Polisher/buffer selection

At 00:30 23 November 2005,
wrote:
Kirk, I'm also trying to solve the problem of the layer
of fossilized
ballast that's firmly stuck to much of my fuselage
and underwings. It
laughs at the Wx and I want to declare war.

~tuno


I wouldn't try to buff off lime deposits. Use 1 part
muriatic acid to 3 parts water (ALWAYS POUR THE ACID
INTO THE WATER) and apply with a sponge. While not
real a strong acid mix keep it off your skin and clothes.
This is the standard lime remover for pool equipment.

I don't know if the following will remove lime deposits,
but it cleaned up my dirty old gel coat very nicely:

Use scouring powder, such as Comet or Ajax. Get the
type with bleach.

I used a sponge and a good bit of water and thoroughly
scrubbed my entire glider. I guess it is similar to
sanding.

Ray Lovinggood
Carrboro, North Carolina, USA

At 12:24 24 November 2005, Gary Evans wrote:
At 00:30 23 November 2005,
wrote:
Kirk, I'm also trying to solve the problem of the layer
of fossilized
ballast that's firmly stuck to much of my fuselage
and underwings. It
laughs at the Wx and I want to declare war.

~tuno


I wouldn't try to buff off lime deposits. Use 1 part
muriatic acid to 3 parts water (ALWAYS POUR THE ACID
INTO THE WATER) and apply with a sponge. While not
real a strong acid mix keep it off your skin and clothes.
This is the standard lime remover for pool equipment.

Where do I get muriatic acid? Pool supply stores?

Distilled water! Wow! Will they deliver to Hobbs, Moriarty, and Ely?

Is there anything that can be added to hard city water to prevent it
from leaving a deposit?

At 15:42 24 November 2005,
wrote:
Where do I get muriatic acid? Pool supply stores?




Most any place that sells pool supplies will carry
it. Should also mention to not get it on metal parts,
as it will cause corrosion.

I will keep it well clear of the left handed gizflitchy

wrote:
Where do I get muriatic acid? Pool supply stores?

Another name for hydrochloric acid. Most hardware stores have it as it's
commonly used for cleaning concrete (in diluted form, of course).

Tony V
http://home.comcast.net/~verhulst/SOARING

I went to an Automotive Finish store and they were quite helpful with
buffers and such. I bought a variable speed 750 ~ 3000 rpm of
questionable lineage, but I figured using it 2 or three times a year I
would do just fine and in my 3rd year it has been just that. I think I
paid 110 US clams. I made up for it in accessories though. You will buy
a soft rubber disk that attaches to the buffer. It's face has velcro
"hooks" that will provide the surface for whatever foam or wool pads
you plan to attach. The pad as the "loops" of the velcro. I works well,
velcro is magic.

Here is a link for some auto equip that has pictures of the pads and
such.

http://www.levineautoparts.com/buffers.html

You can go on 3M's site, but it is quite cumbersome. Just google foam
compound pad 3M and you will find all sorts of places and pictures.

Remember that you are polishing plastic, not paint. Keep the rpms down
below 2000 and keep moving or you will heat things up, and that is VERY
bad.

After polishing with the perfect it, make sure you get all the grit off
by going over it with a cloth by hand. After that, I use the WX block
and apply it by hand, then use the wool pad with the buffer to knock
off the haze and WALLAH. You will need sunglasses to rig, and it will
last a good season. I don't recommend using the perfect it too
frequently, not even yearly. It is a rubbing compound, so every time
you use it you are taking off material. Do it once, and keep a good wax
on it and that is all you will need if you keep up the wax. I believe
there is a Marine 3M product with little or no silicone that is similar
to WX block, but I can't seem to run into it and WX block is only a
phone call away.

One other thing. You will sling it everywhere, so don't do this in a
tuxedo or around anything that won't like dried compound on it. Don't
get it on your canopy, and if you do, get it off with a wet cloth
before it dries so you don't scratch it. I had the wing next to the
fuselage first time- I found out the hard way.

Oh. Do your ailerons by hand, don't even think about it.

Good Luck

Joe Flores Atlanta GA



wrote:
Gary,

Can you help me with some specifics. You said "Orbital machines are for
polishing wax". But if my notes are correct, polishing and waxing are
two different exercises, one preparing the surface and the other
protecting it. Can you clarify?

Also, what is buffing? What is cutting? What's the difference between a
buffer and polisher? 1750rpm and 8 in foam pads on what type or brand
of machine? I see 6, 7, 8, and 10 inch pads; can typical machines
handle multiple pad sizes?

I remember a little less than two years ago going through a state of
careful study mixed with terminal confusion when I was learning about
flight computers, loggers and electric varios. This is déjà vu!

~ted

When Estrella still had a working well I filled my water tank from it
then added about a cup of white vinegar. The salts are deposited to the
bottom of the water tank. This only works if you use a transfer tank
of course. City of Glendale water does not seem to be a problem.

If you have to use hard water dry the glider off first thing after
clearing the runway.

Andy

Use a water transfer tank. Add about a cup of white vinegar for 50
gals of water. Salts are deposited out before water is loaded into
wings.


Andy