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Survival II



 
 
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  #1  
Old June 8th 06, 05:18 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
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Default Survival II

To All:

About a month ago I posted a message having to do with aircraft crash
survival in which I touched on the ability to make a fire, and the
features found in a good survival knife. The post produced the usual
comments some of which were rather surprising and may be of interest to
some of you.

MATCHES

The ability to make fire is fundamental to survival and, all else being
equal (never a safe bet :-) the handiest way to do so is to simply
strike a match. But based on the comments I received not everyone is
aware that matches come in two basic flavors and a variety of sizes.

The two basic types of match are those which may be scratched anywhere
versus the 'safety' type which can on be struck on an abrasive pad
treated with red phosphorus. The 'strike-anywhere' type are
preferred since there's no need to provide for the special
striking-surface.

The surprise came from hearing some folks insist that the
'strike-anywhere' type of match was not available, at least to
them. I assume they are the victim of some do-gooder regulation which
allows only the sale of 'safety-type' matches in their locale.

The splint or wooden portion of a standard kitchen match is 2-3/8" long
(ie, about 60mm). This length is a NECESSITY when lighting certain
lanterns and some gas-fired appliances. By comparison, a standard
'box-match' has a splint only 1-3/4" long (45mm). I was surprised
to learn that some people thought any WOODEN match was a 'kitchen'
match and referred to them as such. A couple of these folks mentioned
carrying 'kitchen' matches in a 35mm film canister; clearly
impossible since such canisters are only about 1-3/4" deep.

Another surprise had to do with water-proofing a wooden match.
Everyone who mentioned water-proofing said that simply dipping the head
of the match into melted paraffin would do the trick. And they're
right. But no one mentioned the need to REMOVE the wax before trying
to strike the thing, causing me to suspect they were simply repeating
something they'd heard. The paraffin makes an excellent water
barrier but it's also a very good lubricant. Since ignition of the
match depends upon FRICTION, if you don't remove the wax (or at
least, most of it) you'll simply scrub the head off the match without
ever causing it to light.

MATCH SAFES

Several people mentioned their preferred method of storing matches.
I've already mentioned the 35mm film canister, which is perfectly
suitable for the small, box-type matches. Others mentioned
commercially available match-safes, cigar tubes and even a specially
made jobbie a fellow turned from a bar of aluminum.

Personally, I've found a regular pill bottle from the local pharmacy
makes an excellent container for kitchen matches, water-proofed or
not. A couple of cotton balls keeps the matches from rattling around
and a few turns of duct-tape will keep the pill bottle from cracking
should it get banged around. In fact, since we're forced to ride the
plane down, you might consider taping a pill-bottle of matches to some
protected portion of the airframe.

IN DEFENSE OF THE BFK

As with ability to make fire, when it comes to survival the need for a
knife -- for the ability to cut things, beginning with your own safety
harness -- is fundamental. Experience has shown that a pocket-knife
that is HABITUALLY carried is more practical than a special-purpose
'survival knife' that is not. The key issue here is not the type of
knife nor its size but the fact you always have it with you.

Two people insisted their Rambo-esque knives were a necessity since
they might be needed to chop their way out of the downed aircraft. In
that case I think the wiser course is to permanently install such a
device in your cockpit and thereafter consider it as part of the
airplane rather than part of your survival kit.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

General Aviation attracts a lot of wingless vultures eager to make a
buck by preying upon the unwary. One method of doing so is to sell
junk disguised as kits of 'survival' gear. But when the problem of
post-crash survival is examined realistically it doesn't take a rocket
scientist to see that the average home-builder is liable to be better
prepared at lower cost (and less weight) by simply applying a bit of
common sense to the problem.

-R.S.Hoover

  #2  
Old June 8th 06, 05:42 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
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Default Survival II


wrote:



MATCHES

...

The two basic types of match are those which may be scratched anywhere
versus the 'safety' type which can on be struck on an abrasive pad
treated with red phosphorus. The 'strike-anywhere' type are
preferred since there's no need to provide for the special
striking-surface.

The surprise came from hearing some folks insist that the
'strike-anywhere' type of match was not available, at least to
them. I assume they are the victim of some do-gooder regulation which
allows only the sale of 'safety-type' matches in their locale.


