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Adjusting the canopy frame on an Arcus M



 
 
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  #11  
Old January 8th 19, 02:56 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Muttley
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Posts: 89
Default Adjusting the canopy frame on an Arcus M

I had this posted on the Arcus Google Group ,which by the way you should join as you get some good information there (Schempp-Hirth Arcus) including discussion on Canopy.

I had the same problem with my Duo Discus and a Blue Tinted Canopy .

I got a Canopy Cover made up from a Material similar to Hyperkewl http://www.techniche-intl.com/technologies/hyperkewl/
Powered by HyperKewl - TechNiche Intl.
EVAPORATIVE COOLING HyperKewl™ Evaporative Cooling material is a unique fabric that absorbs and slowly releases water through evaporation. We look at this process as “super-charging” the bodies natural cooling process, thereby protecting the wearer against heat stress.
www.techniche-intl.com
You soak this completely in water for a few minutes, then dry the inside and i used to place it over the normal grey canopy
cover as not to scratch the canopy as the inside was a plastic material. I used to place it on the glider in the morning before
the Sun started to Heat up. Even the outside Fabric Skin dried up very quickly the evaporative cooling worked for quite a few hours
because of the structure of the inside of this material. The closing the canopy before the flight was no longer a problem and the
Cockpit was also at an agreeable Temperature. However you had to be reasonably swift between taking off the cover and
closing the Canopy for Departure. You also needed somebody to take the cover away as you could not store it in the Cockpit.
Mine used to live in a Coolbox. So it worked well during my stays in the South of France (St. Auban) and Spain (Ocana) and Australia (Benalla)
After a few years the Canopy settled down and I gave the cover to Uli Schwenk of Jaxida Covers, as I thought he could be interested in
commercializing the product. No idea why this was not pursued as in my opinion it worked!!

Bruno
  #12  
Old January 8th 19, 07:40 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Bob Kuykendall
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Default Adjusting the canopy frame on an Arcus M

On Tuesday, January 8, 2019 at 2:35:19 AM UTC-8, Tony wrote:
$250k for a canopy that won't close. Daaaang.


The main issues here are design and the immutable properties of materials. The longer an acrylic canopy is, the greater its mismatch with the fuselage opening as it heats up.

Two-seaters with two separate canopies generally don't have these problems. Or at least, not to the degree such that heroics are required to latch the canopy. But apparently they don't look as good as a large single-piece canopy. And, of course, the two-canopy solution has a longer seal perimeter, with more opportunities for leakage and laminar flow disruption.

I think that if the manufacturers really want to make operational gliders with these long one-piece canopies, they should step up to the plate and do what is necessary to accommodate the almost inevitable thermal mismatch. It shouldn't be that hard to create an expansion zone at the aft canopy bow that accommodates up to 10mm of length change, sealed over with a mylar or similar strip that reduces airflow disruption.

--Bob K.
  #13  
Old January 8th 19, 09:25 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
[email protected]
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Default Adjusting the canopy frame on an Arcus M

Three tips to close a tight canopy in hot weather.

1. When my ASW 24 was new and I went to Hobbs, I had to carefully sand the frame (rear center), as UH described.

2. Last year, the canopy became difficult to close in hot weather (this was both before and after the bullet holes, btw). "Helpful" ground crews were, at one point, slamming their fists into the rear frame until I finally got them to stop and gently *push down on the nose of the fuselage" to lift the tailwheel off the ground. That flexed the forward fuselage enough that the canopy dropped into place easily and I locked it down.

3. Also last year, it got easier to close when I waxed around the perimeter of the fuselage cutout where it touches the canopy frame in the labyrinth seal to reduce sliding friction. Before that, black paint from the underside of the canopy frame was sticking to the white gel coated fuselage cutout.

I don't know how applicable these tips are to a typical high-performance two-seater with a nose wheel, however.

Chip Bearden
 




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