Most A&P's would think very poorly of any Cherry rivet used where a solid
rivet is just as easily installed. My experience has been that solid rivets
perform far better than any blind rivet if installed correctly. Consider
buying the tools, practicing, and using solid rivets.
Where I work, much of the sheetmetal jobs are replkacing working Cherry Max
or Cherry rivets that have started to work loose. They should only be used
where the back side is not accessible.
"mhorowit" wrote in message
...
I have to replace the trailing edge end of a stamped aluminum rib from
a '47 Tcraft. I've cut away the corroded portion, bent metal to
replace that part and would like to use Cherry "N" rivets to hold it
in place.

I have some questions regarding what spec to look for when ordering.
A. Rivet Material: 5052 Aluminum or 5056 - does it make any
difference for this old a rib?
B. Mandrel Material: Aluminum or steel - am I correct that
dissimilar metals could cause a problem and I should stick with
aluminum? In that case why make a steel mandrel?

Thanks in Advance - Mike