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#31
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New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs
On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 11:32:14 PM UTC-5, Charles Longley wrote:
Well it’s not a FAA AD yet. Anyone know if there’s a NPRM for it yet? Not yet. It's probably just a matter of time if EASA has already adopted a standard method of compliance and applicability. |
#32
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New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs
On Sunday, May 10, 2020 at 3:40:32 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2020 at 2:55:29 PM UTC-4, okko kloosterman wrote: Could you give some information on the required tool modifications? Thanks. OK 9-5-2020 19:52 wrote: On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 10:17:09 AM UTC-4, soaringjac wrote: See the link below http://www.ltb-lindner.com/g-102-ad-...rod_200408.pdf Our Grob 102 Astir CS had the "welded version" elevator pushrod consistent with the Service Bulletin. BTW: All the hardware requires 10 mm wrenches. The elevator pushrod bolt & nut required a modified box wrenches. Chuck Zabinski The 10 mm box wrenches were ground down to thin the outer circular support structure that supports the gripping teeth. This lets the wrench fit into bolt access recess in the rudder. Even with that, a slight amount of Dremel work may be required to get the wrench to fit on the bolt nut. Also small hands and patience are required to remove the elevator pushrod bolt. Chuck Zabinski Chuck, can you take a photo of the 10mm wrench after modification? Our club has 5 G-103, four of which are affected by this SB. We are looking at the inspection, but it sounds like your tool mod would be good prep work. Can you post or send me a photo of the tool after modification? David |
#33
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New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs
I've just done our Astir CS.
A few tips: Lifting the tail onto a tressle for better access made it a lot easier. You will also need to adjust the trim to get the bell crank in a suitable position for disassembly. If i remember right, about 3/4 stick back was about right. To get the lower rudder bolt off, a standard 10mm open end spanner fits on vertically (not side on as normal) and wedged into the small gap between the rudder and fin. Allen key in the bolt on top. I was a bit worried about the spanner damaging the rudder , but the release torque on the bolt was pretty low so no trouble here. Access to the nut/bolt at the bottom of the pushrod is tricky, but possible (I have big hands so at a bit of a disadvantage here!) You'll need 2x 10mm spanners, one with a ratchet. Ours was installed with the bolt through from the left (close to the fin skin) and the nut on the right, open side. I would recommend keeping it this way as getting the nut on the skin side would be tricky to say the least. Open end spanner on the bolt head, ideally with a bit of tape on the back side to prevent it from falling off. Ratchet spanner on the nut. The open end spanner will need bracing on the bottom of the fin (left hand) and the nut loosened with the right hand. Light pressure on the ratchet spanner is needed to stop it falling off the nut, which means you have to put your hand quite far in, restricting the ratchet motion to 1 or 2 clicks. Not a quick job in other words! Be careful when taking the nut off as it can fall into the tail boom through the bulkhead holes and is a bugger to get back out (don't ask!) Drilling the hole is straight forward, although not sure how they expect you to deburr the inside of the hole!? I took the chance to restore the paint on the rod, as I didn't fancy ever having to take it out again! Reassembly posed its own challenges, especially as a 1 man job. Ideally you will have someone to hold the rod in position from above while you reassemble the joint, but if not you can rest the pushrod on the bellcrank with the correct trim position. 2 problems: 1. The bolt was too long to fit back in between the rod and the fin skin 2. I couldnt get both hands in to push the bolt in while holding the rod in the correct position I used the other bolt off the rudder/pushrod connection, and partially inserted the win the wrong (right!) side of the joint to align it, then inserted the actual bolt in the correct way, coming in from above at downward angle to fit in the tight gap. Then remove the rudder bolt and push the main bolt in all the way. Similar setup with taped spanner & ratchet spanner to re-assemble and same strategy for the rudder hinge bolt No corrosion in ours either, and that is with a very leaky trailer! The club Twin II Acro has been another story altogether, seems that the wrong pushrod (rivetted version) was installed and impossible to remove through conventional means, so a few new holes going in that one by the looks of it |
#34
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New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs
On Wednesday, June 3, 2020 at 11:40:37 AM UTC-7, Alex Fordham wrote:
I've just done our Astir CS. A few tips: Lifting the tail onto a tressle for better access made it a lot easier. You will also need to adjust the trim to get the bell crank in a suitable position for disassembly. If i remember right, about 3/4 stick back was about right. To get the lower rudder bolt off, a standard 10mm open end spanner fits on vertically (not side on as normal) and wedged into the small gap between the rudder and fin. Allen key in the bolt on top. I was a bit worried about the spanner damaging the rudder , but the release torque on the bolt was pretty low so no trouble here. Access to the nut/bolt at the bottom of the pushrod is tricky, but possible (I have big hands so at a bit of a disadvantage here!) You'll need 2x 10mm spanners, one with a ratchet. Ours was installed with the bolt through from the left (close to the fin skin) and the nut on the right, open side. I would recommend keeping it this way as getting the nut on the skin side would be tricky to say the least. Open end spanner on the bolt head, ideally with a bit of tape on the back side to prevent it from falling off. Ratchet spanner on the nut. The open end spanner will need bracing on the bottom of the fin (left hand) and the nut loosened with the right hand. Light pressure on the ratchet spanner is needed to stop it falling off the nut, which means you have to put your hand quite far in, restricting the ratchet motion to 1 or 2 clicks. Not a quick job in other words! Be careful when taking the nut off as it can fall into the tail boom through the bulkhead holes and is a bugger to get back out (don't ask!) Drilling the hole is straight forward, although not sure how they expect you to deburr the inside of the hole!? I took the chance to restore the paint on the rod, as I didn't fancy ever having to take it out again! Reassembly posed its own challenges, especially as a 1 man job. Ideally you will have someone to hold the rod in position from above while you reassemble the joint, but if not you can rest the pushrod on the bellcrank with the correct trim position. 