Wedekind Sleeve Source?

"Also, maybe the location of your fittings are more accessible in the 20. On the DG's two of the fittings are easy to get to (through a small white hole while looking into darkness against bright sunlight) while two of the fittings are totally buried, invisible, and are difficult to get to at the best of times."

The connections in the fuselage are easier to get to than the ones in the 200/202/400. The 15 I fly is even easier to seal with as there are only four connectors and the access hatch is larger. I find the plain pins, tethered to the control rods just fine and I assemble my ship for every day's flying. Those two hard to get at connectors on the DG would be enough for me to go to the trouble of using Wedekinds if I had one though. Automatic hookups are highly desirable though. Despite that, odds are my next ship will be a 17 with SIX L'Hotelliers in the fuselage!

A word of caution concerning straight-through Hotellier fittings. I know of two pilots that thought their LS-6 ailerons had been properly connected, when in fact one aileron was not connected! It's near impossible to see the hotiellers......most 6 drivers rely on proper feel and listen for the click when they go together. First aileron goes OK, the problem arises when connecting the second aileron. The end of the Hotellier is shaped like a half hemisphere and I know two pilots that managed to miss the hole! They hook up the first aileron, then move the second aileron push-rod over to the hotelier and click it onto the half hemisphere not in the whole hemisphere where it belongs. Bringing the push-rod over to the fitting is done by reaching over the fuselage and raising the flap until the push-rod is close to the Hotellier fitting. To check the connection, they pulled the rod in the opposite direction, but didn't relax the up pressure they were holding on the flap............it felt good, they herd it click together, tried to pull it apart, so they screwed the LS safety sleeve all the way down, must be good to go.......WRONG!
Always do a positive control check!
JJ

On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 2:04:59 AM UTC-5, Tango Whisky wrote:
Le dimanche 6 mars 2016 16:27:13 UTC+1, a écrit*:
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-5, ZP wrote:
Kevin, checking in to see if you ever installed them. This is still something I'm considering.

Thanks.
-Dirk

Not yet. I got the parts and looked over everything carefully, but my IA has been tied up working on a power plane that has been rode hard and put up wet.

In looking things over, I have decided to do the Wedikind Sleeves on the ailerons, and will do the Unreling on the dive brakes. The Ailerons are easier on the DG-400, they unscrew, where the dive brakes are riveted and GLUED, making it very difficult if not impossible to get them apart without damage.


The glue is Araldit. If you heat it up to around 100°C, it will come apart easily.

I went on their web site, but several glues. Any idea which one?

Also, is there any concern with changing temper on the aluminum push rods when heating?

Kevin

Kevin, I have the set-up you describe on my 400: Wedekind sleeves on ailerons, and the plastic sleeves on dive brakes. I got the safety sleeves from Pacific Aerosport. This works very well for me, and I wouldn't bother installing Wedekinds on the dive brakes.

On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 8:52:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 2:04:59 AM UTC-5, Tango Whisky wrote:
Le dimanche 6 mars 2016 16:27:13 UTC+1, a écrit*:
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-5, ZP wrote:
Kevin, checking in to see if you ever installed them. This is still something I'm considering.

Thanks.
-Dirk

Not yet. I got the parts and looked over everything carefully, but my IA has been tied up working on a power plane that has been rode hard and put up wet.

In looking things over, I have decided to do the Wedikind Sleeves on the ailerons, and will do the Unreling on the dive brakes. The Ailerons are easier on the DG-400, they unscrew, where the dive brakes are riveted and GLUED, making it very difficult if not impossible to get them apart without damage.


The glue is Araldit. If you heat it up to around 100°C, it will come apart easily.

I went on their web site, but several glues. Any idea which one?

Also, is there any concern with changing temper on the aluminum push rods when heating?

Kevin

If you're heating enough to change the temper, you're also cooking the glue and making really "not nice" colors/smells. Likely 100*C is short of changing the color of the paint (in short duration).
Best bet is to use a really good hobby heat gun, or a "middling" industrial heat gun.
No torches needed.......

Good advise from JJ, on one occasion when I had my Std Cirrus one control
connection jammed half way on a ball end when assembling, it would not go
fully on and it wouldn’t come off, may have been a foreign matter, dust
etc contaminating it, operating the control while applying pressure got it
off.
So I started to cleaned each ball end then lubricate with thin oil (WD40)
spray the oil on a finger then apply to the ball end before assembly, never
had any problem after that.


