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#1
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pushrod tube leak
Is there any method of sealing an engine-side leaking pushrod tube without
removing the rocker and loosing the head? Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive car with those split and bolted types... |
#2
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pushrod tube leak
Loosing the head?
Thinking through this in my head, I believe the steps (chime in if I've missed something) would be to: pull the top spark plug, put that cylinder at TDC, push the rocker arm pin out far enough to remove the rocker arm, remove the shroud tube retaining clip, pull the tube and push rod out through the rocker box, inspect both the tube and the pushrod, insert pushrod and tube back through rocker box, lightly apply Parker O ring lube and replace the engine side seal with new (it's tapered, one directional), lightly apply Parker O ring lube and replace the rocker box side "O" ring with new, press tube into place, secure with retaining clip and new securing tab install rocker arm replace rocker box cover gasket torque rocker box cover screws, 50 in/lbs sticks in my head but I may be wrong. reinstall top spark plug Jim "Dick" wrote in message news:fTKOi.8868$C2.3735@trnddc02... Is there any method of sealing an engine-side leaking pushrod tube without removing the rocker and loosing the head? Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive car with those split and bolted types... |
#3
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pushrod tube leak
Dick wrote: Is there any method of sealing an engine-side leaking pushrod tube without removing the rocker and loosing the head? Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive car with those split and bolted types... You don't have to "loose" the head. You do have to take the valve cover off and remove the pushrod. Any mechanic worthy of the name has a tool, usually homemade, that compresses and holds the spring so you can insert a new pushrod tube seal. This seal will have the mechanics secret it won't leak any more goop that he applies to it. I used to have some leaky pushrod tubes but no more. |
#4
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pushrod tube leak
"Dick" wrote in message news:fTKOi.8868$C2.3735@trnddc02... Is there any method of sealing an engine-side leaking pushrod tube without removing the rocker and loosing the head? Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive car with those split and bolted types... It would be helpful to know the type of engine, some engines (Cont) have the pushrod tube swedged into the head. |
#5
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pushrod tube leak
Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive car with those split and bolted types... It would be helpful to know the type of engine, some engines (Cont) have the pushrod tube swedged into the head. I think Real Gasket makes a kit to replace the Continental pushrod tubes with removable tubes. If you do pull a small Continental cylinder to replace the pushrod seal then there's that AD to dye check the rocker arm bosses for cracks-------- Cheers: Paul N1431A KPLU |
#6
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pushrod tube leak
The engine is a C85 and somebody at field said it had swaged tubes...I
haven't looked yet but how can swaged tubes be removed? Sometimes I get confused when asking before looking G. Thanks. "John Kunkel" wrote in message . .. "Dick" wrote in message news:fTKOi.8868$C2.3735@trnddc02... Is there any method of sealing an engine-side leaking pushrod tube without removing the rocker and loosing the head? Was thinking something like replacing an axle boot on a front wheel drive car with those split and bolted types... It would be helpful to know the type of engine, some engines (Cont) have the pushrod tube swedged into the head. |
#7
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pushrod tube leak
"Dick" wrote in message news:_a3Pi.4046$ln.2730@trnddc07... The engine is a C85 and somebody at field said it had swaged tubes...I haven't looked yet but how can swaged tubes be removed? Sometimes I get confused when asking before looking G. Thanks. "John Kunkel" wrote in message . .. http://www.realgaskets.com/files/hor...tm#continental |
#8
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pushrod tube leak
On Oct 10, 9:52 am, "Tri-Pacer" wrote:
"Dick" wrote in message news:_a3Pi.4046$ln.2730@trnddc07... The engine is a C85 and somebody at field said it had swaged tubes...I haven't looked yet but how can swaged tubes be removed? Sometimes I get confused when asking before looking G. Thanks. "John Kunkel" wrote in message ... http://www.realgaskets.com/files/hor...tm#continental On a C-85, I once fixed a leaky lower boot by taking off the retaining rings and massaging the boot with a silicon lubricant, then slipping the boot back on. The engine was relatively new and I think the boot had been caught somehow on the original assembly. Did not require any disassembly, but was a bear to get to!! Ercoupe. YMMV. Bill Hale |
#9
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pushrod tube leak
On Oct 10, 12:39 pm, "
wrote: On Oct 10, 9:52 am, "Tri-Pacer" wrote: "Dick" wrote in message news:_a3Pi.4046$ln.2730@trnddc07... The engine is a C85 and somebody at field said it had swaged tubes...I haven't looked yet but how can swaged tubes be removed? Sometimes I get confused when asking before looking G. Thanks. "John Kunkel" wrote in message ... http://www.realgaskets.com/files/hor...tm#continental On a C-85, I once fixed a leaky lower boot by taking off the retaining rings and massaging the boot with a silicon lubricant, then slipping the boot back on. The engine was relatively new and I think the boot had been caught somehow on the original assembly. Did not require any disassembly, but was a bear to get to!! Ercoupe. YMMV. Bill Hale The only way to replace that boot (and they're cheap) is to pull the rockers and rods out and take the cylinder nuts off, back the jug off and replace them. But if you do all that, you may as well pull the jug right off and replace the cylinder base seal as well (also cheap), because they harden and shrink and leak, too. You will need spring clamp pliers to remove and reinstall the boot clamps. Hard to find, those things, and without them you risk insanity. The upper end of the tube, the swaged end, will often leak. This can be fixed in place by removing the rocker cover, squirting some sharp solvent like lacquer thinner or brake and parts cleaner or contact cleaner into the joint, both sides, and using air to blow it out. Do this a few times until you are sure the joint is completely free of oil. Don't use Varsol or any other slow-drying solvent. After it's clean, use a wicking grade of Loctite (290) or a competitive equivalent and apply it to the joint. It will wick in quickly. Apply enough that the joint won't take any more. Leave it undisturbed for a few hours to set, and put the covers back on. Don't try to accelerate it by warming it with a torch; fumes from the cleaning fluid might be inside the tube and crankcase now and make thing interesting. If you have to warm it, use a heat gun. And don't get it too warm or the Loctite will run out. Don't let Loctite run into the tube itself. Pieces of hardened Loctite have no business floating around inside the case. Dan |
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