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#1
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Cold Weather Flying
I live in Ottawa, Canada and this is my first winter as a PA-28-140 owner. My airplane does have copper battery cables (cable ?) and an engine heater but the previous owner warned me; in really cold weather, below (-10C/-23 F) it won't start without a battery boost. The battery boost is in addition to plug-in the aircraft for about an hour before departure. The aircraft doesn't have an engine cover AND it does not have a geared starter. Are there any other PA-28-140s with a similar problem? I will be getting an engine cover, but I don't think this alone will eliminate the battery boost requirements. The battery is two years old. Normal summer start always looks like the battery is dead, i.e. one blade goes by and the prop stops turning, ignition back to off, then crank again and it fires up immediately. My plan this winter is to get a trickle charger for the battery, blanket battery warmer plus regular plug-in of the engine heater. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jose Vivanco C-GPYH. |
#2
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You may want to have your charging system tested to make sure everything is
in order. If it cranks like that when it is warm then it is marginal at best in the cold weather. The battery can also be load tested. Fix or replace anything that is marginal and your frustration level will be much lower over the winter. "Jose Vivanco" wrote in message ... I live in Ottawa, Canada and this is my first winter as a PA-28-140 owner. My airplane does have copper battery cables (cable ?) and an engine heater but the previous owner warned me; in really cold weather, below (-10C/-23 F) it won't start without a battery boost. The battery boost is in addition to plug-in the aircraft for about an hour before departure. The aircraft doesn't have an engine cover AND it does not have a geared starter. Are there any other PA-28-140s with a similar problem? I will be getting an engine cover, but I don't think this alone will eliminate the battery boost requirements. The battery is two years old. Normal summer start always looks like the battery is dead, i.e. one blade goes by and the prop stops turning, ignition back to off, then crank again and it fires up immediately. My plan this winter is to get a trickle charger for the battery, blanket battery warmer plus regular plug-in of the engine heater. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jose Vivanco C-GPYH. |
#3
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below (-10C/-23 F)
heat the airplane? forget it! It's too cold for ME! |
#4
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In article ,
Jose Vivanco wrote: I will be getting an engine cover, but I don't think this alone will eliminate the battery boost requirements. Especially if the battery isn't in the engine compartment. Is the Cherokee battery in the empennage? Normal summer start always looks like the battery is dead, i.e. one blade goes by and the prop stops turning, ignition back to off, then crank again and it fires up immediately. I flew a 182 like that and the standard procedure was to pull the prop through about 4 blades during the preflight or else you'd have to 'rock' it to start (like you describe). Not sure why pulling it through would help. -- Ben Jackson http://www.ben.com/ |
#5
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Cover the engine compartment with a thick blanket to keep the heat inside.
Consider changing to a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil if the engine specs allow it. They make a big difference to the cranking power needed in cold weather. Also, getting the plane out of and into the hangar can be tricky when it's icy. Frozen hangar doors may be hard to open. I've had to resort to all sorts of tricks when moving our club motorglider in winter without assistants, including spiked boots and a block and tackle system to pull the plane over the ice threshold forming at the hangar doors. But it's great to fly in winter when weather is good. Nils Helsinki, Finland "Jose Vivanco" wrote in message ... Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. |
#6
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My 140 has required the initial "bump" you describe for the last ten
years I owned it. Our positive braided battery strap has always been in marginal shape. I will probably replace it this fall. It is split at the battery post and does not offer the best connection. What is that hardened putty-like stuff that insulates it from the battery box? That looks like a really crude solution. Do they make some sort of (legal) rubber isolator as a replacement, or do I have to replace it with the same goop? By the way, I have had ours out in -13 and the oil temp is pretty low, even with the plate on. No battery boost was needed, even with the aging cable. With thermal underwear it was still too cool for my tastes. The heater does not keep the plane at any comfort level below 0F. Here in Illinois, +10-+15F is about the reasonable limit on a tiedown. Fortunately, daytime temps don't go lower than that very often. I see what the other respondent was saying about the hangar woes. Here, they plow in front of the hangars and leave a nice 10-15 inch bump of snow that turns to solid ice when the sun bounces off the hangars and partially melts it during the day and it solidifies at night. Mike Jose Vivanco wrote: I live in Ottawa, Canada and this is my first winter as a PA-28-140 owner. My airplane does have copper battery cables (cable ?) and an engine heater but the previous owner warned me; in really cold weather, below (-10C/-23 F) it won't start without a battery boost. The battery boost is in addition to plug-in the aircraft for about an hour before departure. The aircraft doesn't have an engine cover AND it does not have a geared starter. Are there any other PA-28-140s with a similar problem? I will be getting an engine cover, but I don't think this alone will eliminate the battery boost requirements. The battery is two years old. Normal summer start always looks like the battery is dead, i.e. one blade goes by and the prop stops turning, ignition back to off, then crank again and it fires up immediately. My plan this winter is to get a trickle charger for the battery, blanket battery warmer plus regular plug-in of the engine heater. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jose Vivanco C-GPYH. __________________________________________________ _____________________________ Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com - Accounts Starting At $6.95 - http://www.uncensored-news.com The Worlds Uncensored News Source |
