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#11
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wrote in message
... Isn't the aircraft tach run off the cam, too? Thus indicating 2500 RPM would require the cable at 1250? When Cy mentioned that, I remembered it. I've got a couple of small synchronus motors out in the shop. I'll hook one of them up and see if I can get an accurate reading on the dial. Whatever you do... don't tell them it's for an airplane... Learned that lesson well when I was building. Example - an automotive spring shop refused to sell me some leaf spring stock until I came back the next day and told them it was for an invention for the handicapped and NOT for an airplane. Spring stock fer Pete's sake! Rich S. |
#13
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"Cy Galley" wrote in message
news:eAeid.52917$R05.12713@attbi_s53... You can take it to an automotive speedometer shop and they can clean, lubricate, and calibrate. Tell them that it is driven off the cam in your stock car so they get it right and don't panic. Okay, Cy - here's what I found out. The speedo shop said they would be happy to look at it and fix it, even if they have to throw away the guts and replace them with a new SW unit. If they have the parts, it would be $92 for an overhaul. A completely new unit would run ~$120. They said the common problem with this type of tach is worn bearings on the cup shaft which allows interference between the cable shaft and the cup. The scuff marks in my tach make it appear as if this is the problem. I think I'll buy another used but operative unit. Prices seem to run in the $40-60 range. If it lasts another three years I'll be happy. Rich |
#14
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"Rich S." wrote in message ...
wrote in message ... How about either a change inmagnetic flux or a change in the position of the EC (Edy Current) ring? A weakened magnet would cause the reading to DROP. So something that causes the aluminum disc to get closer to the magnet would cause the RPM to read high, or something that causes the air movement from the spinning magnet to influence the disc - like a bit of oil or grease from the cable migrating into the instrument. Like I said, everything looked fine inside (no dirt or grease). There is a scuff mark on the inside of the disk which could be new or old. If lubing the cable doesn't do the trick, I'll probably send it out to be rebuilt; unless the cost is more than another used unit. Thanks, Rich S. Look closer. The inboard end of the shaft that carries the needle fits into a tiny bore in the inboard end of the input shaft to keep the magnet and drum concentric with one another. This close fit is subject to dried-out lube or a bit of grit interfering with the needle shaft's freedom and drives the needle up. Or it might be worn to the point that it's chattering and adding friction, with the same result. Dan |
#15
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"Rich S." wrote in message ...
Whatever you do... don't tell them it's for an airplane... Learned that lesson well when I was building. Example - an automotive spring shop refused to sell me some leaf spring stock until I came back the next day and told them it was for an invention for the handicapped and NOT for an airplane. Spring stock fer Pete's sake! I like to tell them I'm building a variable oscillating frambulator. That pretty much results in a blank stare from the other side of the counter, and an end to the questions. John Galban=====N4BQ (PA28-180) |
#16
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"Dan Thomas" wrote in message
om... Look closer. The inboard end of the shaft that carries the needle fits into a tiny bore in the inboard end of the input shaft to keep the magnet and drum concentric with one another. This close fit is subject to dried-out lube or a bit of grit interfering with the needle shaft's freedom and drives the needle up. Or it might be worn to the point that it's chattering and adding friction, with the same result. Thanks, Dan. If you read my other post to Cy, you'll know that since I didn't find anything my limited talents could repair I'm choosing the cheaper option of replacing it with a used unit rather than a rebuild. Now if I could just get the rest of me repaired or rebuilt! Rich "My needle is worn to the point of chattering" S. |
#17
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#18
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#19
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My experience has, to a large extent, been opposite.
Mine has been mixed. Posted previously, updated: Shop #1 Me: Hey, you got any XXX fittings? Parts Desk Guy: Whatcha need 'em for? M: Puttin' an engine in an airplane. PDG, suddenly very formal: Sir, you'll have to go to an airplane shop for that. Try the airport. Shop #2 Me: Hey, you got any XXX fittings? Parts Desk Guy: Whatcha need 'em for? M (who doesn't like to lie and doesn't always think fast on his feet): Uhhhh...an airplane...? PDG: Cool. Here ya go. Shop #3 Me: Hey, you got any YYY fittings? Parts Desk Guy: Whatcha need 'em for? M (a little smarter and cautious): An RV. PDG: Must be pretty high performance. Too bad it's not an airplane, the boss loves that stuff. M: Um... PDG: I get it. C'mon in the back, have some coffee, take a look around. Shop #4 Me: Hey, you got any YYY fittings? Parts Desk Guy: Whatcha need 'em for? M (now fearless): An RV. PDG: Here y'go. Y'know, a lot of guys put this stuff in airplanes. Don't bother me none. Dave 'locals only' Hyde ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- |
#20
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"Rich S." wrote in message
... I think I'll buy another used but operative unit. Prices seem to run in the $40-60 range. If it lasts another three years I'll be happy. Rich Just curious... Why would you want to get a second-hand, unknown history instrument for $50 when the difference to a new instrument is about as much as one long flight?!? You are going to rely on that instrument for years to properly run a $15000 engine in a $40000 plane (guestimates..), why not get a new one that will probably last the remainder of the plane's life?? Rob |
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