This "do-gooder' legislation is some of the oldest occupational
health and safety legislation around. As a schoolkid I remember
reading that the use of white phosphorous in kitchen mathes had
been banned to protect the workers from the terible effects of the
material. That is in the early 1960s (when I read it) I don't recall
any mention of how long ago they had been banned, but I do
recall that Ohio Blue tip (stirke anywhere) matches were always
availabel locally so maybe the ban was incomplete or had
been eroding since the developement of automated manufacturing.

...

Another surprise had to do with water-proofing a wooden match.
Everyone who mentioned water-proofing said that simply dipping the head
of the match into melted paraffin would do the trick. And they're
right. But no one mentioned the need to REMOVE the wax before trying
to strike the thing, causing me to suspect they were simply repeating
something they'd heard. The paraffin makes an excellent water
barrier but it's also a very good lubricant. Since ignition of the
match depends upon FRICTION, if you don't remove the wax (or at
least, most of it) you'll simply scrub the head off the match without
ever causing it to light.


Indeed, my brother and I didn't realize that when we tried out
the aterproof matches I had bought. He nicknamed them
'fireproof' matches.

--

FF

  #3  
Old June 8th 06, 06:09 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
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Default Survival II

wrote)
The 'strike-anywhere' type are preferred since there's no need to provide
for the special
striking-surface.


As kids, we would wait for a calm dark night to go out into the street with
our "farmer matches" and a straw. We'd "shoot" the matches out the straw, up
into the still night air, then wait to see where they landed. Hours of fun.
Pops would come out, shoot up a few himself, say, "neat - make sure you
watch out for cars," and return inside ...leaving us kids alone outside, to
play with matches. :-)

Several people mentioned their preferred method of storing matches. I've
already mentioned the 35mm film canister, which is perfectly suitable for
the small, box-type matches.


ONE suggestion for camping is obvious (only "after" the first - oops. g)
Don't pack all your matches in ONE container.

Two or three containers: You'll be tripping over them all week.
One container: You'll misplace it - guaranteed! (BTDT)


Montblack

  #5  
Old June 8th 06, 08:19 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
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Default Survival II


"Montblack" wrote

As kids, we would wait for a calm dark night to go out into the street
with our "farmer matches" and a straw. We'd "shoot" the matches out the
straw, up into the still night air, then wait to see where they landed.
Hours of fun. Pops would come out, shoot up a few himself, say, "neat -
make sure you watch out for cars," and return inside ...leaving us kids
alone outside, to play with matches. :-)


We found that if you wrapped aluminum foil over the tip, (broke off most of
the wood first) then shaped the aluminum over the back a little like a
rocket nozzle, you could shoot them a good distance. Just need heat on the
tip to get it started.
--
Jim in NC


  #6  
Old June 8th 06, 08:59 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
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Posts: n/a
Default Survival II

wrote in message
ps.com...
To All:

excellent post veedub, but I would add a thought or two.

one should learn how to make a fire without matches. in a crashed vehicle
you have all sorts of materials that "should" be able to make the sparks
necessary to get a light. even if your battery croaks a permanent magnet
motor and a filament from a light bulb can torch up some tinder. even if the
battery fails it still might have enough juice to produce light up a flight
chart scraped up for tinder.

or a Fresnel lens, although only good during daylight hours.

regardless of the equipment, one needs the skill. how many of you can make a
fire with only one match? how many of you can make up tinder?

as for the knife, you hit it on the head veedub, chuck one in the plane and
forget it. all my vehicles have pocket knives. usually in the glove
compartment. a survival knife isn't worth it.

anecdote. the first season my dad went deer hunting he bought a 6 inch long
hunting knife, a fairly good one. after getting his first kill he realized
he did not know how to field dress a deer. luckily along came a man who was
more knowledgeable than my dad and offered to dress it for him. the gent
took out a tiny pocket knife and preceded to dress the deer, while my dad
felt a little sheepish with his 6 inch knife on his belt.

still has that 6 inch knife, good for splitting pelvises, but a two inch
blade is a bit better for field dressing.


  #7  
Old June 8th 06, 10:26 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
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Default Survival II


who cares? wrote:

What about carrying one of those disposable cigarrette lighters that you can
buy at walmart for less than a dollar?

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

While there's no reason NOT to include disposable flint or piezo
lighters in your survival kit, in practice you will find the larger,
hotter flame provided by a kitchen match to be more practical when it
comes to starting a fire using whatever tinder is locally available.

-R.S.Hoover

  #8  
Old June 9th 06, 01:28 AM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Survival II

wrote in message
ps.com...
To All:

About a month ago I posted a message having to do with aircraft crash
survival in which I touched on the ability to make a fire, and the
features found in a good survival knife. The post produced the usual
comments some of which were rather surprising and may be of interest to
some of you.