#7
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By the way, I have had ours out in -13 and the oil temp is pretty low,
even with the plate on. No battery boost was needed, even with the aging cable. With thermal underwear it was still too cool for my tastes. Is that -13 F? If so, I've flown at that temperature, and it's quite amazing. Everything creaks, and groans, and sounds different. Pre-flighting is an exercise in endurance, and your eyes water so badly you can't see a danged thing. Once everything is warmed up, however, the performance is spectacular! The heater does not keep the plane at any comfort level below 0F. Mike, I'd check to make sure the passenger compartment is relatively airtight. When we flew our Warrior at that temperature (I've not had the opportunity with the Pathfinder, yet), we were toasty warm in just a few minutes. That Cherokee heater kicks out a lot of BTUs, and should do the job, even when it's that cold -- unless the heat is being sucked out through a bad door seal. (Or under the back seat. Or due to leaky air vents.) I see what the other respondent was saying about the hangar woes. Here, they plow in front of the hangars and leave a nice 10-15 inch bump of snow that turns to solid ice when the sun bounces off the hangars and partially melts it during the day and it solidifies at night. Ours, too. We've taken to driving to the airport immediately after a snowstorm, just so we can clear the area in front of the hangar door. (Our first year here we didn't know to do that, and there were days when we literally had to use a hammer and chisel to chip away the ice, just so we could open the door. It was frozen to the ground!) -- Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Pathfinder N56993 www.AlexisParkInn.com "Your Aviation Destination" |
#8
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" Ours, too. We've taken to driving to the airport immediately after a
snowstorm, just so we can clear the area in front of the hangar door. (Our first year here we didn't know to do that, and there were days when we literally had to use a hammer and chisel to chip away the ice, just so we could open the door. It was frozen to the ground!) Exactly. And when jumping into the plane after this workout exercise, the body sweat promptly converts to ice on the windows ;(. After two such experiences I started to change into a dry T-shirt and sweater before entering the airplane. No more problems with ice on the windows. One final admonition regarding cold weather flying. The weather can change pretty fast from sunny to low clouds with risk of icing. Be vigilant. I've twice run into sleet or freezing rain before even clearing the pattern, when the weather still looked OK on the apron. But as I said, on a clear day winter flying is a great experience. Nils Helsinki, Finland |
#9
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Ben Jackson wrote: Normal summer start always looks like the battery is dead, i.e. one blade goes by and the prop stops turning, ignition back to off, then crank again and it fires up immediately. I flew a 182 like that and the standard procedure was to pull the prop through about 4 blades during the preflight or else you'd have to 'rock' it to start (like you describe). Not sure why pulling it through would help. This is the classic case of a starter adapter going bad. Fix it soon as you are introducing metal to the oil as the main shaft goes bad. |
#10
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Newps wrote: Ben Jackson wrote: Normal summer start always looks like the battery is dead, i.e. one blade goes by and the prop stops turning, ignition back to off, then crank again and it fires up immediately. I flew a 182 like that and the standard procedure was to pull the prop through about 4 blades during the preflight or else you'd have to 'rock' it to start (like you describe). Not sure why pulling it through would help. This is the classic case of a starter adapter going bad. Fix it soon as you are introducing metal to the oil as the main shaft goes bad. I had this type of problem with both my Bonanza and my Tripacer. Each time it was one of the field wires within the starter being disconnected from the main post and using only one side of the field. Either it wasn't soldered on properly or the starter got hot enough to loosen up the joint or better yet someone decided to tighten the lock nut on the post and turned the post and broke the connection! It certainly seemed like a battery or charging system problem. If it isn't turning over like crazy in the summer and the battery and wiring is good, then there IS a problem with the starter. This is a very simple system. I suspect that its a O-320 so the starter will not put metal in the oil as it's only a bolt on type. I would never suggest that you remove the four bolts that hold on the starter and disconnect the fat wire going to the post and take it down to your local automotive/tractor starter and generater rebuild shop. It is not legal here in the states and i suspect that it is not legal up there. I saw a starter just like that on a old tractor once ;-) |
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