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#11
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George/Dave: I used balsa wood sheets tacked down to the correct contour on a
former rather than felt. It worked well for small size side windows in our kitchen oven. Larry |
#12
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"George A. Graham" wrote in message ... On Sun, 6 Feb 2005, Blueskies wrote: Details about the oven? That would depend on the size of the windows. I made mine out of foil faced rigid insulation board, held into box shape with duct tape, the handyman's secret weapon. The tape went soft and let go when heated, so I had to use nails into wood corner strips. It was four by three by two feet overall. A baseboard heater three feet long was modified to eliminate the tip-over switch, so that it could lay flat on it's back on the floor of the oven. I had a thermometer stuck through the wall, and controlled the heater by unplugging it. The lid was hinged so that I could peek inside to watch the window. Certainly disposable. George Graham RX-7 Powered Graham-EZ, N4449E Homepage http://bfn.org/~ca266 Thanks! I've been thinking about a 'curved' windshield for the BD-4... |
#13
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richard riley wrote:
On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 02:35:47 GMT, "Blueskies" wrote: :: etails about the oven? Way back when I formed plexi after heating in a box with about 4 light bulbs... I've been doing some vacuforming with 1/8" acrylic, using a machine much like this one... Years ago I was hanging out with Jackie Yoder and he was explaining how he bent the lens for his "in the wing" landing lights. Just a plywood box with an old heating element (I think he said he scrounged it out of a dryer). Takes a few practice attempts to get it right, but acrylic is cheap. For those who were arguing the materials: Most aircraft "glass" is acrylic (plexiglas is a brandname for acrylic). It's not quite as strong, but is easier to work and can be reheated (theroforming). Some people do use polycarbonate (lexan is a trade name for that). It's much stronger (bulletproof even), but can scratch badly. It's harder to work (thermosetting). |
#14
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In article ,
"Dick" wrote: George or Richard, A little off the subject. A fellow at my airport had heard of a method to remove scratches. It involved plastic, I think acrylic, figurines and a propane torch heating slightly the scratches to "erase" them. I was wondering if anyone had any such knowledge. My yet-to-be installed, 20year old canopy was lightly sanded with the wrong grit and scratched up both inside and outside. After researching the methods available to sand/polish them out and considering greatly differing opinions, I'd like to find another method short of buying/making a new canopy. Thanks, Dick I have an experiment: 1. Take a piece of Plexiglass scrap and cut it qith a bandsaw. 2. File the big scratches and gouges out of the sawed end. 3. Start wet sanding with #320, then #400, then #600, then #1200, then #2000 grit, stepping up the grit as smoothness is reached. Wash between sandings. 4. Take automotive rubbing compound to the edges worked and look for polished areas. 5. When the whole desired area appears polished, apply automotive polishing compound. (You can also use tooth powder.) Use lots of water in all processes. You can also start with a piece of scratched-up Plexiglass and work through the same steps. The end result is a piece of polished Plexiglass with no visible scratches. |
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