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#21
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Transponder antenna installations
I hate to break it to you, but a Becker 4401-175 installed using RG-58
as an antenna line violates Becker’s instructions. They state in paragraph 5C that only RG-223 is to be used with the 4401-175. RG-58 can only be used with a 4401-250. Don’t overlook that you also must comply with paragraph 6E, where you must check the power at the antenna end of the cable. I’d bet that a 4401-175 using RG-58 will not meet Becker’s power spec of 18.5 dBW. As far as the non-mention of LM240 in the Becker manual, I’d bet you’re allowed as an A&P to attach data showing that LM240 exceeds the performance of RG-223. This data, combined with the mandatory power test proving that the 4401-175 installed using LM240 exceeds the Becker requirement of 18.5 dBW at the antenna end of the cable, would make you golden. Unfortunately, you have to buy male BNC and male TNC crimp connectors when you buy the LM240. They’re a buck more expensive than RG-58 connectors. But your crimper will definitely work. Your log book entry would simply say that the Becker 4401-175 was installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, except for the use of an antenna cable that exceeds the manufacturer’s cable specifications which results in greater power being delivered to the antenna. I guess you could attribute the idea of using a better cable to RAS, if you liked – humor shouldn’t a violation of the A&P code, is it? -John On Feb 7, 9:18 am, JJ Sinclair wrote: The Becker 4401-175 manual does say that RG-223/U is preferred over RGU-58, but it doesn't mention LM-240? As a mechanic I am bound to follow the appropriate tech data. Does LM-240 use the same BNC fittings I have in stock? Can I use my crimper? What would my log book entry say? Installed Becker 4401-175 transponder in accordance with opinions found on ras? :) JJ |
#22
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Transponder antenna installations
In article jcarlyle writes:
I hate to break it to you, but a Becker 4401-175 installed using RG-58 as an antenna line violates Becker's instructions. They state in paragraph 5C that only RG-223 is to be used with the 4401-175. RG-58 can only be used with a 4401-250. Don't overlook that you also must comply with paragraph 6E, where you must check the power at the antenna end of the cable. I'd bet that a 4401-175 using RG-58 will not meet Becker's power spec of 18.5 dBW. Remember to account for the greater loss of the cable after 10 - 20 years. As far as the non-mention of LM240 in the Becker manual, I'd bet you're allowed as an A&P to attach data showing that LM240 exceeds the performance of RG-223. This data, combined with the mandatory power test proving that the 4401-175 installed using LM240 exceeds the Becker requirement of 18.5 dBW at the antenna end of the cable, would make you golden. Unfortunately, you have to buy male BNC and male TNC crimp connectors when you buy the LM240. They're a buck more expensive than RG-58 connectors. But your crimper will definitely work. I doubt it. LMR 240 is larger in diameter than RG-58. The crimper for RG-59 might be a closer fit. Your log book entry would simply say that the Becker 4401-175 was installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, except for the use of an antenna cable that exceeds the manufacturer's cable specifications which results in greater power being delivered to the antenna. I guess you could attribute the idea of using a better cable to RAS, if you liked =96 humor shouldn't a violation of the A&P code, is it? The problem is that "better" isn't just lower loss per foot when the cable is new. There may be a lot of other factors that the manufacturer took into account with their cable selection. "Better" needs to be better in all of these factors. The transponder may need a minimum amount of loss in the coax to ensure that the SWR seen by the transmitter is low enough in case something gets near the antenna. (This would protect both the transmitter, and the receiver, as a mismatch at the duplexer often reduces the isolation between the transmitter output and the receiver input.) -John On Feb 7, 9:18 am, JJ Sinclair wrote: The Becker 4401-175 manual does say that RG-223/U is preferred over RGU-58, but it doesn't mention LM-240? As a mechanic I am bound to follow the appropriate tech data. Does LM-240 use the same BNC fittings I have in stock? Can I use my crimper? What would my log book entry say? Installed Becker 4401-175 transponder in accordance with opinions found on ras? :) JJ I suspect it LMR 240 would work better than the other cables, both in loss and service life, but I don't know it. As JJ notes, he doesn't know it for sure, and and would need to. Alan |
#23
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Transponder antenna installations
Alan,
