"COLIN LAMB"
thlink.net:

Question: Does the cedar strip technique you mention use multiple
layers of veneer? Presumably you need a form to wrap this around. Does
it have to be solid or can you just use formers, say, every 9 inches
or so? How do you clamp to get a good bond between layers?

Response: Some of the cedar strip boats that I built were made from
1" x 6" cedar planks, which means they were about 3/4" thick. Then I
ripped those planks on a saw (table saw, band saw or radial arm saw -
whatever is handy). This will give you long strips that are about 3/4"
wide and 1/4" thick. Cedar is used because it bends easily, looks good
and is light. Stations are built conforming to the curved shape you
want. Each station is about 12" to 16" apart. Wax paper or tape are
put over the plywood forms. The first strip is installed, and
following strips are glued adjacent to the first step. The strips are
stapled onto each form. Alignment between stations can be assured by
clamps over the strips you are gluing. The glue does not matter,
becase no strength comes from it. You can butt joint each piece.
Although some perfectionists angle the edges of the strips going
around a curve, it is not necessary. If there is a slight opening,
epoxy will seep in and make the structure stronger. The cedar simply
replaces foam, and the strength comes from the layers of cloth and
epoxy resin. Carbon fiber is stronger and lighter, but would cover up
the beautiful cedar strip finish, but could be used on the inside.
Obviously, the application and strength of the epoxy will control the
strength of the overall structure, but it can be quite high. The
strength requirements for the fuselage of something like a Bowlus
would be quite low - but there would obviously need to be some method
of attaching the wings to the fuselage and spreading out the stress of
the lifting point.

However, the pod itself could be created similar to a cedar strip
kayak. My 17 foot cedar strip kayak weighs about 50 pounds and I made
no effort to save weight.

I'm pretty sure that the process would be to heavy for the strength it
would provide, unless it were modified to provide several very thin
crossing layers, all of which woul have to be tightly glued to each other
to have any real strenght.
But an idea has just popped into my so-called mind..
If I were to make three mold of each side freehand over a male mold, each
90 deg to the last, and then take them and stack them over the same mold
and vacuum bag the whole lot together....

Hmm.


One other process, which could be used is a process developed for the
HK-1 Hughes "Spruce Goose" It is built of laminated birch. As I
understand the process, the it was plywood made in the shape required
for the aircraft and known as Duramold. The aircraft companies made a
number of small boats using the same process to perfect it. The
Evergreen museum no doubt has some information on the process.

This isn't to far off the original method of manufacture for the Baby as i
understand it.


The inventive can replace the Molt Taylor Aerocar of yesteryear with a
Glider/kayak. When making an outlanding, simply land by a lake ro
river, remove and store the wings and tail, and paddle home.


Would have come in handy at least once in my gliding career when I left a
waterline on a 2-33!