get them at NAPA, and they go inline right before the gun. For my water trap, (follow along carefully, here g) I took the air from the compressor, and went into a 1 1/4" T, with the air coming in the side. On the bottom side of the T, there is a petcock (valve) to drain out water once it accumulates. You can also leave it open a very small amount, and water will dribble out. In the top of the T, there is a 6' tall 1 1/4" steel pipe, and at the top a reducing coupler, which goes to a regulator, and then to a quick connector to hook your air line into, going to your sprayer. The trap works better than commercial units for two reasons. One, is that the small air line going into a large pipe will allow the air to cool, and will cause the water vapor to condense out. Two, since the air is moving so slowly, the water will run down the sides of the pipe, and can drain out the bottom. -- Jim in NC |
#5
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Learning to spray paint
Morgans wrote:
The water trap suggestions should be taken as a "must." I am not sure how it carries to using an airbrush, but I would imagine that it does. I use a HVLP conversion sprayer, which is High Volume Low Pressure and the conversion means it takes relatively high compressor pressure, and regulates it downward, to as low as 15 pounds per square inch. The higher pressures atomize the paint better, but at the cost of more over spray. A decent 100 buck HVLP can also spray a very narrow pattern, and when used with low pressure, almost no overspray. For water control, I made a primary water trap myself, then used a filter/desiccant to get the air really dry. You can get them at NAPA, and they go inline right before the gun. For my water trap, (follow along carefully, here g) I took the air from the compressor, and went into a 1 1/4" T, with the air coming in the side. On the bottom side of the T, there is a petcock (valve) to drain out water once it accumulates. You can also leave it open a very small amount, and water will dribble out. In the top of the T, there is a 6' tall 1 1/4" steel pipe, and at the top a reducing coupler, which goes to a regulator, and then to a quick connector to hook your air line into, going to your sprayer. The trap works better than commercial units for two reasons. One, is that the small air line going into a large pipe will allow the air to cool, and will cause the water vapor to condense out. Two, since the air is moving so slowly, the water will run down the sides of the pipe, and can drain out the bottom. I second the HVLP approach. Mine is a $90 Harbor Freight cheapie that I've used for the last 8 years. It makes very little overspray, and works fine. Richard |
#6
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Learning to spray paint
"cavelamb himself" wrote I second the HVLP approach. Mine is a $90 Harbor Freight cheapie that I've used for the last 8 years. It makes very little overspray, and works fine. I should add that there is not enough tea in China to make me spray a fuselage with an airbrush, when I could fill the quart HVLP gun one time, or perhaps two, and do it all. The waste factor difference would be very small, indeed. -- Jim in NC |
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