molding plexiglas websites?

On Thu, 3 Feb 2005 wrote:

It IS plexiglas-

I made mine (windows and website)

1. make a structure the shape of the window. Mine was wood scraps,
holding thin aluminum sheet bent to shape.

2. Cover the form with felt.

3. Place plexiglass on top of form into an oven (I made that also).

4. Heat slowly until the plastic softens and drapes over the form.
The temp will be about 300 deg F.

5. Cool slowly, sudden temp changes warp it.

6. Finish cut to size when happy with the shape.

I found the instructions in a book titled "Making Props", which
I thought was about propellers, but was instead about theater props.


George Graham
RX-7 Powered Graham-EZ, N4449E
Homepage http://bfn.org/~ca266

"George A. Graham" wrote in message ...
On Thu, 3 Feb 2005 wrote:

It IS plexiglas-

I made mine (windows and website)

1. make a structure the shape of the window. Mine was wood scraps,
holding thin aluminum sheet bent to shape.

2. Cover the form with felt.

3. Place plexiglass on top of form into an oven (I made that also).

4. Heat slowly until the plastic softens and drapes over the form.
The temp will be about 300 deg F.

5. Cool slowly, sudden temp changes warp it.

6. Finish cut to size when happy with the shape.

I found the instructions in a book titled "Making Props", which
I thought was about propellers, but was instead about theater props.


George Graham
RX-7 Powered Graham-EZ, N4449E
Homepage http://bfn.org/~ca266



Details about the oven? Way back when I formed plexi after heating in a box with about 4 light bulbs...

George or Richard,
A little off the subject. A fellow at my airport had heard of a method to
remove scratches. It involved plastic, I think acrylic, figurines and a
propane torch heating slightly the scratches to "erase" them. I was
wondering if anyone had any such knowledge.

My yet-to-be installed, 20year old canopy
was lightly sanded with the wrong grit and scratched up both inside and
outside. After researching the methods available to sand/polish them out
and considering greatly differing opinions, I'd like to find another method
short of buying/making a new canopy.


Thanks, Dick

On Sun, 6 Feb 2005, Dick wrote:

propane torch heating slightly the scratches to "erase" them. I was

Well, You must know that you can sand out the scratches, and save the
canopy. However, it may be more work than it's worth.

So long as you are prepared to purchase another, and they are available,
why not experiment.

I've seen scratch remover sold for eyeglasses that I'd try first.
I cannot imagine the torch idea leaving a clear view through the
canopy, and removing the waves is as much work as removing the scratches.

George Graham
RX-7 Powered Graham-EZ, N4449E
Homepage http://bfn.org/~ca266

On Sun, 6 Feb 2005, Blueskies wrote:

Details about the oven?

That would depend on the size of the windows.

I made mine out of foil faced rigid insulation board, held into box shape
with duct tape, the handyman's secret weapon. The tape went soft and let
go when heated, so I had to use nails into wood corner strips.

It was four by three by two feet overall. A baseboard heater three feet
long was modified to eliminate the tip-over switch, so that it could
lay flat on it's back on the floor of the oven. I had a thermometer stuck
through the wall, and controlled the heater by unplugging it.

The lid was hinged so that I could peek inside to watch the window.

Certainly disposable.

George Graham
RX-7 Powered Graham-EZ, N4449E
Homepage http://bfn.org/~ca266

"George A. Graham" wrote in message ...
On Sun, 6 Feb 2005, Blueskies wrote:

Details about the oven?

That would depend on the size of the windows.

I made mine out of foil faced rigid insulation board, held into box shape
with duct tape, the handyman's secret weapon. The tape went soft and let
go when heated, so I had to use nails into wood corner strips.

It was four by three by two feet overall. A baseboard heater three feet
long was modified to eliminate the tip-over switch, so that it could
lay flat on it's back on the floor of the oven. I had a thermometer stuck
through the wall, and controlled the heater by unplugging it.

The lid was hinged so that I could peek inside to watch the window.

Certainly disposable.

George Graham
RX-7 Powered Graham-EZ, N4449E
Homepage http://bfn.org/~ca266


Thanks! I've been thinking about a 'curved' windshield for the BD-4...

richard riley wrote:
On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 02:35:47 GMT, "Blueskies"
wrote:

::
etails about the oven? Way back when I formed plexi after heating in a box with about 4 light bulbs...

I've been doing some vacuforming with 1/8" acrylic, using a machine
much like this one...

Years ago I was hanging out with Jackie Yoder and he was explaining how he bent the
lens for his "in the wing" landing lights. Just a plywood box with an old heating
element (I think he said he scrounged it out of a dryer). Takes a few practice
attempts to get it right, but acrylic is cheap.

For those who were arguing the materials: Most aircraft "glass" is acrylic (plexiglas
is a brandname for acrylic). It's not quite as strong, but is easier to work and can
be reheated (theroforming). Some people do use polycarbonate (lexan is a trade name
for that). It's much stronger (bulletproof even), but can scratch badly. It's harder
to work (thermosetting).

In article ,
"Dick" wrote:

George or Richard,
A little off the subject. A fellow at my airport had heard of a method to
remove scratches. It involved plastic, I think acrylic, figurines and a
propane torch heating slightly the scratches to "erase" them. I was
wondering if anyone had any such knowledge.

My yet-to-be installed, 20year old canopy
was lightly sanded with the wrong grit and scratched up both inside and
outside. After researching the methods available to sand/polish them out
and considering greatly differing opinions, I'd like to find another method
short of buying/making a new canopy.


Thanks, Dick


I have an experiment:

1. Take a piece of Plexiglass scrap and cut it qith a bandsaw.

2. File the big scratches and gouges out of the sawed end.

3. Start wet sanding with #320, then #400, then #600, then #1200, then
#2000 grit, stepping up the grit as smoothness is reached. Wash between
sandings.

4. Take automotive rubbing compound to the edges worked and look for
polished areas.

5. When the whole desired area appears polished, apply automotive
polishing compound. (You can also use tooth powder.)

Use lots of water in all processes.

You can also start with a piece of scratched-up Plexiglass and work
through the same steps.

The end result is a piece of polished Plexiglass with no visible
scratches.

Jon A. writes:

Who said that? Are you speaking of the legendary owner manufactured
parts myth that has been repeated so many times that folks are proving
it to be true?

What myth is this?

-jav

The myth that 21.302 (b)(2) has been rescinded, which it ain't.

Jim



"Javier Henderson" wrote in message
...
Jon A. writes:

Who said that? Are you speaking of the legendary owner manufactured
parts myth that has been repeated so many times that folks are proving
it to be true?

What myth is this?

-jav