what went wrong

Having spent 4-1/2 hours removing and 1 hour replacing a leaking split seal
on the front of my flanged crankshaft C-85 , my first flight today still
shows leakage....

Never really doing those old Chevy two part split seals well, I guess I'm
still inept G.

I think I'll be able to better the aforementioned time durations but would
appreciate any hints at doing a better job this time.

Thanks, Dick

"Dick" wrote in message
news:c26ui.7629$dD3.905@trnddc07...
Having spent 4-1/2 hours removing and 1 hour replacing a leaking split
seal on the front of my flanged crankshaft C-85 , my first flight today
still shows leakage....

Never really doing those old Chevy two part split seals well, I guess I'm
still inept G.

I think I'll be able to better the aforementioned time durations but would
appreciate any hints at doing a better job this time.

Thanks, Dick

OK, I aint no A&P...

but, what kind of shape is the crankshaft surface in?

Is the crankcase vent flowing without obstruction?

What did you use to re-install the new seal?

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

no visible scratches or marks on crank; vent is flowing; slightly oiled
perimeter and pushed into engine case with wood handle of screwdriver...seal
split is at about 1pm position.

placing spring ends together and getting up into the seal insides was
difficult.. Can I assume once up there the spring stays??? Anybody know ??


"Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe" The Sea Hawk at wow way d0t com wrote in message
news:OvWdnS8oJJ_7aSXbnZ2dnUVZ_rmjnZ2d@wideopenwest .com...
"Dick" wrote in message
news:c26ui.7629$dD3.905@trnddc07...
Having spent 4-1/2 hours removing and 1 hour replacing a leaking split
seal on the front of my flanged crankshaft C-85 , my first flight today
still shows leakage....

Never really doing those old Chevy two part split seals well, I guess I'm
still inept G.

I think I'll be able to better the aforementioned time durations but
would appreciate any hints at doing a better job this time.

Thanks, Dick

OK, I aint no A&P...

but, what kind of shape is the crankshaft surface in?

Is the crankcase vent flowing without obstruction?

What did you use to re-install the new seal?

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

On Aug 7, 5:56 pm, "Dick" wrote:
no visible scratches or marks on crank; vent is flowing; slightly oiled
perimeter and pushed into engine case with wood handle of screwdriver...seal
split is at about 1pm position.

placing spring ends together and getting up into the seal insides was
difficult.. Can I assume once up there the spring stays??? Anybody know ??


Should have used rubber cement (3M's 847) on the outer
perimeter and in the engine case bore. The spring might have popped
off if you didn't keep the split ends lined up as you pushed the seal
in.

Dan

how would I get this new unglued seal out for another try? I destroyed the
old one getting it out. New one had the tightest split I had ever
experienced but finally was able to push enough to get the entire seal into
the bore.

do you think I should go ahead and order another seal?
wrote in message
oups.com...
On Aug 7, 5:56 pm, "Dick" wrote:
no visible scratches or marks on crank; vent is flowing; slightly oiled
perimeter and pushed into engine case with wood handle of
screwdriver...seal
split is at about 1pm position.

placing spring ends together and getting up into the seal insides was
difficult.. Can I assume once up there the spring stays??? Anybody know
??


Should have used rubber cement (3M's 847) on the outer
perimeter and in the engine case bore. The spring might have popped
off if you didn't keep the split ends lined up as you pushed the seal
in.

Dan

On Aug 8, 1:28 pm, "Dick" wrote:
how would I get this new unglued seal out for another try? I destroyed the
old one getting it out. New one had the tightest split I had ever
experienced but finally was able to push enough to get the entire seal into
the bore.

do you think I should go ahead and order another seal?

I wonder if a little air pressure up the breather might help
that seal come out again? And then check the bore to see that there
isn't some dried adhesive in there that may be interfering with the
sealing of the seal against the case.
But just a little pressu you don't want to start blowing
gaskets or tachometer drive seals.

Dan

I'm hesitant on the air pressure but will think on it.

Tomorrow I will look at the old chewed up seal to see if I can possibly pry
at seal/case edge on 4-8-12 oclock positions and conceivably get it out in
one piece. My gut says I'll destroy it and need to order another G.


wrote in message
oups.com...
On Aug 8, 1:28 pm, "Dick" wrote:
how would I get this new unglued seal out for another try? I destroyed
the
old one getting it out. New one had the tightest split I had ever
experienced but finally was able to push enough to get the entire seal
into
the bore.

do you think I should go ahead and order another seal?

I wonder if a little air pressure up the breather might help
that seal come out again? And then check the bore to see that there
isn't some dried adhesive in there that may be interfering with the
sealing of the seal against the case.
But just a little pressu you don't want to start blowing
gaskets or tachometer drive seals.

Dan

Some months back I put a new seal on a C-85 and had it continue to leak.
After a LOT of head scratching it turned out that the breather, which exited
through the cowl, had been repositioned and was pressurizing the crankcase.

Cheers:

Paul
N1431A
KPLU

I'm 99% sure it is not pressurizing but wonder if you used a sealant tween
the seal and case?
"Tri-Pacer" wrote in message
...
Some months back I put a new seal on a C-85 and had it continue to leak.
After a LOT of head scratching it turned out that the breather, which
exited through the cowl, had been repositioned and was pressurizing the
crankcase.

Cheers:

Paul
N1431A
KPLU

Continental which used the same type seal as the Lycoming and Franklin
recommends the split be at 11 or 1 o'clock.(case spilt is at 12. My
recommendation is to use "super glue" on the ends. Make sure the recess is
clean and dry. Use a sealer on the outside. I like Loctite 515 and remember
to replace the garter spring and grease the lip. Look at Continental M76-4
for the complete Continental instructions.


Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A 46 Year Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
"Dick" wrote in message
news:c26ui.7629$dD3.905@trnddc07...
Having spent 4-1/2 hours removing and 1 hour replacing a leaking split
seal on the front of my flanged crankshaft C-85 , my first flight today
still shows leakage....

Never really doing those old Chevy two part split seals well, I guess I'm
still inept G.

I think I'll be able to better the aforementioned time durations but would
appreciate any hints at doing a better job this time.

Thanks, Dick