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#1
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New Lycoming cylinder
I just replaced a cylnider in my IO-360 with a new cylinder kit from
Lycoming. Where can I find the service instructions on how to correctly break the cylinder in? |
#2
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New Lycoming cylinder
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/cgi-...k+in+procedure
A new nitride cylinder will break in fast. Keep your power high, don't baby it. Straight mineral oil. Jim "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message oups.com... I just replaced a cylnider in my IO-360 with a new cylinder kit from Lycoming. Where can I find the service instructions on how to correctly break the cylinder in? |
#3
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New Lycoming cylinder
On Aug 31, 11:02 am, "Jim Burns" wrote:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/cgi-...=break+in+proc... A new nitride cylinder will break in fast. Keep your power high, don't baby it. Straight mineral oil. Now the A&P is saying that mineral oil is out-dated and that modern synth oils are better for break in than mineral oil. |
#4
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New Lycoming cylinder
Interesting.
I'd call Lycoming on that before I'd let anybody try synthetic oil in my new cylinder. It's my understanding that the reason straight mineral oil is used for break in is that it does not contain detergents, adjuvant, or anti-wear agents. Mineral oil will allow the proper amount of heat, friction, and pressure to develop in the cylinder necessary to allow your rings to set properly, without suspending particles and forcing them back through your new cylinder. Unless somebody has developed a special synthetic oil designed for break-ins, I would think that a synthetic oil would contain these undesirable agents. I would also suspect a synthetic as well as being "too slippery" or capable of removing too much heat, preventing the rings from setting properly. What brand/type of oil is your A&P recommending? Any supporting info from the manufacturer? Lycoming? Jim "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message oups.com... On Aug 31, 11:02 am, "Jim Burns" wrote: http://www.lycoming.textron.com/cgi-...=break+in+proc... A new nitride cylinder will break in fast. Keep your power high, don't baby it. Straight mineral oil. Now the A&P is saying that mineral oil is out-dated and that modern synth oils are better for break in than mineral oil. |
#5
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New Lycoming cylinder
"Jim Burns" wrote: A new nitride cylinder will break in fast. Keep your power high, don't baby it. Right. And keep it cool so it won't glaze. Full rich or close to it, cowl flaps wide open. -- Dan T-182T at BFM |
#6
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New Lycoming cylinder
On Aug 31, 2:49 pm, "Dan Luke" wrote:
"Jim Burns" wrote: A new nitride cylinder will break in fast. Keep your power high, don't baby it. Right. And keep it cool so it won't glaze. Full rich or close to it, cowl flaps wide open. Actually my concern is not getting it hot. My engine CHT's run about 290-300F in the winter and 360-380 in the summer in cruise. I'm afraid that won't be enough to get a good seating. |
#7
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New Lycoming cylinder
If I remember, you're non-turbo'd, right? Fly below 6000ft density alt and
you should be able to develop 65-75% power at full throttle, high RPMs, and a nearly full rich mixture. This should seat the rings just fine. It's the pressure in the cylinder forcing the rings outward that seats them. Keep the head cool so your new valve seats don't wander. Jim "Robert M. Gary" wrote in message oups.com... On Aug 31, 2:49 pm, "Dan Luke" wrote: "Jim Burns" wrote: A new nitride cylinder will break in fast. Keep your power high, don't baby it. Right. And keep it cool so it won't glaze. Full rich or close to it, cowl flaps wide open. Actually my concern is not getting it hot. My engine CHT's run about 290-300F in the winter and 360-380 in the summer in cruise. I'm afraid that won't be enough to get a good seating. |
#8
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New Lycoming cylinder
"Robert M. Gary" wrote: And keep it cool so it won't glaze. Full rich or close to it, cowl flaps wide open. Actually my concern is not getting it hot. My engine CHT's run about 290-300F in the winter and 360-380 in the summer in cruise. I'm afraid that won't be enough to get a good seating. Heat is NOT what seats the rings. Simple wear does it. Keep your new cyl. cool or it'll glaze and you'll have to have it re-hatched. -- Dan T-182T at BFM |
#9
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New Lycoming cylinder
"Dan Luke" wrote Heat is NOT what seats the rings. Simple wear does it. Keep your new cyl. cool or it'll glaze and you'll have to have it re-hatched. But what I read says pressure is what does it, and letting the engine get too cool is very bad, too. -- Jim in NC |
#10
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New Lycoming cylinder
"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message oups.com... I just replaced a cylnider in my IO-360 with a new cylinder kit from Lycoming. Where can I find the service instructions on how to correctly break the cylinder in? http://www.lycoming.com/support/publ...fs/SI1427B.pdf http://www.lycoming.com/support/publ...fs/SI1014M.pdf (see specifically bottom of page 2) |
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