MATCHES

The splint or wooden portion of a standard kitchen match is 2-3/8" long
(ie, about 60mm). This length is a NECESSITY when lighting certain
lanterns and some gas-fired appliances. By comparison, a standard
'box-match' has a splint only 1-3/4" long (45mm). I was surprised
to learn that some people thought any WOODEN match was a 'kitchen'
match and referred to them as such. A couple of these folks mentioned
carrying 'kitchen' matches in a 35mm film canister; clearly
impossible since such canisters are only about 1-3/4" deep.


Picking one little nit here, if you don't have something that needs the
length, once you snap off the excess wood, 2-3/8" matches fit just fine in a
1-3/4" canister.


General Aviation attracts a lot of wingless vultures eager to make a

buck by preying upon the unwary. One method of doing so is to sell
junk disguised as kits of 'survival' gear. But when the problem of
post-crash survival is examined realistically it doesn't take a rocket
scientist to see that the average home-builder is liable to be better
prepared at lower cost (and less weight) by simply applying a bit of
common sense to the problem.


Took a trip across Canada/Alaska in a C120, so of course we took "survival
gear". Talking to a "local" he suggested some snare wire - really handy
stuff - easy to catch rabbits and such for food he sez. Sure. Easy if you
have a clue as to what to do with it... I'm 99.9% sure that I'd never make
it work on my own. On the other hand, safety wire is a good thing to have
along for 101 uses. Duct tape wrapped around the handle of one of your
wrenches is handy too.

A little practice close to home so you know what to do with the stuff (and
if it works) makes a lot of sense, eh?

Anyhow, keep up the good work.

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.


  #9  
Old June 9th 06, 01:32 AM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
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Posts: n/a
Default Survival II

On Thu, 8 Jun 2006 15:19:44 -0400, "Morgans" wrote:


"Montblack" wrote

As kids, we would wait for a calm dark night to go out into the street
with our "farmer matches" and a straw. We'd "shoot" the matches out the
straw, up into the still night air, then wait to see where they landed.
Hours of fun. Pops would come out, shoot up a few himself, say, "neat -
make sure you watch out for cars," and return inside ...leaving us kids
alone outside, to play with matches. :-)


We found that if you wrapped aluminum foil over the tip, (broke off most of
the wood first) then shaped the aluminum over the back a little like a
rocket nozzle, you could shoot them a good distance. Just need heat on the
tip to get it started.


We used to disassemble a wooden clothespin, turn the two pieces of wood
back-to-back, and slip the steel spring over them with one "arm" inside. You
could then cock the spring and slip a farmer match between the jaws. The coil
spring was a natural trigger, and when you pulled it, the contrivance
simultaneously launched the match while igniting it.

Used to ride our bicycles in dogfights shooting at each other....

Ron Wanttaja
  #10  
Old June 9th 06, 02:45 AM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
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Posts: n/a
Default Survival II

My wife (who, in a previous life, did things like take two-week back
country canoe trips with her High Adventure Explorers post in Texas,
with responsibility for food and material planning for twelve 18-year
olds, ie, she can look out for herself) encouraged me to write:

We were car camping once in a rental car and wanted to start a camp
stove. We had very carefully packed matches. Turned out there are two
different kinds of even Ohio Blue Tips, safety- and non. Laura had
packed safety in a match safe. No strike-strip.

We fussed over the notion for several minutes that we had a car with a
full gas tank and a lot of readily available energy in its battery, and
we couldn't figure out how to light a safe fire. What to do?

I extracted a bulb from the brake light and crushed the glass envelope.
I instructed Laura to get in the car and step on the brake pedal when
told to do so. I held a match on the hot filament, lit the match, lit a
candle from the match, etc. We had a nice dinner.

We stopped at a hardware store on the way to the car drop-off point to
get a new bulb. We considered presenting the receipt to the rental
company: "We found that the bulb needed to be replaced..."

Keep track of match type.

David


wrote:

The two basic types of match are those which may be scratched anywhere
versus the 'safety' type which can on be struck on an abrasive pad
treated with red phosphorus. The 'strike-anywhere' type are
preferred since there's no need to provide for the special
striking-surface.

The surprise came from hearing some folks insist that the
'strike-anywhere' type of match was not available, at least to
them. I assume they are the victim of some do-gooder regulation which
allows only the sale of 'safety-type' matches in their locale.

 




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