Rust removal?

Hi All,

Hopefully a simple quick question:

I pulled my glider out of the trailer after a long winter recently,
and found that I hadn't greased my lift-pins quite well enough. There
are a few small spots of surface corrosion on them, and I'd like to
get rid of it.

BUT, given the importance of the lift pins I don't want to just go
grinding on them. Anyone have any suggestions on the best/least-
destructive way to get rid of minor surface rust/corrosion on parts
like this?

Thanks a bunch,

--Noel

On Feb 25, 12:47*pm, "noel.wade" wrote:
Hi All,

Hopefully a simple quick question:

I pulled my glider out of the trailer after a long winter recently,
and found that I hadn't greased my lift-pins quite well enough. *There
are a few small spots of surface corrosion on them, and I'd like to
get rid of it.

BUT, given the importance of the lift pins I don't want to just go
grinding on them. *Anyone have any suggestions on the best/least-
destructive way to get rid of minor surface rust/corrosion on parts
like this?

Thanks a bunch,

--Noel

A green scotchbrite pad lubricated with WD-40 or LPS, etc, does a good
job of pulling up surface corrosion without significantly influencing
the parent material.

Craig

On Feb 25, 1:53*pm, Craig wrote:
On Feb 25, 12:47*pm, "noel.wade" wrote:



Hi All,

Hopefully a simple quick question:

I pulled my glider out of the trailer after a long winter recently,
and found that I hadn't greased my lift-pins quite well enough. *There
are a few small spots of surface corrosion on them, and I'd like to
get rid of it.

BUT, given the importance of the lift pins I don't want to just go
grinding on them. *Anyone have any suggestions on the best/least-
destructive way to get rid of minor surface rust/corrosion on parts
like this?

Thanks a bunch,

--Noel

A green scotchbrite pad lubricated with WD-40 or LPS, etc, does a good
job of pulling up surface corrosion without significantly influencing
the parent material.

Craig

Good suggestion. But if that doesn't remove it all, try a fine steel
wool. Start gently, then buff and lubricate when satisfied.

Jeff 7JK

On Feb 25, 1:12*pm, wrote:
On Feb 25, 1:53*pm, Craig wrote:





On Feb 25, 12:47*pm, "noel.wade" wrote:

Hi All,

Hopefully a simple quick question:

I pulled my glider out of the trailer after a long winter recently,
and found that I hadn't greased my lift-pins quite well enough. *There
are a few small spots of surface corrosion on them, and I'd like to
get rid of it.

BUT, given the importance of the lift pins I don't want to just go
grinding on them. *Anyone have any suggestions on the best/least-
destructive way to get rid of minor surface rust/corrosion on parts
like this?

Thanks a bunch,

--Noel

A green scotchbrite pad lubricated with WD-40 or LPS, etc, does a good
job of pulling up surface corrosion without significantly influencing
the parent material.

Craig

Good suggestion. But if that doesn't remove it all, try a fine steel
wool. Start gently, then buff and lubricate when satisfied.

Jeff * * 7JK- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Naval Jelly, then rinse well

Aerodyne

Come on guys, those pins are 10 times stronger than they need to
be..............sand off the rust with 220 or emery cloth and lube
them next time. I keep my pins in two large plastic tubes with lube
inside (duct-taped together) as I remove them they pick up just
enpough lube to shove them home.
JJ

wrote:
On Feb 25, 1:12*pm, wrote:
On Feb 25, 1:53*pm, Craig wrote:





On Feb 25, 12:47*pm, "noel.wade" wrote:

Hi All,

Hopefully a simple quick question:

I pulled my glider out of the trailer after a long winter recently,
and found that I hadn't greased my lift-pins quite well enough. *There
are a few small spots of surface corrosion on them, and I'd like to
get rid of it.

BUT, given the importance of the lift pins I don't want to just go
grinding on them. *Anyone have any suggestions on the best/least-
destructive way to get rid of minor surface rust/corrosion on parts
like this?

