Acrifix repair on Blue - Tinted Canopy ?

Hello,

would anyone have advice on what to do to repair long cracks on a blue-tinted canopy ?
I am sort of good at producing bubble-less repairs on regular plexi and wonder if there is a secret recipe or procedure to tint Acrifix

TIA,

gliderpilotGR

Le jeudi 2 juin 2016 23:27:25 UTC+2, gliderpilotGR a écritÂ*:
Hello,

would anyone have advice on what to do to repair long cracks on a blue-tinted canopy ?
I am sort of good at producing bubble-less repairs on regular plexi and wonder if there is a secret recipe or procedure to tint Acrifix

TIA,

gliderpilotGR

Link to the Acrifix website: http://www.acrifix.com/product/acrif...s/default.aspx

Not certain the colorants are compatible with the usual Acrifix 192 tube.

Good find, and at a pretty obvious place to look at.
I never thought that anything other than a home recipe existed....

BTW, I prefer the 2 part stuff: 190 / 1900, drop of the special solvent, and let bubbles settle in the freezer. Mixing a colour should not be a problem.

thanks

Good find, and at a pretty obvious place to look at.
I never thought that anything other than a home recipe existed....

BTW, I prefer the 2-part bottled stuff: 190, drop of the special solvent, and let bubbles settle in the freezer. Mixing a colour should not be a problem, it is not viscous at all.

thanks again

On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 1:56:10 PM UTC-7, gliderpilotGR wrote:
thanks

Good find, and at a pretty obvious place to look at.
I never thought that anything other than a home recipe existed....

BTW, I prefer the 2-part bottled stuff: 190, drop of the special solvent, and let bubbles settle in the freezer. Mixing a colour should not be a problem, it is not viscous at all.

thanks again

GR can you expand a bit on how you let the bubbles settle out on the 190?

Thanks,
7Q

Sure,

keeping the bottle in the fridge is not necessary, but once mixed with the hardener, and first bubbles appear due to the reaction, I have it placed in deep freeze.

The idea is that it should be warm enough to react, but chilled to prolong pot life to let the gas rise to the surface. A drop of solvent helps by reducing viscosity.

I transfer the gassed-out glue to the V-grooved joint, drop by drop and while still somewhat cool, avoiding anything that could stir the solution or introduce air. a pipette may be OK, and so is ball pointed needle.

it turns out that the solution can be stored in the deep-freeze long enough to be used for a second application on top of the first one. that takes time because each layer of cement must be given time to shrink. This is why you do not pour Acrifix into the V-groove, and need very thin layers applied by surface tension.

best to avoid your home freezer. the thinner (I sourced something other than the one sold by evonic) has a reputation for being nasty.

hope this is useful,

What are you using to create the V-groove in the plexiglass?

On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 2:26:47 AM UTC-4, wrote:
What are you using to create the V-groove in the plexiglass?

I repaired a good number of cracks in canopies over the years and use a Dremel-type tool with a small end-mill. That tool cuts on the side and the flat front. Holding it at 45deg., the groove will have a 90deg opening.
Cover the crack with one or two layers of strong, clear packaging tape and work through these layers. You WILL slip with that tool and the layers of tape prevent any tool marks where you don't want them.
I use the '192' premixed cement rather than the two-part stuff.

Uli

On Sunday, June 5, 2016 at 2:12:40 PM UTC-7, gliderpilotGR wrote:
Sure,

keeping the bottle in the fridge is not necessary, but once mixed with the hardener, and first bubbles appear due to the reaction, I have it placed in deep freeze.

The idea is that it should be warm enough to react, but chilled to prolong pot life to let the gas rise to the surface. A drop of solvent helps by reducing viscosity.

I transfer the gassed-out glue to the V-grooved joint, drop by drop and while still somewhat cool, avoiding anything that could stir the solution or introduce air. a pipette may be OK, and so is ball pointed needle.

it turns out that the solution can be stored in the deep-freeze long enough to be used for a second application on top of the first one. that takes time because each layer of cement must be given time to shrink. This is why you do not pour Acrifix into the V-groove, and need very thin layers applied by surface tension.

best to avoid your home freezer. the thinner (I sourced something other than the one sold by evonic) has a reputation for being nasty.

hope this is useful,

Thanks GR