Welding 4130...

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On Feb 24, 1:40 am, "Mike Young" wrote:
"Blueskies" wrote in message

. ..







wrote in message
roups.com...
: On Feb 23, 5:20 pm, "Blueskies" wrote:
:
: and I need about 1' of 3" wide 0.065" 4130, so I am planning to buy
some strips from them also.
:
: Side note, any hints on cutting the strip?
:
:
: Buy a metal-cutting abrasive disc (chop-saw disc) at the hardware
: store in a size that'll fit your table saw. It'll zip through 4130
: nicely. Lots of noise, lots of sparks, so wear hearing and eye
: protection and make sure your work area is free of anything that might
: burn or smolder.
:
: Dan
:

Good idea, thanks!

lotsa sparks, smoldering, noise! Life is good!

Great for entertaining the grandkids, but not so good if you're an arbor
bearing. The grit accelerates wear... yada yada. For stuff that size, buy a
small bench shear from Grizzly or Horrible Fright. It'll cost less than
overhauling your good power tools, not to mention being generally useful for
sheet metal work.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Been cutting steel on a couple of tablesaws for a long time
now. No bearing hassles. If the bearings were really old and the seals
were gone, it sure would be a problem.


Dan

"Blueskies" wrote in message news:VwLDh.1061
I don't have a bunch of thin scrap to work on, but I do have some old 1/8"
iron that I am playing with, and then going
back to the 4130 scraps and blowing holes through it. I see Spruce has a
grab bag of shorts that I will probably buy,
and I need about 1' of 3" wide 0.065" 4130, so I am planning to buy some
strips from them also.

Side note, any hints on cutting the strip?


You might be able to cut .065" on a wood cutting band saw, on high speed,
the faster the better. Use an old fine tooth blade. Leaves a nasty burr, but
cuts very fast.

I used to cut sheet steel this way quite often. But I don't remember how
thick. It might be limited to 030 or 040, but I think I have done some 065
with good results.

Kind of like cutting barn metal with a skill saw, and the blade mounted
backwards.

Dan_ wrote
Been cutting steel on a couple of tablesaws for a long time
now. No bearing hassles. If the bearings were really old and the seals
were gone, it sure would be a problem.

I third your no problems.

I have an Old Milwaukee circular saw that I have been using since 1982, and
a good part of that was 5 days a week professional carpentry. It has also
cut way too many feet of steel to count, up to 3/8" thick.

It has never had the bearings touched, or even regreased.

I'm not sure how much of this is a testament for the saw's manufacturer, or
that cutting steel will not hurt bearings.
--
Jim in NC

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

Dan_ wrote
Been cutting steel on a couple of tablesaws for a long time
now. No bearing hassles. If the bearings were really old and the seals
were gone, it sure would be a problem.

I third your no problems.

I have an Old Milwaukee circular saw that I have been using since 1982,
and a good part of that was 5 days a week professional carpentry. It has
also cut way too many feet of steel to count, up to 3/8" thick.

It has never had the bearings touched, or even regreased.

I'm not sure how much of this is a testament for the saw's manufacturer,
or that cutting steel will not hurt bearings.
--
Jim in NC


I have had a bearing problems with my Skil Saw. Not the motor, but the guard
bearing is very rough from cutting metal siding.

While *most* sealed bearings found on motors or jackshafts *shouldn't* have
a problem. A number of guards and guides found on woodworking equipent were
not designed with metal grindings in mind, and they can indeed cause a
problem.

Also, most quality friction saws designed for steel include TEFC, totally
enclosed fan cooled motors. While circular saws and most table saws do not.
And unlike wood dust, the build up of metallic duct inside these motors can
easily cause dangerous and catistrophic failures. Read *fireworks* and
shocking experiences. Especially in the quality metal framed tools like the
older Skil and Milwaukee brands. So your mileage may certainly vary.

The only problems I have personally experienced with Old Milwaukee brand
products were different levels of morning sickness.

"Maxwell" wrote

I have had a bearing problems with my Skil Saw. Not the motor, but the
guard bearing is very rough from cutting metal siding.

That is a definite problem, but easily cured by taking apart the guard, and
cleaning and regreasing the sliding surfaces. That is all they are, is two
pieces of metal sliding on each other, with a brass shim between some of
them.

I have had far more problems with the guard gunking up cutting concrete and
other masonry, than cutting steel. Again, about a half hour, clean the
guard, and back in business.


The only problems I have personally experienced with Old Milwaukee brand
products were different levels of morning sickness.

chuckle That HAD to be a Freudian slip, or something. I too, have been
harmed far more by OLD Milwaukee, than by my Milwaukee circular saw.