2 problems: 1. The bolt was too long to fit back in between the rod and the fin skin 2. I couldnt get both hands in to push the bolt in while holding the rod in the correct position I used the other bolt off the rudder/pushrod connection, and partially inserted the win the wrong (right!) side of the joint to align it, then inserted the actual bolt in the correct way, coming in from above at downward angle to fit in the tight gap. Then remove the rudder bolt and push the main bolt in all the way. Similar setup with taped spanner & ratchet spanner to re-assemble and same strategy for the rudder hinge bolt No corrosion in ours either, and that is with a very leaky trailer! The club Twin II Acro has been another story altogether, seems that the wrong pushrod (rivetted version) was installed and impossible to remove through conventional means, so a few new holes going in that one by the looks of it Thanks for all this great info Alex, very much appreciated! |
#35
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New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs
On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 7:17:09 AM UTC-7, soaringjac wrote:
See the link below http://www.ltb-lindner.com/g-102-ad-...rod_200408.pdf Did my Astir CS today and there was minor corrosion in the tube, so we have to replace it. Ship has been in California desert its whole life. |
#36
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New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs
At 01:10 03 August 2020, soaringjac wrote:
On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 7:17:09 AM UTC-7, soaringjac wrote: See the link below http://www.ltb-lindner.com/g-102-ad-sb.html? file=tl_files/ltb_lindner/pdf/G%20102%20LTA%20%26%20TM%20Engli sch/SB-G09_elevator%20pushrod_200408.pdf Did my Astir CS today and there was minor corrosion in the tube, so we have to replace it. Ship has been in California desert its whole life. We had a Twin Astir fail too. LTB Lindner no longer requires the old part to be sent back to them. I gave them the model and serial number, and they were able to supply a new part. They ran my credit card last Friday (31 Jul) and shipped it UPS Express. I got it this morning (3 Aug). They are now shut down for summer vacation for the next 3 weeks, but otherwise, I have found them to be quite responsive. I don't know if i would have been able to get the part any faster if it had come from a USA dealer/factory. RO |
#37
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New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs
On Monday, August 3, 2020 at 7:30:04 AM UTC-7, Michael Opitz wrote:
At 01:10 03 August 2020, soaringjac wrote: On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 7:17:09 AM UTC-7, soaringjac wrote: See the link below http://www.ltb-lindner.com/g-102-ad-sb.html? file=tl_files/ltb_lindner/pdf/G%20102%20LTA%20%26%20TM%20Engli sch/SB-G09_elevator%20pushrod_200408.pdf Did my Astir CS today and there was minor corrosion in the tube, so we have to replace it. Ship has been in California desert its whole life. We had a Twin Astir fail too. LTB Lindner no longer requires the old part to be sent back to them. I gave them the model and serial number, and they were able to supply a new part. They ran my credit card last Friday (31 Jul) and shipped it UPS Express. I got it this morning (3 Aug). They are now shut down for summer vacation for the next 3 weeks, but otherwise, I have found them to be quite responsive. I don't know if i would have been able to get the part any faster if it had come from a USA dealer/factory. RO Linder has been very responsive everytime I have dealt with them, and shipping is pretty quick. Unfortunately, like you said, they are closed for about he next month. So my ship is out of commission now until they open back up and i can order the part from them . Bad timing. |
#38
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New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs
Our Astir 102CS was a bit of a bugger to access. We removed the rudder, which was easy enough, but that pushrod lower clevis thru bolt was tough. It took two of us and a special long 1/4” drive wrench to remove and replace. We erred on the side of caution ahead of time and ordered a new one via Roger Mudd. Was north of $500. Turns out our original one was fine. Note that not all 103’s are affected—ours isn’t.
Larry Ruggiero, Carolina Soaring Assoc, Spartanburg SC |
#39
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New SB (SB-G09) on elevator pushrods for most all Grobs
With my Astir CS I didn't have much difficulty:* removing the lower
rudder bolt was done with a 10mm open end wrench used vertically and the pushrod bolt went loose easily (= normal force applied). Lindner even added three new nuts with the ste I ordered. No moisture and no rust inside the rod, so no problem... Okko (Netherlands) Op 8-8-2020 om 5:14 schreef Larry Ruggiero: Our Astir 102CS was a bit of a bugger to access. We removed the rudder, which was easy enough, but that pushrod lower clevis thru bolt was tough. It took two of us and a special long 1/4” drive wrench to remove and replace. We erred on the side of caution ahead of time and ordered a new one via Roger Mudd. Was north of $500. Turns out our original one was fine. Note that not all 103’s are affected—ours isn’t. Larry Ruggiero, Carolina Soaring Assoc, Spartanburg SC |
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