An old timer told me how to start that thing about three years ago.
His name is Paul Muskat and he's an old examiner who retired many
years ago, plus he's an A & P. He passed this on to me and I swear to
God it's the answer to the starting problems I had on the RV-6. In
fact I'm not so sure I needed to buy and instal that Lightspeed
ignition after I changed the way I started--due to Paul. Here's what
he said:

Lightspeed ignition, NOT required, *IF* you follow the steps
that were recommended to you below.

Prime this thing with about 4 pumps of the prime plunger. Of course
wait until it stops wheezing each time so you know you are getting a
good shot of fuel.

MAKE SURE YOUR MAG SWITCHES ARE OFF.

Yep - absolutely key part of the process.

Go around and pull that O-320 through all four cylinders

Not necessary, *IF* you can crank with... MAGS OFF.

Then get in and crank it.

I did that this morning and it hit on the first cylinder.

BWB

Yep.
What was happening...
you were *FROSTING* the sparkplugs.

Once ICED...
Ya either wait for the ice to melt or remove it.

If you don't believe it....
pull a plug when the engine absolutely won't start.
Check for ICE shorting across the electrodes!
It will be there in mass quantities !!!!!!

I learned this the hard way, as a 16 year old teenager.
I had a car that would not start below 32 degrees.
Ditto for a Cessna 175.
Above 32, both would always start on the first lick.

Below 32 degrees...
Both engines required FUEL to be in the cylinders BEFORE
turning on the ignition or the hot spark would cause ICE
to form across the sparkplug electrodes.

In SOME, but not all engines...
The hot spark causes the cold moist air WITHOUT FUEL
in the cylinder to CONDENSE across the electrodes as
ice... if it's 32 or colder. Once shorted in this manner,
your screwed until it warms up or you remove the ice.

Trust me on this one. g


Barnyard BOb -- believe it or not