No doubt, those blades make a mess. Cleaning is a necessary part of the
deal.

Nowadays, diamond blades are cheap enough to justify using them, over the
sacrificing blades. They are much cleaner.
--
Jim in NC

Maxwell wrote:
"Blueskies" wrote in message news:VwLDh.1061
I don't have a bunch of thin scrap to work on, but I do have some old 1/8"
iron that I am playing with, and then going
back to the 4130 scraps and blowing holes through it. I see Spruce has a
grab bag of shorts that I will probably buy,
and I need about 1' of 3" wide 0.065" 4130, so I am planning to buy some
strips from them also.

Side note, any hints on cutting the strip?


You might be able to cut .065" on a wood cutting band saw, on high speed,
the faster the better. Use an old fine tooth blade. Leaves a nasty burr, but
cuts very fast.

I used to cut sheet steel this way quite often. But I don't remember how
thick. It might be limited to 030 or 040, but I think I have done some 065
with good results.

Kind of like cutting barn metal with a skill saw, and the blade mounted
backwards.



Are you talking about friction cutting?

"J.Kahn" wrote in message
...
Maxwell wrote:
"Blueskies" wrote in message
news:VwLDh.1061
I don't have a bunch of thin scrap to work on, but I do have some old
1/8" iron that I am playing with, and then going
back to the 4130 scraps and blowing holes through it. I see Spruce has a
grab bag of shorts that I will probably buy,
and I need about 1' of 3" wide 0.065" 4130, so I am planning to buy some
strips from them also.

Side note, any hints on cutting the strip?


You might be able to cut .065" on a wood cutting band saw, on high speed,
the faster the better. Use an old fine tooth blade. Leaves a nasty burr,
but cuts very fast.

I used to cut sheet steel this way quite often. But I don't remember how
thick. It might be limited to 030 or 040, but I think I have done some
065 with good results.

Kind of like cutting barn metal with a skill saw, and the blade mounted
backwards.



Are you talking about friction cutting?

I guess you would have to call it that. It was told to me years ago from a
old sheet metal journeyman. It did forget to mention though, it makes a LOT
of noise. I have done a lot of 22 ga. steel. But I think I did some 065
stainless too, but it's been too long to recall for sure. If you have a
vertical band saw that will run 600 fpm or up, grab an old 8 pitch blade,
max the speed out, and give it a try. It takes a bit of extra feed pressure,
so be careful where you place your fingers. The material jumps a bit at the
end of each cut, just like anytime you use a lot of feed pressure.
Surprisingly the blade seems to last forever.

Maxwell wrote:
"J.Kahn" wrote in message
...
Maxwell wrote:
"Blueskies" wrote in message
news:VwLDh.1061
I don't have a bunch of thin scrap to work on, but I do have some old
1/8" iron that I am playing with, and then going
back to the 4130 scraps and blowing holes through it. I see Spruce has a
grab bag of shorts that I will probably buy,
and I need about 1' of 3" wide 0.065" 4130, so I am planning to buy some
strips from them also.

Side note, any hints on cutting the strip?

You might be able to cut .065" on a wood cutting band saw, on high speed,
the faster the better. Use an old fine tooth blade. Leaves a nasty burr,
but cuts very fast.

I used to cut sheet steel this way quite often. But I don't remember how
thick. It might be limited to 030 or 040, but I think I have done some
065 with good results.

Kind of like cutting barn metal with a skill saw, and the blade mounted
backwards.



Are you talking about friction cutting?

I guess you would have to call it that. It was told to me years ago from a
old sheet metal journeyman. It did forget to mention though, it makes a LOT
of noise. I have done a lot of 22 ga. steel. But I think I did some 065
stainless too, but it's been too long to recall for sure. If you have a
vertical band saw that will run 600 fpm or up, grab an old 8 pitch blade,
max the speed out, and give it a try. It takes a bit of extra feed pressure,
so be careful where you place your fingers. The material jumps a bit at the
end of each cut, just like anytime you use a lot of feed pressure.
Surprisingly the blade seems to last forever.



What I've read about is taking an old blade and filing off the teeth to
make it smooth and friction cutting that way. I was cutting a little
piece of mild steel on a hobby band saw with a small 1/2 inch metal
cutting blade, and it seemed like the teeth were doing nothing but when
I pushed hard enough suddenly it would go quickly until the blade would
jam and bog it down. I guess it was friction cutting but it didn't get
red or anything.