If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Jonathan Goodish wrote:
I guess they can be hammered if you're skilled at it, but I think that he's referring to the head of the rivet, which looks "smashed" by the brake rivet tool. I personally have two different types of rivet installing tools. One is used by striking a "punch-like" tool, while the other is similar to a C-clamp and squeezes the rivet as you turn the handle. The squeezing tool is much easier to use and yields far more consistent results. In my case, the linings were tight, but the rivets didn't look like the factory ones, so I wasn't sure whether I was missing something. Sounds like your probably OK. -- __!__ Jay and Teresa Masino ___(_)___ http://www2.ari.net/jmasino ! ! ! http://www.oceancityairport.com http://www.oc-adolfos.com |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
On Tue, 17 May 2005 10:32:02 -0500, Don Hammer
wrote: snip The factory puts them on with a roto-pien (sp?) tool. You won't be able to duplicate that. The rivets are a shear device and carry very little load under tension. I always put them on with a light hammer and only tight enough to secure the pad tightly. You don't want to crack the pad. We had one in the shop that used a lead screw on the punch instead of a hammer. Am thinking it was a Rapco product. It did a fine job of "spinning" out the shop heads on the rivets. TC |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
The factory puts them on with a roto-pien (sp?) tool. You won't be
able to duplicate that. The factory squeezes them just like you can, but the tool needs to have the right profile on the face and it has to be properly polished. We have the tools and they work just fine, making rivet flares just like the originals. The biggest hassles include getting them tight enough without cracking the pad and avoiding cracking the rivet flare in more than two places. In the 1970's I sold truck parts and in the back of the shop we had brake relining equipment, including a foot-operated riveter. I relined shoes from a 4" industrial spin-dryer brake to 6" Cushman scooter brakes to autos and light and heavy truck brakes, and the worst were the earthmover shoes that weighed about 50 pounds each and had 96 rivets holding four friction blocks. I learned early on to watch those rivet upset tools, discarding the chipped or worn ones that mashed rivets instead of rolling them over in a proper flare. And I must have absorbed a lot of asbestos... Dan |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Transient alternator problem | John Clonts | Owning | 6 | July 11th 04 06:01 PM |
Captain sim Mig-21 brake chute | Lee Hutchinson | Simulators | 7 | June 1st 04 10:51 AM |
Real World Problem in FS9 | The Real Cali Kid | Simulators | 12 | December 6th 03 11:15 AM |
RF interference issue again (esp. for E Drucker and Jim Weir and other RF wizards) | Snowbird | Home Built | 78 | December 3rd 03 09:10 PM |
Brake line design question | Charlie Smith | Home Built | 0 | July 2nd 03 12:31 PM |