Thanks a bunch,

--Noel

A green scotchbrite pad lubricated with WD-40 or LPS, etc, does a good
job of pulling up surface corrosion without significantly influencing
the parent material.

Craig

Good suggestion. But if that doesn't remove it all, try a fine steel
wool. Start gently, then buff and lubricate when satisfied.

Jeff * * 7JK- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Naval Jelly, then rinse well

Aerodyne

noel.wade wrote:
Hi All,

Hopefully a simple quick question:

I pulled my glider out of the trailer after a long winter recently,
and found that I hadn't greased my lift-pins quite well enough. There
are a few small spots of surface corrosion on them, and I'd like to
get rid of it.

BUT, given the importance of the lift pins I don't want to just go
grinding on them. Anyone have any suggestions on the best/least-
destructive way to get rid of minor surface rust/corrosion on parts
like this?

Thanks a bunch,

--Noel



Noel

To prevent this in the future try this. Mix some LPS 3 (very waxy) and
white lithium grease into a paste and coat any metal surface that you do
not want to rust. It's very effective, easy to remove in the Spring and
cheap.

Paul
ZZ

On Feb 25, 6:26*pm, JJ Sinclair wrote:
Come on guys, those pins are 10 times stronger than they need to
be..............sand off the rust with 220 or emery cloth and lube
them next time. I keep my pins in two large plastic tubes with lube
inside (duct-taped together) as I remove them they pick up just
enpough lube to shove them home.
JJ


Hey JJ - any reason to be concerned about the tightness of the fit of
the pins in the bushings? I'd think you wouldn't want a shimmy in
flight. Is there any risk of that?

Andy

Hey JJ - any reason to be concerned about the tightness of the fit of
the pins in the bushings? I'd think you wouldn't want a shimmy in
flight. Is there any risk of that?

Andy

Some will experience what is known as the "clunk". That is the sound
you may hear when rolling into a thermal. It is the fuselage sliding
in the lift fittings and going "clunk". If you hear this you need at
least a 20 thousands shim on one aft lift fitting, determine which one
by measuring from the TE probe on the fin with a steel tape to a
common point on each wing, say the aileron cut-out. Don't be surprised
to find your prize possession is off by close to an inch! This will
tell you where to epoxy the shim onto one of the aft lift fittings.
Some will find their lift fittings are too tight which makes getting
the wing onto the lift fittings a chore. Clean the fittings and scrub
them with magic-marker, then put it together again. Then remove the
wing and observe the magic-marked pins. The shinny spots show the
interference fit areas. My ship showed a problem on the front end of
the forward lift fitting and the back end of the aft lift fitting. It
took months of working these areas down with emery cloth every time I
flew to finally get the wing to slide on easily. Believe me you don't
remove much steel with sandpaper!
JJ

JJ -

My fault, I wasn't clear enough - I meant the _other_ "lift-pins". My
spar pins are exactly as you describe: Kept in a set of PVC tubes with
well-greased felt inside so that they "self lubricate" every time I
pull them out or put them back in the holders.

I was referring to the alignment pins on each side of the fuselage
that plug into the root rib sockets and ensure the wing is at its
proper angle of incidence relative to the fuselage. They're a lot
smaller and I don't think I want "variable incidence" wings as I fly
around... ;-)

Thanks,

--Noel

On Feb 26, 6:32*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:
This will tell you where to epoxy the shim onto one of the aft lift fittings.

I don't doubt JJ knows this but the Schleicher approved method of
shimming the lift pins is to remove the lift pins and put the shims
behind them.

When I did this job on my 19 I found it best to do a trial fit by
putting the shims on the outside face of the lift pins. A little
grease will hold them in place. When the right additional shim
thickness is found the lift pins are driven out, the shim stack
adjusted, and the lift pins driven back in. I set mine up so there
was no detectable fore/aft motion at the wing tips but the main spar
pins could still be easily inserted.

Andy