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#1
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Gel Coat for Dummies
Help.
I want to repair some self-inflicted wounds on the leading edges of the wings on my LS1-d. The wounds were created when getting the wings out from and/or putting them back into the definintely non-Cobra/Komet trailer. While not a Cobra, it is a 'serpent' type of trailer, but more of a intestinal 'tape worm'... I scraped off little bits of gel coat from time to time and I want to reapply gel coat. Fill the little divots and sand them off. But, how do you sand the leading edge? These divots were probably no more than about 50 mm long for the largest and no more than about 10 mm high, again for the largest. Others are smaller. And, they are right on the nose of the leading edges. I've begun the work with some gel coat and I've sanded it down, but wondering what the 'right' way would be. What size sanding block to use? I'm using a milled piece of wood that measures about 75mm wide by 15 mm thick by about 450 mm long and wrapping a sheet of sanding paper around it. My sanding movements have been parallel with the leading edge, trying to keep the sand paper right over the gel coat which 'stands proud' above the surrounding areas. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Ray Lovinggood Carrboro, North Carolina, USA |
#2
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There's a lot more in this article then you need ... you can actually
paint gelcoat with a brush for small LE repairs ... a sanding block/bar is essential ... a small one is probably OK for small dings ... I use longer for LE refinishing. http://sailplane-racing.org/Articles...asw20_wing.htm KK Ray Lovinggood wrote: Help. I want to repair some self-inflicted wounds on the leading edges of the wings on my LS1-d. The wounds were created when getting the wings out from and/or putting them back into the definintely non-Cobra/Komet |
#3
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Just to look at this a little more ... small fixes are often the most
difficult. As you sand down the newly applied material, you ultimately hit the surrounding area and remove gelcoat there ... sometimes to the point where the underlying darker glass surface starts to show. Except for small chips, I always use some type of disclosure agent which shows where I am sanding. I have also used tape to shield areas ... this can help ... and always use the finest grit paper possible ... slower is better. Leading edge sanding around the front radius requires feel and wrist action ... it would be easier to explain on the phone if you want to discuss. KK |
#4
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There is an excellent video series on gel coat repairs for the
fiberglass boat community. These will give you the general knowledge you need. You can then use the group for the more specific knowledge of work on sailplanes. Cosmetic Gelcoat and Fiberglass Repair Volumes I-III V I: Gelcoat 100 minutes V II: Stress Cracks, Air Voids, and Fractures 104 minutes V III: Color Matching 34 minutes Bennett Marine Video 1989 Marina Del Ray, CA 90292 |
#5
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Nothing new here, but what I do is use a short piece (6 inches) of 1
inch square aluminum bar stock. I put strips of various grades of wet/dry sandpaper on each side. Say, 200grit, 400 grit, 600 grit, 1000 grit. I support the wing leading edge down and paint on some matching gelcoat. The leading edge down assures complete coverage of the leading edge dings. When the gelcoat hardens I use the multisided sanding bar to progressively remove the higher material, using water and finer sandpaper as I progress down. Finish with polishing compound and wax. Bob On 12 Dec 2004 17:17:38 GMT, Ray Lovinggood wrote: Help. I want to repair some self-inflicted wounds on the leading edges of the wings on my LS1-d. The wounds were created when getting the wings out from and/or putting them back into the definintely non-Cobra/Komet trailer. While not a Cobra, it is a 'serpent' type of trailer, but more of a intestinal 'tape worm'... I scraped off little bits of gel coat from time to time and I want to reapply gel coat. Fill the little divots and sand them off. But, how do you sand the leading edge? These divots were probably no more than about 50 mm long for the largest and no more than about 10 mm high, again for the largest. Others are smaller. And, they are right on the nose of the leading edges. I've begun the work with some gel coat and I've sanded it down, but wondering what the 'right' way would be. What size sanding block to use? I'm using a milled piece of wood that measures about 75mm wide by 15 mm thick by about 450 mm long and wrapping a sheet of sanding paper around it. My sanding movements have been parallel with the leading edge, trying to keep the sand paper right over the gel coat which 'stands proud' above the surrounding areas. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Ray Lovinggood Carrboro, North Carolina, USA |
#6
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What, if anything, do you do about matching the shade of the existing
surface? Tony V. http://home.comcast.net/~verhulst/SOARING |
#7
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Hopefully, basic white without tints.
