20B Panel

On Feb 18, 10:03*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:
With all the talk about computer generated panels, I would offer this.
It is quite easy to redo an old fiberglass panel.............just
grind the back of the panel down until its paper thin, then clamp a
smooth surface to the front (I use a clean hunk of aluminum), then lay
in 3 layers of medium cloth (92125) and after its cured, pop off the
front piece and you have a clean, flat new panel to drill what and
where you like. I use hole-saws in a drill press (drilling from the
rear) Tidy up any minor depressions with bondo, prime and paint with
flat-black spray can. The original panel mounting holes can be drilled
out again and everything fits back in the cockpit with mininum hassle.
Cheers,
JJ

Just a quick variation on this theme. I had a minor panel reconfigure
job last week involving the relocation of some panel mount fuses and
switches in order to take advantage of that space for a new
transponder. I used JJ's approach with some minor modifications and
it worked outstandingly well:

- Used a piece of plywood instead of aluminum and covered it with
duct tape as the release agent.
- Filled from the back using Bondo impregnated with chopped glass as
the filler (these were only dime-sized holes)
- Upon removal, had a very smooth surface complete with "simulated
glass weave" thanks to the pattern in the duct tape.
- Quick surface coat of regular bondo folloed by flat black spray and
ended up with a perfect repair.

Saved me probably $200 for a new panel blank not to mention countless
hours re-drilling all of the instrument holes.

Thanks JJ

On Apr 1, 2:42*pm, Papa3 wrote:
On Feb 18, 10:03*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:

With all the talk about computer generated panels, I would offer this.
It is quite easy to redo an old fiberglass panel.............just
grind the back of the panel down until its paper thin, then clamp a
smooth surface to the front (I use a clean hunk of aluminum), then lay
in 3 layers of medium cloth (92125) and after its cured, pop off the
front piece and you have a clean, flat new panel to drill what and
where you like. I use hole-saws in a drill press (drilling from the
rear) Tidy up any minor depressions with bondo, prime and paint with
flat-black spray can. The original panel mounting holes can be drilled
out again and everything fits back in the cockpit with mininum hassle.
Cheers,
JJ

Just a quick variation on this theme. *I had a minor panel reconfigure
job last week involving the relocation of some panel mount fuses and
switches in order to take advantage of that space for a new
transponder. * I used JJ's approach with some minor modifications and
it worked outstandingly well:

- *Used a piece of plywood instead of aluminum and covered it with
duct tape as the release agent.
- *Filled from the back using Bondo impregnated with chopped glass as
the filler (these were only dime-sized holes)
- *Upon removal, had a very smooth surface complete with "simulated
glass weave" thanks to the pattern in the duct tape.
- *Quick surface coat of regular bondo folloed by flat black spray and
ended up with a perfect repair.

Saved me probably $200 for a new panel blank not to mention countless
hours re-drilling all of the instrument holes.

Thanks JJ

I do it JJ's way and have done probably 20 panels this way. Little
cost, and you don't have to doall the stuff that's right all over
again.
I find satin Rustoleum give nice finish and seems to resist scuffs a
little better than flat.
UH