I have to thank you guys.

Sometime last year one of the posters on here was moaning about the
length of time that a Druine Turbulent takes to build, and that he
wasnt even going to start.
I looked at the post and thought, damn if that isnt exactly what I'm
after. something with lots of small parts that costs stuff all to
build and absorbs all the boring time between semesters at uni.

tailfeathers are almost finished. fuselage longerons were interrupted
by the table saw motor burning out but that should be home soon and
the fuselage should look like something in a week or two.

I'm having a ball at present with building sessions interspersed with
trips down to the airfield to fly the tailwind.

I've even been prompted to get the little furnace I built for
aluminium casting dusted off to cast up a set of lightweight toe brake
pedals. Man this homebuilding is magic.

for the poor bugger who thought it was too hard. rotfl. you have no
idea how much enjoyment building a little turbulent is.

Stealth Pilot
Australia

"Stealth Pilot" wrote in message
...

I've even been prompted to get the little furnace I built for
aluminium casting dusted off to cast up a set of lightweight toe brake
pedals. Man this homebuilding is magic.

The Emeraude plans even have specs for building your own wheels and brakes.

Rich "The devil's in the details" S.

Stealth Pilot wrote:

I've even been prompted to get the little furnace I built for
aluminium casting dusted off to cast up a set of lightweight toe brake
pedals. Man this homebuilding is magic.
-----------------------------------------------

Doing your own pedals is neat, especially if you cast-in your
hull-number or the airframe designator (ie, VP, 701, etc). I usta cast
intake manifold ends for dual-port VW heads. (The cores are kinda
tricky) Also gascolator bodies. I did a very sexy Pitot tube... then
realized it weighed nearly 4x as much as a couple of pieces of tubing
taped to a stick :-)

If you have a lathe, even a small one, and access to aluminum plate,
making your own pulleys can save you a bundle. Ditto for fuel tank
fittings (ie, 'flanges'), caps and so forth.

-R.S.Hoover

Veeduber, you rock! I hadn't thought about the pulley thing. What a
neat deal. I happen to have access to both, and will try my hand when
I get to that portion.

Drew

On 20 Jun 2005 14:02:08 -0700, wrote:



Stealth Pilot wrote:

I've even been prompted to get the little furnace I built for
aluminium casting dusted off to cast up a set of lightweight toe brake
pedals. Man this homebuilding is magic.
-----------------------------------------------

Doing your own pedals is neat, especially if you cast-in your
hull-number or the airframe designator (ie, VP, 701, etc). I usta cast
intake manifold ends for dual-port VW heads. (The cores are kinda
tricky) Also gascolator bodies. I did a very sexy Pitot tube... then
realized it weighed nearly 4x as much as a couple of pieces of tubing
taped to a stick :-)

If you have a lathe, even a small one, and access to aluminum plate,
making your own pulleys can save you a bundle. Ditto for fuel tank
fittings (ie, 'flanges'), caps and so forth.

-R.S.Hoover

oh yes. lathe and shaper etc.

Stealth Pilot

wrote:
Veeduber, you rock! I hadn't thought about the pulley thing. What a
neat deal. I happen to have access to both, and will try my hand when
I get to that portion.

---------------------------------------------

Dear Drew (and the Crew),

I don't rock. But pulleys do. It's rare for the amount of
cable-travel to exceed more than 90 degrees of rotation of a large
pulley. That means you don't really need sealed ball bearings; a
properly fitted bushing (Grangers, McMasters-Carr, etc) works fine.

After making a few I took the trouble to grind a tool bit for the
groove & shoulders.

If you come upon a stub of bar-stock of suitable diameter you might
consider chucking it between centers and turning out a whole batch of
pulleys at the same time, leaving only about and inch of core mebbe
1/8" wide. After doing all the grooves and the sides, take it over to
the band saw or metal-cutting hacksaw and slice it up. A copper collar
made from scrap DWV pipe allows you to chuck it on the OD, accurately
drill the center and face it off. Or at least, accurately enough :-)
Since the pulley does not rotate a full 360 you can have the axis off
by a couple of thou without effecting anything.

Anodizing is a good idea and you can do it at home if you follow the
rules. But some of the baked-on cermet coatings are at least as
wear-resistant and all it takes to cure them is a kitchen oven.

-R.S.Hoover

wrote:

wrote:

Veeduber, you rock! I hadn't thought about the pulley thing. What a
neat deal. I happen to have access to both, and will try my hand when
I get to that portion.


---------------------------------------------

Dear Drew (and the Crew),

I don't rock. But pulleys do. It's rare for the amount of
cable-travel to exceed more than 90 degrees of rotation of a large
pulley. That means you don't really need sealed ball bearings; a
properly fitted bushing (Grangers, McMasters-Carr, etc) works fine.

After making a few I took the trouble to grind a tool bit for the
groove & shoulders.

If you come upon a stub of bar-stock of suitable diameter you might
consider chucking it between centers and turning out a whole batch of
pulleys at the same time, leaving only about and inch of core mebbe
1/8" wide. After doing all the grooves and the sides, take it over to
the band saw or metal-cutting hacksaw and slice it up. A copper collar
made from scrap DWV pipe allows you to chuck it on the OD, accurately
drill the center and face it off. Or at least, accurately enough :-)
Since the pulley does not rotate a full 360 you can have the axis off
by a couple of thou without effecting anything.

Anodizing is a good idea and you can do it at home if you follow the
rules. But some of the baked-on cermet coatings are at least as
wear-resistant and all it takes to cure them is a kitchen oven.

-R.S.Hoover


Why not us a cutoff tool on your lathe instead of a band saw?

Dan, U. S. Air Force, retired

Why not us a cutoff tool on your lathe instead of a band saw?

Dan, U. S. Air Force, retired

Because they're too big. Your cut off tool would have to stick out the
radius of the part that you're cutting, and you'd loose too much rigidity.
Besides, a good bandsaw is faster.

The real question is why spend an hour making something you can buy for
$10.00, and probably at half the weight?

oh yes. lathe and shaper etc.


I ran a shaper once, about 20 years ago. They were outdated even then.

In article JYbue.92064$xm3.23541@attbi_s21,
says...

Why not us a cutoff tool on your lathe instead of a band saw?

Dan, U. S. Air Force, retired

Because they're too big. Your cut off tool would have to stick out the

radius of the part that you're cutting, and you'd loose too much rigid
ity.
Besides, a good bandsaw is faster.

The real question is why spend an hour making something you can buy fo
r
$10.00, and probably at half the weight?

1 You can make them any dia. you want.

2 The satisfaction of making it yourself.