At 03:26 08 March 2016, Charlie M. UH & 002 owner/pilot wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 8:52:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 2:04:59 AM UTC-5, Tango Whisky wrote:
Le dimanche 6 mars 2016 16:27:13 UTC+1, a
=E9crit=A0:
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-5, ZP wrote:
Kevin, checking in to see if you ever installed them. This is
stil=
l something I'm considering.
=20
Thanks.
-Dirk
=20
Not yet. I got the parts and looked over everything carefully, but
m=
y IA has been tied up working on a power plane that has been rode hard
and=
put up wet. =20
=20
In looking things over, I have decided to do the Wedikind Sleeves
on
=
the ailerons, and will do the Unreling on the dive brakes. The Ailerons
ar=
e easier on the DG-400, they unscrew, where the dive brakes are riveted
and=
GLUED, making it very difficult if not impossible to get them apart
withou=
t damage.
=20
=20
The glue is Araldit. If you heat it up to around 100=B0C, it will
come
=
apart easily.
=20
I went on their web site, but several glues. Any idea which one?
=20
Also, is there any concern with changing temper on the aluminum push
rods=
when heating?
=20
Kevin

If you're heating enough to change the temper, you're also cooking the
glue=
and making really "not nice" colors/smells. Likely 100*C is short of
chang=
ing the color of the paint (in short duration).
Best bet is to use a really good hobby heat gun, or a "middling"
industrial=
heat gun.
No torches needed.......

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 17:52:54 -0800, kevinsoar wrote:

I went on their web site, but several glues. Any idea which one?

Disclaimer: the following is model aircraft buildig and general use
experience, not direct aviation use, so please bear that in mind. Also I
think the formulation may have changed a bit recently, since the
'standard' Araldite used to be yellowish when mixed and is now milky
white.

There are two common Araldite types.

- "Standard", which used to be known as '24 hour' Araldite comes in blue/
white coloured tubes, takes about 24 hours to fully cure at room temp,
and gives a really tough joint. It tends to soften if you heat it after
its cured. So much so, that if you know its going to be used at a higher
temp, you should let it cure at the expected use temp or a bit hotter.
This is the one I use for general engineering and anywhere I expect the
joint to be load bearing.

- "Rapid" comes in red/white tubes, is handlable after 30 mins and full
strength after 1-2 hours. I've never heated this after curing so have no
idea whether it heat softens because I normally use it for gluing wood
and plastic. Its sets hard rather than tough: the glue shatters if
overstressed. I only use it for low stress joints and/or for quick
repairs where speed of cure is more important than glue strength.

Bottom line: anywhere that you care about joint integrity, use Araldite
Standard in the blue/white tube set.


Also, is there any concern with changing temper on the aluminum push
rods when heating?

As others have said, if you heat Araldite epoxies hot enough for long
enough to affect the temper of metal its joining stuff, the epoxy bond
will be destroyed rather than softened. And, like them, I'd use a hobby-
style (900w) heat gun to soften an existing epoxy joint.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |

On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 5:17:58 AM UTC-5, Vernon Brown wrote:

So I started to cleaned each ball end then lubricate with thin oil (WD40)

Way off track, but may I drop a tip here?

Vernon: WD-40 is fish oil. It's a great water dispersant (the "WD" in WD-40), but it has lousy oxidation stability and gets gummy. Use Break Free CLP.

best,

Evan Ludeman

On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 10:11:53 PM UTC-5, Paul Villinski wrote:
Kevin, I have the set-up you describe on my 400: Wedekind sleeves on ailerons, and the plastic sleeves on dive brakes. I got the safety sleeves from Pacific Aerosport. This works very well for me, and I wouldn't bother installing Wedekinds on the dive brakes.

Thanks Paul,

I was originally going to do them all, but as you know the dive brakes are more complicated, and I had decided to go the way you suggest.
I ordered the sleeves from DG direct and they were not packed well and destroyed upon arrival. They refunded me, and I will order from Pacific Aerosport now.

Thanks for the conformation on going this way.

Kevin
92

At 12:26 08 March 2016, Tango Eight wrote:
On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 5:17:58 AM UTC-5, Vernon Brown wrote:

So I started to cleaned each ball end then lubricate with thin oil
(WD40)

Way off track, but may I drop a tip here?

Vernon: WD-40 is fish oil. It's a great water dispersant (the "WD" in
WD-40), but it has lousy oxidation stability and gets gummy. Use Break
Free CLP.

best,

Evan Ludeman


Thanks Evan, didn’t know WD40 was fish oil,
gumming up should not a problem if controls are cleaned before every
rigging, which I did, but useful info nerveless, which will be useful to
others.
Sold my Cirrus about 12 years ago, had an LS8/18 for a while, now I have an
LS6c 17.5 both auto connects.
Vernon