Gels and Imron may discolor with age and environment. I had an Imron painted Open Cirrus and tried very hard to match and sought 7 different opinions before ordering, using the factory color charts. Under overcast and blue sky and fluorescent lighting there was some divergence between a light gray tint and a light blue tint. I went with the predominently female opinions, since color vision deficiency is more generally a male trait. It was a bit blue once applied, the gray may have worked better. However, I had to order a minimum amount and when the person I sold my final share to damaged the glider, the fuselage was re-sprayed with the remainder, so it finally matched. Frank Whiteley "Tony Verhulst" wrote in message news:ld8vd.227573$HA.7445@attbi_s01... What, if anything, do you do about matching the shade of the existing surface? Tony V. http://home.comcast.net/~verhulst/SOARING |
#8
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Tony,
That's the LEAST of my worries. :-) Ray At 04:30 13 December 2004, Tony Verhulst wrote: What, if anything, do you do about matching the shade of the existing surface? Tony V. http://home.comcast.net/~verhulst/SOARING |
#9
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OK everyone, take a deep breath before responding how stupid my approach
is... I am fully aware of the potential damage that _could_ occur. One method that I have used successfully doing similar things to my wings is to use a _clean_ mill ******* file. I know, I know.... sounds like heresy to lay a file on your wing but if you lay it flat, parallel to the leading edge, it is possible to "file" down the proud portion of the gelcoat without gouging into or scratching the existing gelcoat. The file rides smoothly over the existing gelcoat but takes off the excess new gelcoat. It takes a light sensitive touch but makes very quick work of the job because the teeth of the file only catches on the raised replacement gel coat. Try at your own risk!!! Larry Goddard "01" USA Ray Lovinggood wrote: Help. I want to repair some self-inflicted wounds on the leading edges of the wings on my LS1-d. The wounds were created when getting the wings out from and/or putting them back into the definintely non-Cobra/Komet trailer. While not a Cobra, it is a 'serpent' type of trailer, but more of a intestinal 'tape worm'... I scraped off little bits of gel coat from time to time and I want to reapply gel coat. Fill the little divots and sand them off. But, how do you sand the leading edge? These divots were probably no more than about 50 mm long for the largest and no more than about 10 mm high, again for the largest. Others are smaller. And, they are right on the nose of the leading edges. I've begun the work with some gel coat and I've sanded it down, but wondering what the 'right' way would be. What size sanding block to use? I'm using a milled piece of wood that measures about 75mm wide by 15 mm thick by about 450 mm long and wrapping a sheet of sanding paper around it. My sanding movements have been parallel with the leading edge, trying to keep the sand paper right over the gel coat which 'stands proud' above the surrounding areas. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Ray Lovinggood Carrboro, North Carolina, USA |
#10
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Actually that's a very good idea, Larry
We did just that when the repair shop was open ('76 to '96) + Scrub with acetone to remove wax and crud. + Sand edges with 600 to remove oxidized gelcoat (or a yellow ring will be trapped at the edge of your repair) + Mask off and brush on several coats of gelcoat. Use heat gun to make it dry faster (hair dryer works) + Remove high spots with a file, this works best on straight sections, like leading edges. + Wet sand with a block (600 & 800) + Buff out with a wool pad and liquid buffing compound. We called the above, 'Dings & Things' Every annual came with a request to fix this ding and take a look at --------------------- Best if a reasonably clever owner does this on his own. Happy, Happy to all on ras, JJ At 06:30 22 December 2004, Larry Goddard wrote: OK everyone, take a deep breath before responding how stupid my approach is... I am fully aware of the potential damage that _could_ occur. One method that I have used successfully doing similar things to my wings is to use a _clean_ mill ******* file. I know, I know.... sounds like heresy to lay a file on your wing but if you lay it flat, parallel to the leading edge, it is possible to 'file' down the proud portion of the gelcoat without gouging into or scratching the existing gelcoat. The file rides smoothly over the existing gelcoat but takes off the excess new gelcoat. It takes a light sensitive touch but makes very quick work of the job because the teeth of the file only catches on the raised replacement gel coat. Try at your own risk!!! Larry Goddard '01' USA Ray Lovinggood wrote: Help. I want to repair some self-inflicted wounds on the leading edges of the wings on my LS1-d. The wounds were created when getting the wings out from and/or putting them back into the definintely non-Cobra/Komet trailer. While not a Cobra, it is a 'serpent' type of trailer, but more of a intestinal 'tape worm'... I scraped off little bits of gel coat from time to time and I want to reapply gel coat. Fill the little divots and sand them off. But, how do you sand the leading edge? These divots were probably no more than about 50 mm long for the largest and no more than about 10 mm high, again for the largest. Others are smaller. And, they are right on the nose of the leading edges. I've begun the work with some gel coat and I've sanded it down, but wondering what the 'right' way would be. What size sanding block to use? I'm using a milled piece of wood that measures about 75mm wide by 15 mm thick by about 450 mm long and wrapping a sheet of sanding paper around it. My sanding movements have been parallel with the leading edge, trying to keep the sand paper right over the gel coat which 'stands proud' above the surrounding areas. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Ray Lovinggood Carrboro, North Carolina, USA |
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