LS-1f Wheel Brake Cable Routing

Does anyone have a picture or diagram of how the cable is routed to the wheel brake on an LS-1? Currently the brake works but my A&P is positive that it cannot be how it left the factory. Im trying to not pay a one year fee to get a quick diagram of the cable routing. Any help would be appreciated.

The LS-4 had a Tech Note about the wheel brake lever, something to do with getting caught on a winch cable if I remember correctly. (Sold my LS-4 20+ years ago) The arm was rotated so it would not get caught.
Looking on the DG website, that was TM4019. Didn't see a similar TM for the LS-1, but someone may have considered that if it's a problem for the 4 it could be for the LS-1 variants? They may use the same Kobold brake.
See if you can get a copy of TM4019.
Jim

On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 4:31:30 AM UTC+2, wrote:
Does anyone have a picture or diagram of how the cable is routed to the wheel brake on an LS-1? Currently the brake works but my A&P is positive that it cannot be how it left the factory. Im trying to not pay a one year fee to get a quick diagram of the cable routing. Any help would be appreciated.

The installation from the factory has room for improvement.
The original route is from the Brake pushrod, down into the paddle-box into a Teflon tube. On the front wall of the paddle box is there a pulley, from the pulley goes the wire in free air, over the wheel axle to the brake.
This leads to two mayor issues:
Then retracting the wheel is there a lot of slack in the wire, i can jump off the pulley and the braking effect becomes zero next time you extract the wheel.
The wire literally geos over the wheel shaft, without any kind of protection. This leads to excessive wear and tear of both the wire and the shaft.

Tost offers a nice but expensive solution. Too the “lilleput� wheel hub is there a pneumatic kit for the brake. Cost is about 1000€ + time for modification.
I have made another modification. Removed the Teflon tube and the pulley, installed a 2mm Bowden cable from the local MC- shop, it is attached beneath the top of the paddle-box and goes directly to the brake leveler on wheel hub. It is not approved by the maintenance manual but it gives me a more reliably and easier to maintain wheel brake solution.

I had changed the mechanical Tost drum brake on my Ventus to the hydraulic drum brake from Tost.
Don't. It's a closed hydraulic system and a massive pain to bleed (and the hydraulic hose connections don't aspire any trust in terms of leakage). Even if there is no air in the system, you still have a drum brake.
Changed to the new Tost hydraulic disc brake 3 years later. 1800 Euros plus work, but it's a very good system.

Bert
Ventus cM "TW"

I agree, the disk brake from tost is a big improvement, however, the kit is for newer Ventus, my older (1984) B model, we had to do alot of reconfiguring and making shims to make it right. I really think it could have been better worked for that kind of money. A friend copied mine to put on a mini nimbus and got all of the same parts, wheel hub, caliper, master cylinder and associated parts for around 300 versus 2000 for tost

On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 3:23:37 AM UTC-5, Per Carlin wrote:
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 4:31:30 AM UTC+2, wrote:
Does anyone have a picture or diagram of how the cable is routed to the wheel brake on an LS-1? Currently the brake works but my A&P is positive that it cannot be how it left the factory. Im trying to not pay a one year fee to get a quick diagram of the cable routing. Any help would be appreciated.

The installation from the factory has room for improvement.
The original route is from the Brake pushrod, down into the paddle-box into a Teflon tube. On the front wall of the paddle box is there a pulley, from the pulley goes the wire in free air, over the wheel axle to the brake.
This leads to two mayor issues:
Then retracting the wheel is there a lot of slack in the wire, i can jump off the pulley and the braking effect becomes zero next time you extract the wheel.
The wire literally geos over the wheel shaft, without any kind of protection. This leads to excessive wear and tear of both the wire and the shaft.

Tost offers a nice but expensive solution. Too the “lilleput� wheel hub is there a pneumatic kit for the brake. Cost is about 1000€ + time for modification.
I have made another modification. Removed the Teflon tube and the pulley, installed a 2mm Bowden cable from the local MC- shop, it is attached beneath the top of the paddle-box and goes directly to the brake leveler on wheel hub. It is not approved by the maintenance manual but it gives me a more reliably and easier to maintain wheel brake solution.

That is a pretty good description of how my LS-1 is rigged right now. Hopefully this will be enough that I do not need to get factory support to confirm that LS-1 brakes are not very good. Thanks for the help.