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#1
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All of which is much less likely if you've disconnected the ground first.
That way, you'll have to hit both battery terminals simultaneously to experience John's scenario. Jon "John_F" wrote in message ... Well lets say you are a hot shot mechanic and disconnect the hot side of the battery first with your handy dandy metallic wrench. Some sweet young thing walks by and distracts you for an instant and the wrench handle contacts the battery box or some other part of the airframe. There will be a big flash as a couple of thousand amps flows in the wrench handle. A hole will appear in the aluminum airframe or battery box where the wrench contacted it . This is bad but what happens next is worse. The flash is next to a battery vent cap and the O2 and H2 gas inside the battery ignite and blow the top off of the battery spraying battery acid in your eyes and all over the airplane. Need I say more? John |
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#2
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On Tue, 07 Dec 2004 01:00:19 GMT, "Jon Woellhaf"
wrote: All of which is much less likely if you've disconnected the ground first. That way, you'll have to hit both battery terminals simultaneously to experience John's scenario. Jon Yep. Got it. I missed the point and thought he was talking about the alternator, not the battery. Thanks for the reply. z |
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#3
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John_F wrote:
Well lets say you are a hot shot mechanic and disconnect the hot side of the battery first with your handy dandy metallic wrench. Some sweet young thing walks by and distracts you for an instant and the wrench handle contacts the battery box or some other part of the airframe. There will be a big flash as a couple of thousand amps flows in the wrench handle. A hole will appear in the aluminum airframe or battery box where the wrench contacted it . This is bad but what happens next is worse. The flash is next to a battery vent cap and the O2 and H2 gas inside the battery ignite and blow the top off of the battery spraying battery acid in your eyes and all over the airplane. Need I say more? John On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 16:48:03 GMT, zatatime wrote: On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 06:15:07 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher wrote: Or pull the alternator [disconnect the battery ground FIRST, please..] Why is this important? What will happen if you don't disconnect the ground first? Also thanks for the link on understanding the alternator! z It happens all the time. Most people have no appreciation for how much energy you get out of a shorted battery. I know of two neighbors in the block who've blown up their car batteries. I taught generator (as in skid mounted power) repair for a while in the Army and got real tired of hauling nimrods who ignored the warning down to the aid station and filling out accident paperwork. A good friend who knows better but thought he could get away with a quickie on his motorcyle welded his watch band across the battery and frame and got a 3rd degree burn half way around his wrist. A guy my wife works with was out of work for a week to heal after a "simple" fix on his car without disconnecting the battery. While I was working in an avionics shop, a newbie melted a hole in the cowl of a Cessna. Battery didn't blow on that one but the hole really ****ed off the owners (shop and A/C). I've got more if anyone isn't convinced by now. -- Jim Pennino Remove -spam-sux to reply. |
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#4
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#5
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zatatime writes:
Thanks for the explanation. I was confused and thought you meant to disconnect the ground from the alternator before the field. I do understand to disconnect the battery negative first and reconnect it last for the reasons you've given. I've been that 'hot shot' before and startled the hell out of me! Luckily nothing serious happened, just a little black spot on the battery box. Fortunately, typical GA starting batteries have limited current capacity; something like http://www.trceng.com/services/coe.htm will turn a 12" Crescent wrench bright orange before you can say "Oh s&*8" If I may indulge you, when disconnecting/reconnecting the terminals at the alternator, is there any particular order, or precautions one should take? With the battery ground off; the order does not matter. What DOES matter is getting each wire back to the correct spot. You may wish to tag them, take a picture, and then remove them. The biggest way to have grief is grounds. The case of the alternator may have a grounding wire. (I'd hope so, but...) The VR will be on the firewall and typically should be grounded via its mounting bolts. But corroded/dirty ground connections are more common than ants at a picnic. Shine things up bright before reassembling. Be sure there are star lockwashers to bite into the joining surfaces. It's also possible there are insulating washers/spaces behind certain bolts. Don't lose them or mix up where they go. -- A host is a host from coast to & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433 |
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#6
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David Lesher wrote: Jonathan Goodish writes: I know that this is another frequent topic, but I'm hoping that someone can help narrow this down for me. I have a rebuilt Chrysler alternator (from Electrosystems) on my Cherokee that was installed about 400 hours ago. However, I am experiencing alternator whine that varies with engine speed, but which disappears completely when I turn off the alternator side of the master switch. In addition, increasing electrical load seems to make it worse. You could have lost a diode. There are 6 main diodes, usually molded into a unit. If you have a friend with a portable oscilloscope, it's an easy test: load the alternator and look at the waveform. You'll see the chunk missing as compared to http://www.medar.com/images/3phase5.gif Or pull the alternator [disconnect the battery ground FIRST, please..] and take it to an alternator shop. [NOT a chain auto parts store who has an alleged tester.] They should be able to spin-test it. AFAIK, having a test done by a non-FAA-anointed shop would be legal. (Having them fix it, of course will get you sent to Gitmo..) Alternator noise is often caused by an electrical "ground loop," as the engineers call it, and it's not related to the taildragger groundloop some of us are familiar with. The alternator generates noise even if all the diodes are working, and in some airplanes even if all the filters are in place. If there's a bad ground anywhere in the alternator or power supply circuitry or radio and intercom circuitry, resistance forms at that point and the ground current seeks another path for a portion of the load. If this alternate path happens to be through avionics, the noise will be picked up. For example, if the grounding of the engine mount is imperfect, and the alternator has no separate ground wire from it to the firewall, some of the alternator's noisy current might seek a path through, say, the electric oil temperature wire and through the gauge to the panel. Now we have electrical noise through the panel to the rest of the airframe, and radios grounded to various points of the panel, and since gound connections between sections of the panel might be old and dirty we could get voltage drops between those points and the radios pick them up. I have also seen erratic oil temperature readings caused by the spurious current. That's my take on it anyway, and I have managed to eliminate noise on occasion by cleaning all the ground connections I can find and bridging suspect panel sections with ground wires to eliminate the voltage drops. If you have a portable intercom, try making sure it's NOT grounded except for its power supply. I've seen noise picked up as a result of different potentials between the power line ground and a screw that was holding the intercom to the pedestal. Velcro fixed that one. Some alternator noise comes from the field. There is magnetic interaction with the stator when the thing is working, and noise can come back up the alternator field line into the bus. Many alternators have a filter capacitor on the field terminal. Dan |
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#7
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