The best way to answer is to quote from section 5.11.2 of the Trig installation manual. They state that excessive cable loss will degrade both transmitter output power and receiver sensitivity. Then they define the three qualities of an acceptable cable: (1) less than 1.5 dB loss for the run length, (2) a characteristic impedance of 50 ohms, and (3) double braid screens, or a foil and braid screen. They then say that their table of maximum usable lengths for common cable types is a guide only, and tell you to refer to manufacturer’s data sheets for your specific chosen cable. This is clearly permission to choose your cable type, as long as it meets Trig’s three acceptance criteria above as backed up by specific manufacturer’s data. As for “knowing” about cables, like anything else you need to do research and get educated. I’ve tried to let this forum know that there are much better choices for microwave cable than RG-58 and RG-400. Naturally, people will do as they wish, even to the extent of tossing away transponder output power and getting less receiver sensitivity. It may work out OK, or it might possibly be a link in an accident chain someday. I have the satisfaction of knowing that in my transponder installations pilots are getting 175 W transponders that meet or exceed their performance specifications for just $20 extra in cable. -John On Feb 8, 2:04 am, (Alan) wrote: The problem is that "better" isn't just lower loss per foot when the cable is new. There may be a lot of other factors that the manufacturer took into account with their cable selection. "Better" needs to be better in all of these factors. The transponder may need a minimum amount of loss in the coax to ensure that the SWR seen by the transmitter is low enough in case something gets near the antenna. (This would protect both the transmitter, and the receiver, as a mismatch at the duplexer often reduces the isolation between the transmitter output and the receiver input.) I suspect it LMR 240 would work better than the other cables, both in loss and service life, but I don't know it. As JJ notes, he doesn't know it for sure, and and would need to. Alan |
#24
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Transponder antenna installations
A bit off topic but when I bought my glider the transponder antenna (flat L2 type) was mounted under the seatpan on the "floor" of the fuselage. After reading some links in this thread I see that, according to the manufacturer, the antenna should be mounted vertically. Where would one typically do this? There aren't many flat vertical surfaces other than the main bulkhead. Glass, not carbon fiber, ship. This is my first glider with a transponder and I admit ignorance on the topic.
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#25
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Transponder antenna installations
On Tuesday, December 31, 2019 at 10:04:40 AM UTC-8, wrote:
A bit off topic but when I bought my glider the transponder antenna (flat L2 type) was mounted under the seatpan on the "floor" of the fuselage. After reading some links in this thread I see that, according to the manufacturer, the antenna should be mounted vertically. Where would one typically do this? There aren't many flat vertical surfaces other than the main bulkhead. Glass, not carbon fiber, ship. This is my first glider with a transponder and I admit ignorance on the topic. Yep, wrong polarization orientation, and the testicle thing. As you likely are working out there often is no *great* place to mount an antenna. Many people would make up a vertical mount out of plywood or fiberglass or just a block of balsa and find a place on one side of the fuselage to mount this down the tail boom to mount this. You want to avoid the antenna being near conductive components and that is often a problem finding space away from control linkage and other hardware, and you have rudder cables and elevator etc. running down the fuselage. Have a look around and see. It may be better to mount an external 1/4 wave antenna with internal ground plane..... If you end up with longer coax runs pay attention to using a correct high-spec cable, especially with Trig transponders. And secure the cable well so there is no movement. |
#26
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Transponder antenna installations
I cut a piece of balsa wood that matched the curve of the fuselage, aft of the landing gear. I bonded the L2 to the wood and then the wood to the fuselage. The biggest challenge was getting the antenna cable routed, and then plugged into the antenna.
Mike |
#27
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Transponder antenna installations
Further up the thread:
Carve a1"X 1"X4" balsawood block so that it matches the inside curve of your non-carbon fuselage, then glue the antenna vertical to the flat side and the curved side to the inside aft fuselage. Keep it about 6" away from metal objects like your elevator push-rod, etc. Secure the RG-58 lead so that it can't get tangled with controls and you're good to go. Hope this helps, JJ |
#28
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Transponder antenna installations
I'll agree with Darryl that the rear fuselage / tail cone is a good place to mount an L2 antenna – provided that you can reach the area
AND get an adequate coax there. See https://www.timesmicrowave.com for a coax calculator. Do make very sure that nothing will come loose and interfere with the elevator pushrod, or anything else. Darryl and I disagree on mounting an L2 antenna in the forward fuselage. That said, my installation forward of the rudder pedals in my previous ASW-20 passed the transponder test and ATC had no complaints. To shape the balsa, stick 80 grit sandpaper on the site with double sided tape and sand away. |
#29
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Transponder antenna installations
On Sunday, February 6, 2011 at 7:55:37 PM UTC-8, Paul Remde wrote:
