Quick - what's to look out for...

What should a Cessna / Piper / Commander driver look out for on the original
'47 BE35 (and I don't mean performance wise)? Where are some of the corners
to be avoided? What special attention needs to be paid to the airframe? I'm
looking at the ABS site now, but could use some additional input.

--
Jim Carter
Rogers, Arkansas

I saw one get "flipped" by an unscrupulous acquaintance about a decade ago.
I don't think he realized how bad it was until he dug into the project. And
he was an A&P.

This airplane had a rotten wiring harness (the original cloth covered
wires). It had corrosion through some of the magnesium surfaces (a little
bondo and paint fixed that right up). It also had a fair amount of
corrosion elsewhere, had an engine the guy frankensteined together, and had
several other firewall forward issues that were fixed in the cheapest baling
wire and duct tape manner possible. The one good thing he did was to
replace some of the attach fittings for the fixed portion of the V tail.
Lots of corrosion there.

Based on what I saw with that airplane, you need to make sure the wiring had
been replaced. I'd check the magnesium surfaces VERY closely. If they have
been painted recently, I'd walk away. Also, I'd check the stabilizer attach
fittings very carefully.

And I'd do a heck of a pre-buy inspection beyond that.

Also, I'd make sure the airplane hadn't been a hangar queen or ramp queen
for the last decade. Sitting out on the ramp and not flying much, if any,
probably tells you that an airplane probably hasn't seen much TLC recently.

KB



"Jim Carter" wrote in message
t...
What should a Cessna / Piper / Commander driver look out for on the
original '47 BE35 (and I don't mean performance wise)? Where are some of
the corners to be avoided? What special attention needs to be paid to the
airframe? I'm looking at the ABS site now, but could use some additional
input.

--
Jim Carter
Rogers, Arkansas

In article ,
"Jim Carter" wrote:

What should a Cessna / Piper / Commander driver look out for on the original
'47 BE35 (and I don't mean performance wise)? Where are some of the corners
to be avoided? What special attention needs to be paid to the airframe? I'm
looking at the ABS site now, but could use some additional input.

1. The original, "straight 35" had a welded-tube center section, which
needs regular Zyglo or magnetic inspection. The later A-35s and up had a
sheet metal center section.

2. The magnesium ailerons, flaps and ruddervators are prone to corrosion
and need special care when refinishing.

3. It is getting hard (and expensive) to find parts for the E-185 (and
E-225) Continentals.

4. The original Beech electric prop is very expensive to overhaul. Parts
are made of unobtanium.

Jim Carter wrote:
What should a Cessna / Piper / Commander driver look out for on the original
'47 BE35 (and I don't mean performance wise)? Where are some of the corners
to be avoided? What special attention needs to be paid to the airframe? I'm
looking at the ABS site now, but could use some additional input.

Kyles comments were pretty good. Nearly 60 year old wiring is never good.
Corrosion is always a problem.

The question is how original is it and exactly how early is it? The 35 model
went through a log of changes early on.

Does it have the tube trussed center section (first several hundred
serial numbers)? If so has it been x-rayed recently (as required by AD)?

What condition (corrosion) are the magnesium control surfaces. The ailerons
and (I think) flaps were originall magnesium but reskinning in aluminum
is approved and commonly done. Ruddervators have always been magnesium.
The VERY early ones supposidly had fabric ailerons, but I think any
still flying have probably gone to aluminum skins.

The E series engine is a bit of orphan, although getting a rebuild is
still possible. Oil leaks from around the accessory case are not unusual
(and not usually indictative of a problem either).

The landing gear is pretty stout, but is intolerant of bad maintenance.
Folks who know recommend changing the various rod ends every 4000 hours
or so. Gear motors of this vintage are slow, but tough (replaced my
original just last month after 58 years of service). Be sure to check
your brake lines. The ones under the pilots pedals especially as they
are really hard to change and they tend to get neglected unless they
start leaking.

What prop has it got? The Beech electric prop is a great fit for the
plane, has no ADs, but spare parts (especially pitch change
bearings) are unobtainable. If its a Hartzel conversion, what is its
AD status?

Indeed what is the AD status of the plane in general. There are a
fair number to comply with. Be sure the 'speed restriction' one is
complied with (balancing ruddervators, skin thickness testing several
other items.

All this sounds bad, but a early 35 in good condition is a joy to
fly. Yup, I'm massively biased.

--
Frank Stutzman
Bonanza N494B "Hula Girl" (1949 A-35 S/N D-1514)
Hood River, OR (soon to be Boise, ID)

Orval Fairbairn wrote:


4. The original Beech electric prop is very expensive to overhaul. Parts
are made of unobtanium.

Also there is an onerous AD on the X and V series Hartzells. You need
to check the inspection status (250-500 hours depending on model) or
if the prop has been upgraded to the MV hub (which terminates the AD).

Simple answer: You must be willing to become an expert at taking
care of an airplane like this. No just "taking it in."

Given that, it can be an excellent choice.

If U buy one that needs a lot of work, it will absolutely break
you.

Bill Hale BPPP



On May 9, 7:32 pm, "Jim Carter" wrote:
What should a Cessna / Piper / Commander driver look out for on the original
'47 BE35 (and I don't mean performance wise)? Where are some of the corners
to be avoided? What special attention needs to be paid to the airframe? I'm
looking at the ABS site now, but could use some additional input.

--
Jim Carter
Rogers, Arkansas