Hi, The Trig TT21 and TT22 manual is also quite fussy about transponder antenna cable. But it important to note that many of the "long run" antenna cables they recommend are extremely expensive. I recommend mounting the transponder unit (it is separate from the control head) as close to the antenna as possible. When that is done I have received customer feedback that RG-58 cable works fine - with all required tests passed with flying colors. Paul Remde "Eric Greenwell" wrote in message ... On 2/6/2011 11:18 AM, JJ Sinclair wrote: On Feb 6, 11:12 am, wrote: I understand your point - I saw those suggestions on my L2 instructions, laughed, and pitched it. Why should you pay for transponder output just to heat up the antenna cable with outdated RG-58, when low loss LM240 is only $0.70 more per foot? And if RG-58 is bad, RG-174 is 4 times worse... The instructions from Advanced Aircraft Electronics call for RG-58A/U unless wire bundle size is critical where the smaller RG-174/U may be used if length is held to 20 feet or less. JJ- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You're right John.................I'll disregard the manufactures instructions and go with something I heard on ras............. Yeah, right! JJ, call AAE and ask about the LM240 cable. It might be their recommendation was aimed at airplanes carrying 200+ watt transponders and using shorter cable runs, compared to gliders that might using units with 150 watts or less and long cable runs. Also, looking at the transponder manufacturer's recommendation is probably a better indication of what's needed than the antenna manufacturer. My Becker instructions made quite a fuss about which cable to use. Generally, I like to go the "good stuff" for transponders, as attenuation per foot is much higher at transponder frequencies than our communication radios frequencies (factor of 8). -- Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to email me) I installed an antenna as recommended by SH on my Ventus 2c, down by the wheel. Drilling the hole was traumatic. SH recommended carefully drilling a small hole then using a fine file to gently enlarge it, and that worked well. I installed an aluminum sheet ground plane inside the fuselage, since I could find no clear advice on whether carbon fiber is or is not an adequate ground plane. Even though I only had about a 5ft cable run to the antenna, I used low-loss coax cable recommended by Trig, and got the cable custom cut to length with the proper connectors attached. Its important that the coax connectors are properly fitted, and I didn't have the proper crimper. I also looked up the coax cable specs and found that there was a limitation on the radius that the cable should be bent, and I kept within that bend spec. Its not only that cable and connectors and bends can cause attenuation, they can cause reflections back to the transponder which can upset it's operation. |
#30
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Transponder antenna installations
On Tuesday, December 31, 2019 at 4:43:49 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 6, 2011 at 7:55:37 PM UTC-8, Paul Remde wrote: Hi, The Trig TT21 and TT22 manual is also quite fussy about transponder antenna cable. But it important to note that many of the "long run" antenna cables they recommend are extremely expensive. I recommend mounting the transponder unit (it is separate from the control head) as close to the antenna as possible. When that is done I have received customer feedback that RG-58 cable works fine - with all required tests passed with flying colors. Paul Remde "Eric Greenwell" wrote in message ... On 2/6/2011 11:18 AM, JJ Sinclair wrote: On Feb 6, 11:12 am, wrote: I understand your point - I saw those suggestions on my L2 instructions, laughed, and pitched it. Why should you pay for transponder output just to heat up the antenna cable with outdated RG-58, when low loss LM240 is only $0.70 more per foot? And if RG-58 is bad, RG-174 is 4 times worse... The instructions from Advanced Aircraft Electronics call for RG-58A/U unless wire bundle size is critical where the smaller RG-174/U may be used if length is held to 20 feet or less. JJ- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You're right John.................I'll disregard the manufactures instructions and go with something I heard on ras............. Yeah, right! JJ, call AAE and ask about the LM240 cable. It might be their recommendation was aimed at airplanes carrying 200+ watt transponders and using shorter cable runs, compared to gliders that might using units with 150 watts or less and long cable runs. Also, looking at the transponder manufacturer's recommendation is probably a better indication of what's needed than the antenna manufacturer. My Becker instructions made quite a fuss about which cable to use. Generally, I like to go the "good stuff" for transponders, as attenuation per foot is much higher at transponder frequencies than our communication radios frequencies (factor of 8). -- Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to email me) I installed an antenna as recommended by SH on my Ventus 2c, down by the wheel. Drilling the hole was traumatic. SH recommended carefully drilling a small hole then using a fine file to gently enlarge it, and that worked well. I installed an aluminum sheet ground plane inside the fuselage, since I could find no clear advice on whether carbon fiber is or is not an adequate ground plane. Even though I only had about a 5ft cable run to the antenna, I used low-loss coax cable recommended by Trig, and got the cable custom cut to length with the proper connectors attached. Its important that the coax connectors are properly fitted, and I didn't have the proper crimper. I also looked up the coax cable specs and found that there was a limitation on the radius that the cable should be bent, and I kept within that bend spec. Its not only that cable and connectors and bends can cause attenuation, they can cause reflections back to the transponder which can upset it's operation. Trig specifies that the cable loss must be no more than 1.5 dB. They have a table of acceptable cables in their installation manual. RG304 is ok for runs up to 3.8 m (12.5 ft). Tom |
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